I have a 2006 Mitsubishi Endeavor with 187k miles. It is fwd with the 3.8L V6. Recommended viscosity is 5w-20. The last oil change I used pennzoil platinum 0w-20 for the winter and 10 min short trips. However, it has leaked/burned a quart in 5k miles. Also, it is pretty noisy. Should I step up to PP 5w-30 or 0w-40?
Mitsubishi Endeaver 3.8 V6 oil type
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Originally Posted By: ZraHamilton
I have a 2006 Mitsubishi Endeavor with 187k miles. It is fwd with the 3.8L V6. Recommended viscosity is 5w-20. The last oil change I used pennzoil platinum 0w-20 for the winter and 10 min short trips. However, it has leaked/burned a quart in 5k miles. Also, it is pretty noisy. Should I step up to PP 5w-30 or 0w-40?
Your noise could very well be a collapsing timing belt tensioner. Especially cold starting. They collapse while sitting not running. Very common on that engine especially with higher mileage. And I'm betting the valve covers are your leak. Probably oil in the spark plug tubes as well. Those valve cover gaskets get so hard I've had to burn them out with a torch when replacing them.
Oh and 0W-20 is fine for your application.
I have a 2006 Mitsubishi Endeavor with 187k miles. It is fwd with the 3.8L V6. Recommended viscosity is 5w-20. The last oil change I used pennzoil platinum 0w-20 for the winter and 10 min short trips. However, it has leaked/burned a quart in 5k miles. Also, it is pretty noisy. Should I step up to PP 5w-30 or 0w-40?
Your noise could very well be a collapsing timing belt tensioner. Especially cold starting. They collapse while sitting not running. Very common on that engine especially with higher mileage. And I'm betting the valve covers are your leak. Probably oil in the spark plug tubes as well. Those valve cover gaskets get so hard I've had to burn them out with a torch when replacing them.
Oh and 0W-20 is fine for your application.
No. Give it time. What oil did you use previously? Switching brands sometimes causes consumption. You can use 0w20 year around. Id wait til the end of a 2nd or 3rd oil change before passing judgment. I personally prefer M1 0w20 AFE or PUP 0w20. Not to say anything wrong with PP. You are basing your move to thicker oil on your perceived notion of how your car sounds and that it has consumed a quart.
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PP 0w20 was junk in our Subaru - burned a ton and was noisy. It just a synthesized paraffin not a PAO or POA.
My experience with Mitsu v6 is to use a 5w30 augmented with a qt or 10w40. That was the 3 litre in my Dodge R/t. I would mechanically knock with an ILSAC 5w30 alone. Smooth as "insert simile" with the mixture. Back then I was mixing Mobil Clean 5000 "dino" to good effect.
My experience with Mitsu v6 is to use a 5w30 augmented with a qt or 10w40. That was the 3 litre in my Dodge R/t. I would mechanically knock with an ILSAC 5w30 alone. Smooth as "insert simile" with the mixture. Back then I was mixing Mobil Clean 5000 "dino" to good effect.
Originally Posted By: 69Torino
Originally Posted By: ZraHamilton
I have a 2006 Mitsubishi Endeavor with 187k miles. It is fwd with the 3.8L V6. Recommended viscosity is 5w-20. The last oil change I used pennzoil platinum 0w-20 for the winter and 10 min short trips. However, it has leaked/burned a quart in 5k miles. Also, it is pretty noisy. Should I step up to PP 5w-30 or 0w-40?
Your noise could very well be a collapsing timing belt tensioner. Especially cold starting. They collapse while sitting not running. Very common on that engine especially with higher mileage. And I'm betting the valve covers are your leak. Probably oil in the spark plug tubes as well. Those valve cover gaskets get so hard I've had to burn them out with a torch when replacing them.
Oh and 0W-20 is fine for your application.
1st response nailed it.I had both just as described.
Originally Posted By: ZraHamilton
I have a 2006 Mitsubishi Endeavor with 187k miles. It is fwd with the 3.8L V6. Recommended viscosity is 5w-20. The last oil change I used pennzoil platinum 0w-20 for the winter and 10 min short trips. However, it has leaked/burned a quart in 5k miles. Also, it is pretty noisy. Should I step up to PP 5w-30 or 0w-40?
Your noise could very well be a collapsing timing belt tensioner. Especially cold starting. They collapse while sitting not running. Very common on that engine especially with higher mileage. And I'm betting the valve covers are your leak. Probably oil in the spark plug tubes as well. Those valve cover gaskets get so hard I've had to burn them out with a torch when replacing them.
Oh and 0W-20 is fine for your application.
1st response nailed it.I had both just as described.
Thanks for the responses. I will try PP HM 0W-20 next change and see if that helps.
ARCOgraphite, PP is not a paraffin, it is a synthesized hydrocarbon, just like PAOs are synthesized hydrocarbons.
0W20 IdeMitsu oil! Has a lot of moly & boron. What does the OM state about heavier oils?
I'm using Redline oil in my Montero for the first time ever. Engine is smooth and quiet, but purely anecdotal of course.
Respectfully,
Pajero!
I'm using Redline oil in my Montero for the first time ever. Engine is smooth and quiet, but purely anecdotal of course.
Respectfully,
Pajero!
Some brand new cars use more than 1qt over 5000 miles. I wouldn't be so worried.
Anyway, sometimes the PCV valve and hoses fail, and it leads to excessive oil consumption. You should really get the PCV valve from the dealer. Don't rely on the test where you shake the old PCV valve and hear if it clicks. The spring may get weak and that would cause the excess oil consumption.
Anyway, sometimes the PCV valve and hoses fail, and it leads to excessive oil consumption. You should really get the PCV valve from the dealer. Don't rely on the test where you shake the old PCV valve and hear if it clicks. The spring may get weak and that would cause the excess oil consumption.
We run them on 5W-30 A3/B4 here, MNZ's recommendation, but the oil sites here say the same. Mitsubishi themselves don't really care and recommend a wide range of oils. By the time they were making the 3.8 Mitsubishi had this engine pretty sorted, and they had few problems. I have seen a faulty auto cambelt tensioner, but it was after market, OE don't give any problems.
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Originally Posted By: ZraHamilton
ARCOgraphite, PP is not a paraffin, it is a synthesized hydrocarbon, just like PAOs are synthesized hydrocarbons.
Paraffin is a hydrocarbon.
Post the chemical structure and we will discuss. Lets pull in MoleKule to add credence.
ARCOgraphite, PP is not a paraffin, it is a synthesized hydrocarbon, just like PAOs are synthesized hydrocarbons.
Paraffin is a hydrocarbon.
Post the chemical structure and we will discuss. Lets pull in MoleKule to add credence.
Originally Posted By: ZraHamilton
ARCOgraphite, PP is not a paraffin, it is a synthesized hydrocarbon, just like PAOs are synthesized hydrocarbons.
PAO is paraffinic, along with the Group III oils whether they are synthesized or not.
We aren't back on that whole "sucked out of the ground" thing again, are we?
ARCOgraphite, PP is not a paraffin, it is a synthesized hydrocarbon, just like PAOs are synthesized hydrocarbons.
PAO is paraffinic, along with the Group III oils whether they are synthesized or not.
We aren't back on that whole "sucked out of the ground" thing again, are we?
PAO!
alpha-beta double bonds, Buddy.
Check it out.
alpha-beta double bonds, Buddy.
Check it out.
I only want "natural" oil. Sucked out of the ground only... I don't want any genetically modified oil
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