5v power supply

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I’m installing a Areoforce Interceptor gauge and will be adding a boost sensor to it. The boost sensor uses a separate 12v to 5v power supply converter. They advise to install a 2A inline fuse in the install. I can get a 12v to 5v 2A converter on Amazon for $25 less. Will this work? With what I’m spending on the gauge and sensor $25 may not seem like a substantial savings, but it just ticks me off when companies squeeze that extra money out of you on something that should come with the product. I read there is a way to tap into the ECM for 5v, but I’d rather not do that. Thanks.
 
Since you feel the need to buy the $$$ gauge then the extra $$$ for oem seems foolish ? Don't know what to say.
 
The gauge costs what it does and there are few alternatives. The power supply converter is a $5 part that they mark up to $30.
 
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You can buy a Buck converter off ebay for a little over $1 inc shipping.

This will give you a stabilized power supply that you can set to whatever voltage you wish.

There will also be dedicated voltage conversion chips that are used for the very purpose you need. (About 10 cents each)

eBay Link

I had the same problem when needing a stable 10v power supply for my Gas and Temp gauges on my car
 
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Just make sure there is a 2a fuse on the 12v side, if the converter smokes it won't take something else with it or maybe start a fire.
 
Thanks for the input. Like me, most guys on the Mustang forums are mad at Areoforce. They charge $50 for the sensor and don’t supply anything you need to make it functional so you wind up spending another $50 for their converter and hoses and fittings. I got the power taken care of now I have to go out and get vacuum hose and barbed fitting to go into SC
 
What is your definition of a "Boost Gauge".....One that reads zero at sea level with the engine off?
There should be a MAP PID readout from the OBD.....It just reads "Absolute Pressure", Not "Relative Pressure".
 
cant imagine a gauge needing much current.
might be as simple as a 7805 3 terminal regulator.
costs $0.25
 
Originally Posted By: clinebarger
What is your definition of a "Boost Gauge".....One that reads zero at sea level with the engine off?
There should be a MAP PID readout from the OBD.....It just reads "Absolute Pressure", Not "Relative Pressure".

a boost gauge reads the pressure a supercharger puts out. At idle or partial throttle it will read as a vacuum of around minus 30 pounds as this is the measurement of air being sucked in by the pistons. Under heavy acceleration, my gauge will go up 6 pounds. This is the measurement of air being pumped into the engine by the supercharger. Cars built without S.C. do not have this sensor, so you have to add one yourself. Mine is a aftermarket SC made by Edelbrock.
 
Originally Posted By: LAGA
Originally Posted By: clinebarger
What is your definition of a "Boost Gauge".....One that reads zero at sea level with the engine off?
There should be a MAP PID readout from the OBD.....It just reads "Absolute Pressure", Not "Relative Pressure".

a boost gauge reads the pressure a supercharger puts out. At idle or partial throttle it will read as a vacuum of around minus 30 pounds as this is the measurement of air being sucked in by the pistons. Under heavy acceleration, my gauge will go up 6 pounds. This is the measurement of air being pumped into the engine by the supercharger. Cars built without S.C. do not have this sensor, so you have to add one yourself. Mine is a aftermarket SC made by Edelbrock.



Yes sir, I understand how it works. I think you misunderstand "Absolute" vs "Relative".......Only "Boy Racer" & Diagnostic gauges read relative pressure (My Cobalt has a factory installed "Boy Racer" Vacuum/Boost gauge) So don't take this as me bad mouthing you or your car. I also have a Aeroforce Interceptor in my Camaro.

Relative Vacuum/Boost gauges are set to 0-PSI at sea level which is actually 14.7-PSI Absolute Pressure.

When reading a OBD date stream or logging OBD data......The reading will always be Absolute (PSI or KPA) There is different scaling depending on what MAP sensor your using (1-BAR/2-BAR/3-Bar).

I don't know what year/engine Mustang you have, But I do recall some Fords not having a MAP & relying only on MAF/BARO input for base fueling/VE which I am not crazy about....But that's another topic altogether.

If I were you.....
*Buy a GM 2-BAR MAP Sensor part# 16040609 (Can read over twice the boost your making)
*Your ECM has a VERY stable 5-Volt reference circuit (C-Circuit in Ford speak) The A/C pressure transducer is a good source to piggyback off of....No reason to buy a signal converter/conditioner!!
*Scale the Aeroforce gauge to read the MAP output to your liking.

GM MAP sensor wiring....
Pin A -- Ground, To a GOOD ground (Engine Block/Battery)
Pin B -- Sensor output, To the Analog Input on your Interceptor gauge.
Pin C -- +5 volts, A/C pressure transducer C-Circuit.


GM 2-BAR sensor scaling.....
Relative / Absolute-----------------MAP Output VDC
14.31psi / 29.01psi-----------------4.90V
14.00psi / 28.70psi-----------------4.84V
13.00psi / 27.70psi-----------------4.67V
12.00psi / 26.70psi-----------------4.50V
11.00psi / 25.70psi-----------------4.33V
10.00psi / 24.70psi-----------------4.16V
9.00psi / 23.70psi------------------3.99V
8.00psi / 22.70psi------------------3.82V
6.00psi / 20.70psi------------------3.47V
4.00psi / 18.70psi------------------3.13V
2.00psi / 16.70psi------------------2.79V
0.00psi / 14.70psi------------------2.45V
5.00inHg / 12.24psi-----------------2.03V
10.00inHg/ 9.78psi------------------1.61V
15.00inHg/ 7.33psi------------------1.19V
20.00inHg/ 4.87psi------------------0.77V
25.00inHg/ 2.41psi------------------0.35V
29.10inHg/ 0.40psi------------------0.02V
 
Originally Posted By: Papa Bear
4.90V at what current? What is the load resistance ?


I guess your talking to me? The current draw is so small that it's not relevant.
 
Originally Posted By: clinebarger
Originally Posted By: Papa Bear
4.90V at what current? What is the load resistance ?


I guess your talking to me? The current draw is so small that it's not relevant.


Then a heavy duty power supply isn't required.
I'm wondering why a cheap 1A Dollar Store 12V to 5V USB supply wouldn't work in this case.
 
Originally Posted By: Carmudgeon
Plenty of 12v to 5v adapter harnesses to hard wire dash cams for
Just cut the USB plug off.


I use 2 with fusebox piggyback connectors (allows 2 fuses into one fuse slot on your fuse board), easy fit and the fuse is easily accessible.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Empty the guts from a car USB cell phone adapter and wrap it with heat shrink, it will give 5V 1A.


yup this. Just because they say use a 2A fuse doesn't mean it'll draw that.... probably the smallest fuse made.

I bet the thing has less going on than a smart phone. Dollar tree has 12-5V converters in USB outlet plugs for phone charging.
 
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