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Engine mounts #4683635
03/03/18 09:47 PM
03/03/18 09:47 PM
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 519
GA
miden851 Offline OP
miden851  Offline OP
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 519
GA
I did my engine mounts today

first, everything went well. I started from transmission mount toward the engine mount; I was thinking to begin with most complicated and go to easier ones; I used ramps. jack and jack stand for support; I did all three before I started to tighten the bolts individually. Once I removed one on the passenger side (clearly the bad guy), I wanted to replace belt tensioner because its access; however, still was pain in b*** as space was tight to work on but I managed in the end after prolonged time. That tensioner drove me nuts today; I was frustrated big time at the time;

That affected my work ability on going forward. Once I was able to align mount on the passenger side, main bolt did not go all all the way down; I tried to do it multiple tmes but in vain. The soul was sticking out above the mount bracket and the bracket was not sitting on the mount rubber. The bolt was sticking out. I continued to play with it but I noticed I used too much force to tight it down. Suddenly treads started to spinn inside of mount. Towards the evening, I tight all bolts at the all three starting with again transmission side. If I had known how was going to be I would have started on the passenger side of the car.

So I drove the car tonight on the local road, it is much quieter than yesterday but on occasion it gets jerky and start to vibrate slightly due to still messed up engine mount that is on the car;

I plan to call on Monday Mazda service department to order the new one $120 again but this time with the brand new center bolt as well.

so my question is how to handle next time the one on the passenger side, what I did wrong and what would you do differently please

I Thank You for all your advice!

Some images








Last edited by miden851; 03/03/18 10:00 PM.

2008 Mazda6i GT; @202K miles
2016 Honda CR-V EX-L; @33K miles
Re: Engine mounts [Re: miden851] #4683668
03/03/18 10:41 PM
03/03/18 10:41 PM
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 3,255
NJ
Leo99 Offline
Leo99  Offline
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 3,255
NJ
The engine mounts in my Rav4 look horrible but I'm afraid to mess with them and I'm not paying anyone to mess with them. Good on you for replacing yours!


Without data you're just another person with an opinion. W. E. Deming

2003 Corolla 250,000 miles
2004 Rav4 359,000 miles
2015 Camry 59,000 miles
Re: Engine mounts [Re: miden851] #4683692
03/03/18 11:14 PM
03/03/18 11:14 PM
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 4,604
Taiwan
Ducked Online content
Ducked  Online Content
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 4,604
Taiwan
Originally Posted By: miden851
I did my engine mounts today

what would you do differently please




Don't think you should do what I did differently.

My front one was failing in tension (on Skywing, like MkI/II Charade). Its an awkward dog-leg shape so tricky to substitute bits of tyre etc.

Anyway, I ended up putting superglue on the crack faces as a rather forlorn-hope band-aid.

"Do you expect me to torque?"
"No, Mr Bond, I expect you to die"

When I could'nt keep the crack closed for the glue to stick, I put lots of cable ties around it to keep it in compression, but couldn't keep it aligned properly, so I put a lot more cable ties on and covered them in boot polish (unfortunately I only had white nylon handy) to be a bit less obvious at inspection time.

I doubt the glue is doing anything, but the cable ties havn'y bust yet, and thats about 5 years ago.

Re: Engine mounts [Re: miden851] #4683807
03/04/18 07:58 AM
03/04/18 07:58 AM
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 519
GA
miden851 Offline OP
miden851  Offline OP
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 519
GA
I thank you guys and great story @ducked!

Anyway I wish that I measured the inner depth of the treads on mount so I have all of right parts. Also I think in my case the main inner bolt got deformed over time, almost melted even the bracket that connects to the engine could be bad after 10 years. I think they both are made of aluminum. Now on Monday Iíll call Mazda service and at least ask for a discount and new screw and bracket. I plan to release other 2 mounts a bit that should give me some wiggle room so i can focus on the hydraulicand most expensive mount first.

Also, I moved the engine somewhat more while on the jack support, while I was replacing the belt tensioner now I wish I didnít. Oh well, my whishful thinking!

Last edited by miden851; 03/04/18 08:11 AM.

2008 Mazda6i GT; @202K miles
2016 Honda CR-V EX-L; @33K miles
Re: Engine mounts [Re: miden851] #4683813
03/04/18 08:15 AM
03/04/18 08:15 AM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 33,074
ME
eljefino Offline
eljefino  Offline
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 33,074
ME
I think your issue was that you did it on ramps, and that the engine torqued itself forward or aft by the car rolling against it in "Park".

Perhaps you could, with it NOT on ramps, park it on a very level surface then rock the car back and forth while wiggling that bolt so it drops in. The powertrain should counter-rotate. Watch your fingers!

They also sell "alignment bars" at harbor freight, $3. Pipefitters use them all the time. A spud wrench would also work.

Re: Engine mounts [Re: miden851] #4683823
03/04/18 08:39 AM
03/04/18 08:39 AM
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 519
GA
miden851 Offline OP
miden851  Offline OP
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 519
GA
Thank you for pointing that out @eljefino! I useed ramps for an extra space especially for removing a dog-bone mount from the bottom, plus itís easier on the back. Today Iíll go to a tool store and get me some tools that would eleviate my next job. Also Iíll use spec. For tightening the bolts on mounts but not necessarily for wand that goes to the body of the car.

Original set up



Belt tensioner that didnít need to be replaced that held well after 10years




Last edited by miden851; 03/04/18 08:49 AM.

2008 Mazda6i GT; @202K miles
2016 Honda CR-V EX-L; @33K miles
Re: Engine mounts [Re: miden851] #4683836
03/04/18 08:59 AM
03/04/18 08:59 AM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 33,074
ME
eljefino Offline
eljefino  Offline
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 33,074
ME
You could also set the e-brake and put the trans in neutral. Chock the heck out of the rear wheels while you're at it. One human can supply enough leverage to rotate the engine to line that bolt up.

Re: Engine mounts [Re: miden851] #4683895
03/04/18 10:02 AM
03/04/18 10:02 AM
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 19,910
MA, Mittelfranken.de
Trav Offline
Trav  Offline
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 19,910
MA, Mittelfranken.de
+1 on moving the engine. You need to wiggle the engine forward in neutral till the bolt is in loosely and easy to start the threads by hand. Use a big pry bar, stick it through a frame or control arm behind the mount.
Be careful not to pinch any wires, connectors, hoses or lines. Final tighten all mount bolts with the vehicle level, if its on ramps jack the rear up and support with stands.


ASE L1, Master. Deutsch Meisterbrief.
Re: Engine mounts [Re: miden851] #4683925
03/04/18 10:35 AM
03/04/18 10:35 AM
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 730
NC USA
Roadkingnc Offline
Roadkingnc  Offline
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 730
NC USA
Put the jack on the oil pan with the wheels on the ground to support the engine.
then you can align the mount easily. It looks like you have cross threaded the bolt,
A thread chaser or tap should repair the threads in the mount.
there is a slot on top of the mount that fits in the aluminum piece. When they are aligned and together
you can tighten the bolt.

Re: Engine mounts [Re: miden851] #4683926
03/04/18 10:36 AM
03/04/18 10:36 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,074
Coastal South Carolina
edwardh1 Offline
edwardh1  Offline
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,074
Coastal South Carolina
is an exhaust pipe near the mount?


These products are all new every year?? They are a revolution!!! Razor blades, mens shirts, TVs, wiper blades, gutter guards, hearing aids... according to the ads. But also all new last year
Re: Engine mounts [Re: Roadkingnc] #4684209
03/04/18 04:12 PM
03/04/18 04:12 PM
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 519
GA
miden851 Offline OP
miden851  Offline OP
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 519
GA
Originally Posted By: Roadkingnc
Put the jack on the oil pan with the wheels on the ground to support the engine.
then you can align the mount easily. It looks like you have cross threaded the bolt,
A thread chaser or tap should repair the threads in the mount.
there is a slot on top of the mount that fits in the aluminum piece. When they are aligned and together
you can tighten the bolt.


It actually aligned but the gap below and above the bracket stayed; as I tried to tighten the main bolt, the bold didnít go further than half of the treads, sticking out; at this point I had all the other mounts tight; boggling for sure


2008 Mazda6i GT; @202K miles
2016 Honda CR-V EX-L; @33K miles
Re: Engine mounts [Re: miden851] #4684226
03/04/18 04:41 PM
03/04/18 04:41 PM
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 519
GA
miden851 Offline OP
miden851  Offline OP
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 519
GA
I like the idea of rolling car back and forth and keeping it in neutral while adjusting/aligning mounts!

I Thank for all great advice here!


2008 Mazda6i GT; @202K miles
2016 Honda CR-V EX-L; @33K miles
Re: Engine mounts [Re: edwardh1] #4685924
03/06/18 07:30 AM
03/06/18 07:30 AM
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 519
GA
miden851 Offline OP
miden851  Offline OP
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 519
GA
Originally Posted By: edwardh1
is an exhaust pipe near the mount?


I donít why that matters but the busted mount is about 1í1/2Ē away from the exhaust branch;

As an update, the dealer wonít warrant anything on mounts they sent to me and the main bolt has been discontinued by Mazda; Iím in the process of ordering the new passenger mount as I look for ways to find appropriate bolt replacement just in case;
Should I say, the car sure feels like a different animal now versus with old mounts, so my work is already paying off.




Last edited by miden851; 03/06/18 07:36 AM.

2008 Mazda6i GT; @202K miles
2016 Honda CR-V EX-L; @33K miles
Re: Engine mounts [Re: miden851] #4685943
03/06/18 08:04 AM
03/06/18 08:04 AM
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 19,910
MA, Mittelfranken.de
Trav Offline
Trav  Offline
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 19,910
MA, Mittelfranken.de
Can you get the bolt out? This may be repairable from what I see in the other pictures. Finding a hardened flange bolt is no problem Ace hardware has them in metric.

Last edited by Trav; 03/06/18 08:09 AM.

ASE L1, Master. Deutsch Meisterbrief.
Re: Engine mounts [Re: miden851] #4686001
03/06/18 09:10 AM
03/06/18 09:10 AM
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 519
GA
miden851 Offline OP
miden851  Offline OP
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 519
GA
I Thank You for sticking with me on this @Trav

I need a car so Iím not willing to mess with it till the weekend. I did go to Ace Hardware yesterday just to aquire more information on the bolt but it was in the evening after my work so at least I got some guidance on it there. Also I called several of junk yards over the phone and they donít keep hydraulic mounts as they bust so easily, little less the bolts.

I think I can take it out when needed but Iím aware it wonít be a piece of cake. The engine now sits about an 1Ē higher on the passenger side then it should as Iíve noticed.

Last edited by miden851; 03/06/18 09:20 AM.

2008 Mazda6i GT; @202K miles
2016 Honda CR-V EX-L; @33K miles
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