old cars what coolant

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What are you guys running in say a 1983 Jeep CJ7? Running the 4.2 I-6 engine. Has aluminum rad, copper brass heater core and cast iron block. So basically most all metals here.

I've ran Dex-Cool for 4 years, zero issues. Then ran some Peak Global for 4 years. Again no issues. Ran some Prestone AMAM for a couple. Again nothing to report about. Block and rad is still clean as can be. Now running the original green again. Thought I would put back what came in it.

From what I've read, you get instant protection from the original green formula. Lasts roughly two years. Have to change it more often.

The 5 year/150,000 mile stuff offers "gradual" protection, over an extended period of time. Lacks total initial protection like original green does.

So for old cars, you guys use??
 
I don't have an old car, and I can't say I'll own one any time soon, but I will say this:

If I did buy an older car and needed to do a flush and refill, I would fill with this:

rwt9c9.jpg
 
Ive got green oreilley conventional on my 95 truck.I think I am going to flush it and run G05 when it comes time to replace it.
 
Can somebody explain the benefit of running G05 in a vehicle originally specced for conventional green?
 
I use the stuff in the white jug on the lower shelf.



I don't know what it is, and if I read Trad. Mandarin I probably still wouldn't know.

Its green.

It says its "Radiator Fluid" in English, so it may be made from what squeezes out of old radiators when they crush them.

If you can see anything on that shelf that would be more suitable for a 1986 Daihatsu Skywing (like a Charade) let me know.

Or this shelf



I think SONAX is a known brand so I might try that next time. They don't seem to show any coolant on the website, though, and theres no guarantee that it isn't fake, though it probably isn't
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: dogememe
Can somebody explain the benefit of running G05 in a vehicle originally specced for conventional green?
It's fully compatible, and lasts at least twice as long as green does. I've subbed it in twice, no problems to report (sold '82 300D & GMC 6.2 diesel in my sig).
 
I need to change out the coolant in the '52 Chevy DeLuxe this spring. Going to put a new thermostat and new radiator hoses on it as well.

I'm putting standard conventional green back in it. Why not.
 
Originally Posted By: Ducked
I use the stuff in the white jug on the lower shelf.



I don't know what it is, and if I read Trad. Mandarin I probably still wouldn't know.

Its green.

It says its "Radiator Fluid" in English, so it may be made from what squeezes out of old radiators when they crush them.

If you can see anything on that shelf that would be more suitable for a 1986 Daihatsu Skywing (like a Charade) let me know.

Or this shelf



I think SONAX is a known brand so I might try that next time. They don't seem to show any coolant on the website, though, and theres no guarantee that it isn't fake, though it probably isn't


What's your guys' currency? o_O

Is that Sonax stuff sporting the German flag?

Obviously, I can't read a thing here, but if I was there, I'd buy the bottom right jug. Second pic. "Long effectiveness coolant." Do you guys have Amazon?
 
I used to use AMAM on everything until the 2000s, drained and filled the radiator every 2 years with never a corrosion issue.
 
Don't use any "All makes,all models" or Dexcool coolant in a copper Radiator or heater core. It will eat through the solder. We will not honor our warranty if the wrong coolant is used.
 
I use the green coolant from NAPA or the Peak green. I drained out the Peak green after 40,000 or 50,000 miles (I forget) and it looked almost new.
 
Does it freeze in Taiwan? I would use green stuff for your classic. Much to the horror of my fellow E 28ers, I used store brand green stuff cut in half with rusty well water. The special BMW stuff is blue and costs twice as much. Nothing untoward from using it for 22 yrs and 5 differnt cars.
 
I am still running green conventional in my Jeep. It came with it from the factory. Next drain and flush will see G-05 going back in.
 
Old car. I use Peak green in my 88 E-150, the radiator is the original and as clean and corrosion free as the day it rolled off the assembly line. I wish I could use that in my Jeeps instead of OAT and HOAT coolants.
 
As already pointed out above, the G-05 lasts much longer than the green conventional coolant. Both G-05 and conventional green are low silicate and the Zerex site shows the G-05 to be only a tiny amount less than the conventional. The old high silicate greens of yesteryear no longer exist.

This very dated article below implies that the conventional green coolant "should" protect soldered copper/brass components a little bit better:

https://www.motor.com/magazine-summary/c...w-or-orange-or/

"We have in previous articles pointed out that today's coolant inhibitor packages contain a small amount of copper-brass protection, but may provide little protection if a radiator is made with high-lead solder. Results of industry standard tests of the new Toyota extended-life coolant now show a substantial weight loss (corrosion), both in a 50-50 mix and in a 33% coolant mixture (solder corrosion is much greater in this more diluted solution).

If you have to change a radiator or heater core, use aluminum. Or, if it's an older car and the owner wants the lowest-cost radiator, you might procure a soldered-together copper-brass unit. Conventional American coolant should provide better protection against solder corrosion, which can result in radiator tube restrictions and leaks. But no coolant provides perfect protection."


Again, it's a 14 year old article so who knows what today's coolants are capable of.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Old car. I use Peak green in my 88 E-150, the radiator is the original and as clean and corrosion free as the day it rolled off the assembly line. I wish I could use that in my Jeeps instead of OAT and HOAT coolants.
you can.
 
I run Durex classic green in my 97 Taurus that I get at the farm and ranch store because it is cheap. The Taurus is famous for developing rust in the cooling system so the coolant gets flushed out long before it goes bad.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: Ducked
I use the stuff in the white jug on the lower shelf.



I don't know what it is, and if I read Trad. Mandarin I probably still wouldn't know.

Its green.

It says its "Radiator Fluid" in English, so it may be made from what squeezes out of old radiators when they crush them.

If you can see anything on that shelf that would be more suitable for a 1986 Daihatsu Skywing (like a Charade) let me know.

Or this shelf



I think SONAX is a known brand so I might try that next time. They don't seem to show any coolant on the website, though, and theres no guarantee that it isn't fake, though it probably isn't




Is that Sonax stuff sporting the German flag?

Obviously, I can't read a thing here, but if I was there, I'd buy the bottom right jug. Second pic. "Long effectiveness coolant." Do you guys have Amazon?


I believe SONAX is German, though I dunno if that stuff is.

I'm not too bothered about coolant longevity since I have some rust in the system which would perhaps benefit from another flush. I also had some coolant loss from suspected head gasket blowing (though that seems to have stopped, or at least slowed a lot) and a slight leak from a pipe junction to the water pump.

It never freezes here (except maybe very occaisionally on some high mountain passes where I'm unlikely to park) so its for corrosion protection. It would probably make sense to use specific non-antifreeze anti-corrosion products which I believe exist, but I've never seen them here.
 
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