SLIGHTLY slower startup with new filter

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Just changed the oil in my Sienna. Put in 5w20 for the first time (always used 5w30 before), but I doubt this is the oil. Both I and my wife (unprompted, although I did ask her if she noticed anything different at startup) have noticed that it takes a second or two longer to get the engine starting.

I just put on an M1 filter (yes, the correct size, 102). I'm wondering if this is an ADBV that is not functioning properly, or what? I am pretty sure this is not my imagination. I've changed the oil myself the past year or so on these cars, and I've never noticed anything like this. This is not a horrible grinding noise---just an extra second or two for the engine to start.

Assuming for the sake of argument that what I'm hearing is a real difference, what are the chances that this is a faulty ADBV? This is not even an additional 3-4 seconds, so perhaps that rules out the ADBV? I don't know how much time it would take oil to go through the filter, if the ADBV were not working right. There are absolutely no leaks, so the oil is there in the engine.

FWIW, I have replaced the starter last Feb (Feb 2017) after a new one failed after 4 months--so perhaps this is the starter slowly going out, again assuming that there is a delay in starting time. I'm not necessarily convinced that this is the filter, but if it is, I will put on a new one ASAP.
 
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An engine should start-up the same regardless of the oil filter used. And a bad ADBV isn't going to cause the engine to crank longer before starting. An engine should even start up in the same time if there was no oil in the sump ... of course it might only result in one start-up.

Sounds more like a fuel supply issue going on ... maybe the fuel pump is going out or not priming the system well before starting. And yes, it could be the starter is again going out and turning over just slightly slower causing the engine to take a hair longer to fire up. IMO, the last thing to blame a slow engine start-up on would be the oil filter.
 
Z06, I'm fine with that. Saves me the cost of a new filter!
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Only, and I mean only thing I can think of, is the thinner oil gives you less cylinder compression. Basically, if you had bad rings and/or worn cylinder, and low compression, a thicker oil could give you better compression.
 
Might even just be some bad gas, or the injectors are getting a bit dirty. Might throw in a bottle of fuel system cleaner and see how that goes.
 
Any time an engine starts to turn over slow, start with the basics; Battery, starter, alternator.
If you can't check it yourself, take it to one of the major parts stores. They will do a FREE electrical check for you.
My money is on a bad cell in the battery.
 
I can't believe this. I think I've finally gotten everyone in a BITOG thread to agree on something.
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Anyways, that's great. I'd rather not have to get a new filter, and then replace the old one with top off oil.
 
Did you perform the oil change, as follows?

1. Change oil and filter cold

2. Start engine to circulate for a 5-10 seconds

3. Shut the engine off to check and add oil, as necessary

What I'm asking, is if the car had been run for only a short time while cold before attempting again? I've experienced hard-starts after starting vehicles up only to move them a few feet (< 20 seconds run time), so I always wait until the secondary air injection pump turns off (if I can hear it) or 30 or so seconds.

//

Also, how many times have you started the engine since you changed the oil? Might just be coincidence.

Your oil light is going out immediately upon starting, right?
 
after the OC, the engine ran for a couple of minutes. It has been started 3-4 times since then. The oil pressure light went out after a solid 2 seconds, which is typical (from what I've seen) on my cars after an oil change. I have not looked at the oil pressure light since the first start on the ramps.
 
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Only, and I mean only thing I can think of, is the thinner oil gives you less cylinder compression. Basically, if you had bad rings and/or worn cylinder, and low compression, a thicker oil could give you better compression.

I am leaning towards less viscous oil theory too, as it happened to me before and OP description matches the symptoms perfectly. 5w20 just seems to lower the compression a bit vs 5w30 in a 150k mile engine. I would say that it is perfectly normal, considering age and miles. Though personally I would use 0w40 until the end of car's life or end of my ownership.
 
My daughter's Impreza was still fairly new when my wife took it to someplace like Midas for a cheapie oil change.
After the car sat at my daughter's school that afternoon, she said it was slow to start when she went to play softball...when I made it to the field, I checked the oil level and it was fine. I noticed then that they used a Brand X (almost unmarked) oil filter that was even smaller than the OEM one. The Impreza started fine after the game, but it was still pretty warm then.
When I got home later, I changed the filter out for one of my Tokyo Rokis and the car started fine the next morning and ever since. After asking around here, I inspected the Brand X filter and it didn't seem to have an ADBV.

I sure can't prove it, but it seems likely to me that the jobber filter resulted in a different feel to the start for my daughter. Could have just been some weird random occurrence or nothing at all, of course.
 
It may be the filter ADBV. I had a Ford years ago that had a switch in the oil pressure line that would not start without oil pressure. I believe it supplied power to the ignition module.
 
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