Opinions on buying this 07 escape

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Car got towed into work for a busted lf brake hose.... so they got all 4 done and i went to bleed the system and all 4 bleeders were frozen solid. So tried to sell em new wheel cyls and calipers. They traded it in in our used car department. So it came back to me to get a pedal to get it to auction..... i asked what they wanted for it. They said 3k. It's on 07 ford escape xlt 3.0L FWD. with 109k on it. Got some under body rust but not to bad and a paint spot peelingx behind the sun roof. No leaks but could use sawy bar links. Pulled the oil cap and it dont look the best down there but not to bad. So im trying to figure out if i should buy it and get rid of my Leakey a$$ taurus.
 
Did you take it for a test drive? Is it automatic and what does the tranny fluid look like if it is? Also -- is it 4WD? Mileage is not bad at all for that price.


Dale
 
This generation Escape LOVE to rust away near the rear shock towers. Carefully inspect this area before doing anything.
 
Originally Posted By: BAJA_05
Did you take it for a test drive? Is it automatic and what does the tranny fluid look like if it is? Also -- is it 4WD? Mileage is not bad at all for that price.


Dale
going to put calipers and whhels cyls on it tommrow and test drive it then decide. FWD 3.0 v6
 
according to NADA, that's a good price - as long as you are ok with 2wd. ditto on the rust by the rear fender wells. when those rust you lose your shock mounts. there are repair kits available. I just fixed one last year.
 
The front engine cradle/suspension crossmember is just 2 pieces of sheet steel spot welded together,the control arms bolt to this,these rust badly and can cause the wheels to tilt out at the bottom when the control arms break away.This is what happens when a Mazda 6 gets transformed into an SUV/Crossover.Should have stayed being a car.
 
If it has that much corroded at 109k, I'd avoid it. Or take the risk at like $1500.
 
The cd4e transmission in that escape is a weak point as well. The factory had transmission coolers on a lot of them to get them to last. When i had an 01 escape i changed the trans fluid every other oil change. There was no filter to access. The valve body went bad in mine at 175k so i traded it.

With the rust and unknown maintenance and so forth i'd pass or get it cheap say $1000.
 
Prices on that age would be 4-5k depending on age and miles. The rear wheel wells is major rust point (a body shop can fix this but don't know how much). CD4e is a good transmission if the fluid is changed, if the fluid isn't red run! Brake components are fairly cheap, going to do mine this spring. Too late now but if you could of soaked those bleeders in MMO and ATF for a couple drive cycles they would came loose. Sway bar links are cheap.

I'd say even with the bad brakes and if eventually have to change the trans your still ahead at 3k.. but I'd try to get less.

My well taken care of Escape at 155k runs and drives like new.
 
Originally Posted By: NHGUY
The front engine cradle/suspension crossmember is just 2 pieces of sheet steel spot welded together,the control arms bolt to this,these rust badly and can cause the wheels to tilt out at the bottom when the control arms break away.This is what happens when a Mazda 6 gets transformed into an SUV/Crossover.Should have stayed being a car.


There's a recall on this. I never had ours looked at though. The front timing cover leaks and pretty much cures any chance of rust up front!
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
If it has that much corroded at 109k, I'd avoid it. Or take the risk at like $1500.
I kind of oversated the rust. It's got some surface rust underneath the vehicle and some spots are just a little worse.
 
Well probably gonna buy it next week. Got the rear wheel cylinders put on and One front caliper, got the other bleeder to break loose Barely. Power bled the system with the machine at work and test drove it and the transmission and engine run and drive smooth. Atf is brown but not burnt.
 
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