5w-20 to 0w-20 for winter? Or for short trips?

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Colorado
2012 Ram 1500 4.7L V8
80,250 miles
Used 5w-20 (per owner's manual) full sythetic (M1 or PP) since I got the truck at 22k miles.

Truck used to live a far more balanced life, 60% highway/40% short trip driving. For the last year and a half, it is more like 80% short trips/20% highway- and will likely stay on that use since I changed jobs. Last week, the oil life monitor dinged me for a 6month change even though it had only driven 3500 miles. PP out, PP in, Napa Gold 7899 off, Purolator BOSS on. (AAP special)

Questions:
-With the frequent short trips that NEVER get the oil to operating temps, what's the opinion on OCI?
-With the short tripping, does a 0w-20 make any sense?
-I live in Colorado, so with the cold winters, does it make sense to consider a viscosity change for the winter?
-Other suggestions for reducing the short trip wear? Besides riding a bicycle?

Fire away!
 
Originally Posted By: CT8
I think the 0W=30 AFE is a great oil.


That M1 AFE in that grade is terrible along with the 0/20. If you look at the specs, the ppm of zinc and prosperous Is low compared to other brands

Imho 5/30 is offers more protection, looking at specs, not much difference in the low weights in the cold flow unless your in sub zeros
 
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CT8- What is AFE?

oldhp- Is that just to burn off any water/fuel in the oil?

Bullwinkle- If it gets THAT cold, there's nowhere I NEED to be that won't be there the next day.

I know I COULD use 0w-20 year round, I am worried about the wear protection when climbing the Rockies in the summer. I don't ski but I do camp. Climbing Eisenhower Pass requires multiple stretches of WOT at 4k+ RPM for minutes at a time. Yea, the engine needs more HP at altitude (it was fine tooling around NJ in its previous duty) so I am trying to protect what power is does make now.
 
Originally Posted By: TallerTrucker
CT8- What is AFE?

oldhp- Is that just to burn off any water/fuel in the oil?

Bullwinkle- If it gets THAT cold, there's nowhere I NEED to be that won't be there the next day.

I know I COULD use 0w-20 year round, I am worried about the wear protection when climbing the Rockies in the summer. I don't ski but I do camp. Climbing Eisenhower Pass requires multiple stretches of WOT at 4k+ RPM for minutes at a time. Yea, the engine needs more HP at altitude (it was fine tooling around NJ in its previous duty) so I am trying to protect what power is does make now.


I would run a 5/30 does this model truck have the cylinder deactivation? If it does I have heard rumors to stick with the 5/20. If not I would run a 5/30. You could also use a 10/30
 
You could use a synthetic 5W-30 in the summer and 0W-20 in the winter. Oil changes twice a year. The 5W-30 should help with wear when flooring it up the mountain. The only way to know is a UOA though.
 
Whats the cold flow difference between the 5w20 and 0w20, maybe 5-10 degrees? I just don't see a real tangible benefit. Your fine with the recommended 5w20 and it's cheaper. Just my .02
 
There is not a whole lot of difference between a 0w or 5w-20 oil. The 5w-20 might be a little cheaper. Pick any of the major brands and run with it year round.

Mobil1 AFE is a good oil as is Valvoline, Shell, etc.
 
Originally Posted By: Bullwinkle007
Originally Posted By: CT8
I think the 0W=30 AFE is a great oil.


That M1 AFE in that grade is terrible along with the 0/20. If you look at the specs, the ppm of zinc and prosperous Is low compared to other brands


And this is based on what exactly, your extensive tear-down testing experience or just baseless posit stated as fact?

For modern engines that require the designations and approvals that these oils meet, they are perfectly suitable and offer the same level of performance as any other product that carries the same.
 
Originally Posted By: TallerTrucker
2012 Ram 1500 4.7L V8
80,250 miles
Used 5w-20 (per owner's manual) full sythetic (M1 or PP) since I got the truck at 22k miles.

Truck used to live a far more balanced life, 60% highway/40% short trip driving. For the last year and a half, it is more like 80% short trips/20% highway- and will likely stay on that use since I changed jobs. Last week, the oil life monitor dinged me for a 6month change even though it had only driven 3500 miles. PP out, PP in, Napa Gold 7899 off, Purolator BOSS on. (AAP special)

Questions:
-With the frequent short trips that NEVER get the oil to operating temps, what's the opinion on OCI?
-With the short tripping, does a 0w-20 make any sense?
-I live in Colorado, so with the cold winters, does it make sense to consider a viscosity change for the winter?
-Other suggestions for reducing the short trip wear? Besides riding a bicycle?

Fire away!


Since you are already paying for synthetic, the financials of the situation don't really matter.

You live in Colorado, I assume you see some reasonably cold starts. Do you use a block heater?

If you periodically see temperatures approaching the CCS limits of the 5w-xx designation (-30C/-22F) then it may be advantageous to move to the 0w-20, which would be a touch easier on your battery at those temps.

M1 EP 0w-20 would be my choice due to its PAO content, but you can't go wrong with really any 0w-20 on the shelf. The 4.7L isn't a highly demanding application.


You may want to consider doing a UOA to see how much fuel dilution you are experiencing with the short tripping. That'll aide in determining how long you can safely go between changes.
 
Recently did an engine start at -22 degrees F with 5W-30 synthetic. It took 4 seconds to get full oil pressure. No big deal but 0W-xx would have been friendlier to the engine.
 
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Use what is called for in the owner manual which is 5w20. You are using a great synthetic oil and I bet she starts easily in the winter with that oil in her.

If you wanted to change for some reason, the 0w20 is perfectly acceptable as well.

Since you are changing it according to OLM, which is 6 months, and only went 3500 miles, I highly suspect the oil you are removing has a ton of servicable life left in it.
 
Originally Posted By: toneydoc
Use what is called for in the owner manual which is 5w20. You are using a great synthetic oil and I bet she starts easily in the winter with that oil in her.

Since you are changing it according to OLM, which is 6 months, and only went 3500 miles, I highly suspect the oil you are removing has a ton of servicable life left in it.


Yep, starts quickly and pretty smoothly, just wondering if there was a huge benefit to 0w. I also imagine the oil has life left, which is why I'll be doing a UOA next OCI. Does anyone have a recommendation- or is Blackstone the BITOG standard?

As for the 6 months, the manual says "Under no circumstances should oil change intervals exceed 8,000 miles (13 000 km) or six months, whichever comes first" but the short tripping makes me think I'm trending towards severe duty- even though the manual only says "More frequent maintenance may be needed for vehicles in severe operating conditions, such as dusty areas and very short trip driving" they don't give a recommended interval.

I know I am paying more for full synthetic, which is fine so long as I am getting additional protection from starting the engine. PP is only $22.47 by me anyway, M1 for $26. Filters from RockAuto or Napa usually.
 
Usually, 5W and 0W are interchangeable, however, I'd prefer to use what is indicated in the Manual. Sometimes, after rebates, full synthetics are even cheaper than conventional oil, therefore, it hardly makes any sense to use conventional now-a-days.
 
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