2013 Ford Focus 2.0 GDI: OE Spark Plugs, 94k miles

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2013 Ford Focus, 2.0 NA Direct Injected engine, First post in a while, just replaced my OE NGK (I believe) plugs with some new NipponDenso Iridum TT ITV20TT plugs, after 94k miles. The electrodes in general don't look as worn as I'd expect after 94k. The plating is a bit rusted though.

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And in case anyone asks, no I haven't had any issues with intake valve deposits, nor any other problems really other than the transmission clutch pack ones. I might replace the evap purge valve in the coming months just out of an abundance of caution.
 
You got your money's worth out of them. Did you check the gaps as compared to new plug gap specs? Can you tell any drive ability improvements with the new plugs? And lastly it being an inline 4 engine I'm assuming changing them was not difficult.

Whimsey
 
Originally Posted By: Whimsey
You got your money's worth out of them. Did you check the gaps as compared to new plug gap specs? Can you tell any drive ability improvements with the new plugs? And lastly it being an inline 4 engine I'm assuming changing them was not difficult.

Whimsey


The new ones were gapped properly, it's harder to measure because they are the twin tip ones so you have to be really careful not to damage the ultra fine wire plugs

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Thus far I've only driven about a mile since I changed them so haven't really had a chance to look for drive ability improvements. But yeah 4 cylinder so it only took like 10-15 minutes to replace them.
 
Did they crunch and squeak on the way out?

I changed the spark plugs on my '11 engine and every time that thing worried me and made me think I was pulling the threads out.
 
Holy corrosion batman. My dad's Taurus had the same corrosion issue on the plugs but not that bad. Is it because Ford skim on the coating or is it the seat type?
 
Originally Posted By: PandaBear
Holy corrosion batman. My dad's Taurus had the same corrosion issue on the plugs but not that bad. Is it because Ford skim on the coating or is it the seat type?


Probably because they are in the well between the valvecovers, probably condensation and moisture getting in and no real way for it to get back out again. That's my guess at least. 5 years of Upstate NY/Ohio winters too.
 
So having driven it a bit more now, I notice 2 things. It doesn't seem to crank quite as long when starting cold as it did before, and the idle also seems substantially smoother now, doesn't sound any different, but there seems to be less vibration than before.
 
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