I understand using silicone base lubricant for slide pins but there seems to be some debate between using copper anti seize or brake grease on the pad ears and possibly backing. I’ve searched the forum and it seems the last discussion of this was 5 or so years ago. I’ve seen YouTube videos where Chrisfix and ericthecarguy are using copper anti seize. I trust their opinion but I always thought you want to use grease like permatex green or purple. Wondering if the general consensus has changed. Also I’m wondering if it would be wise to use anti seize on the wheel hub to rotor contact point. Long story short, do I need to find some copper anti seize, I have aluminum already.
Anti seize or brake grease on brake pads
- Thread starter pda1122
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I spray the back of the pads with the Permatex 80077, and use their green grease for the pad ears. Sil Glyde goes on the pins. No problems to report.
Sil Glyde-
• Back side plate of disc brake pads
• Anti-squeal shims
• Caliper slides, bushings, boots, and seals
I have also used antiseize.
I file all ears that dont slide smoothly and snugly.. Usually there is excess paint or burs on the cheaper pads.
To be honest the lubes dont make it the life of the pad..with people washing their car and driving thru rain most if not all washes off eventually. If you were in the desert i would say it would last alot longer.
I wouldnt put anything near the hubs, nor overdo any of the lubes...due to slinging on the rotor and bedding in the pads.
• Back side plate of disc brake pads
• Anti-squeal shims
• Caliper slides, bushings, boots, and seals
I have also used antiseize.
I file all ears that dont slide smoothly and snugly.. Usually there is excess paint or burs on the cheaper pads.
To be honest the lubes dont make it the life of the pad..with people washing their car and driving thru rain most if not all washes off eventually. If you were in the desert i would say it would last alot longer.
I wouldnt put anything near the hubs, nor overdo any of the lubes...due to slinging on the rotor and bedding in the pads.
Nothing ever seems text book regarding brake lubes. There have been numerous threads about some vehicle brand brake rubber swelling if one is not exceedingly particular about using a specific product on pins/bushings. Not gonna go there now.
It seems that it is preached to keep petroleum solvent lubes away from brakes entirely. Obviously it can affect the internal caliper seals and other internal rubber components if it makes its way into the fluid exposed areas. But what about the exterior?
3M has a copper anti-seize labeled for brake use. It purports to be water washout resistant and for metal to metal contact areas. Is it better than any other type of anti seize for this application? I don't know. It DOES contain petroleum solvents AND I have seen shops use it not only on exterior exposed parts, but also on the rubber bushed pins. This goes against the preaching to keep petroleum solvents away from brakes.
https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1080858O/3mbrake-jobs-made-better-bulletin.pdf They show silicone for the pins/bushings and the copper for exposed metal to metal areas.
I prefer to use a silicone type brake lube for the pins and a high solids non petroleum product for the water exposed metal to metal areas. Two examples are: Honda(Dow) m77
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Honda-08734-0...13=&veh=sem
or
Pastelub https://goodson.com/products/bpl-2400-pastelub-brake-lubricant This is a Swiss made product that is impervious to water wash off and I LOVE it. Inexpensive, tenacious, and stops rust excellent. I use it on brake metal to metal areas(pad ears/back) , rotor hats, and hubs. I "think" my high solids pastes are more water washout proof, have less oils to migrate on to unwanted areas, AND leave some boundary lube (marbles) when the oil eventually dissipates.
Yes, use something on the hubs, pad ears, etc. to prevent rust. Just a paper thin layer. Good luck making your decision.
It seems that it is preached to keep petroleum solvent lubes away from brakes entirely. Obviously it can affect the internal caliper seals and other internal rubber components if it makes its way into the fluid exposed areas. But what about the exterior?
3M has a copper anti-seize labeled for brake use. It purports to be water washout resistant and for metal to metal contact areas. Is it better than any other type of anti seize for this application? I don't know. It DOES contain petroleum solvents AND I have seen shops use it not only on exterior exposed parts, but also on the rubber bushed pins. This goes against the preaching to keep petroleum solvents away from brakes.
https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1080858O/3mbrake-jobs-made-better-bulletin.pdf They show silicone for the pins/bushings and the copper for exposed metal to metal areas.
I prefer to use a silicone type brake lube for the pins and a high solids non petroleum product for the water exposed metal to metal areas. Two examples are: Honda(Dow) m77
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Honda-08734-0...13=&veh=sem
or
Pastelub https://goodson.com/products/bpl-2400-pastelub-brake-lubricant This is a Swiss made product that is impervious to water wash off and I LOVE it. Inexpensive, tenacious, and stops rust excellent. I use it on brake metal to metal areas(pad ears/back) , rotor hats, and hubs. I "think" my high solids pastes are more water washout proof, have less oils to migrate on to unwanted areas, AND leave some boundary lube (marbles) when the oil eventually dissipates.
Yes, use something on the hubs, pad ears, etc. to prevent rust. Just a paper thin layer. Good luck making your decision.
Throughout the years, peoples opinions varied. At some dealers it was all silver anti seize, some used the pink brake paste, and the BG additive that you let soak into the pads. BMW said nothing on the pads at all, only the slide pins. Its all what works best for you. Ive been going with lubing slide pins, under ears, and in the channel for the ears on the caliper bracket
Originally Posted By: pda1122
I understand using silicone base lubricant for slide pins but there seems to be some debate between using copper anti seize or brake grease on the pad ears and possibly backing. I’ve searched the forum and it seems the last discussion of this was 5 or so years ago. I’ve seen YouTube videos where Chrisfix and ericthecarguy are using copper anti seize. I trust their opinion but I always thought you want to use grease like permatex green or purple. Wondering if the general consensus has changed. Also I’m wondering if it would be wise to use anti seize on the wheel hub to rotor contact point. Long story short, do I need to find some copper anti seize, I have aluminum already.
My neighbor had a brand new hyundai sante fe, you could see the copper anti seize on the pad ears. That ended the debate for me. If there is copper anti sieze on the pad ears on a car from the factory, I would assume that it is ok to use it on the back of the pads, too. Silicone washes off quickly, anti seize sticks like glue.
Also, I'm pretty sure sil glide (I got sil-eze from napa here in canada) is only like 5% silicone. When I kill my tube, I am going to get the 3M silicone paste.
I understand using silicone base lubricant for slide pins but there seems to be some debate between using copper anti seize or brake grease on the pad ears and possibly backing. I’ve searched the forum and it seems the last discussion of this was 5 or so years ago. I’ve seen YouTube videos where Chrisfix and ericthecarguy are using copper anti seize. I trust their opinion but I always thought you want to use grease like permatex green or purple. Wondering if the general consensus has changed. Also I’m wondering if it would be wise to use anti seize on the wheel hub to rotor contact point. Long story short, do I need to find some copper anti seize, I have aluminum already.
My neighbor had a brand new hyundai sante fe, you could see the copper anti seize on the pad ears. That ended the debate for me. If there is copper anti sieze on the pad ears on a car from the factory, I would assume that it is ok to use it on the back of the pads, too. Silicone washes off quickly, anti seize sticks like glue.
Also, I'm pretty sure sil glide (I got sil-eze from napa here in canada) is only like 5% silicone. When I kill my tube, I am going to get the 3M silicone paste.
GM brush-on silicone brake lube for pins and ears. Nothing on rear of oem shimmed brake pads. Only OEM pads used. (I once got Carquest Blue pads and the things stopped NOTICEABLY worse. That was the end of the non-OEM pad experiment).
Here is a picture of a Pastelub protected hub with 5 years of salt bath exposure and a similar aged hub with no protection:
M77 is good stuff for the metal parts that's for sure. The high moly content actually burnishes the metal surfaces.
On non-shimmed pads, CRC Disc Brake Quiet is a winner in my book. Some times it's the shims that causes the noise. That's when I throw the shims in the trash, and use the CRC.
http://www.crcindustries.com/products/disc-brake-quiet-4-fl-oz-05016.html
On non-shimmed pads, CRC Disc Brake Quiet is a winner in my book. Some times it's the shims that causes the noise. That's when I throw the shims in the trash, and use the CRC.
http://www.crcindustries.com/products/disc-brake-quiet-4-fl-oz-05016.html
Toyota soap-based grease on the slide pins and M77 or AS880N for the shim kits and pad ears.
Hee hee. You said "consensus" You can't get any of this stuff here, so I would bet Taiwanese mechanics use general purpose lithium petroleum base grease on everything, not unknown with British mechanics.
It's a good life rule to do whatever Taiwanese mechanics don't, so I use silicon grease (bought in Japan) on the slide pins with a wrap of PTFE tape. The latter is perhaps not good if the brakes ever get very hot and I probably wouldnt do it again
I use a trace of Aluslip on the pad ears
I can't think of any reason copper would be better but I can think of a reason it would be worse, so i wouldnt buy it if I could. I think grease on the hub would probably be ok but it could theoretically get slung off with heat and centrifugal forces
I use a thin sheet of polythene
In the past I've used aluminium foil.
It's a good life rule to do whatever Taiwanese mechanics don't, so I use silicon grease (bought in Japan) on the slide pins with a wrap of PTFE tape. The latter is perhaps not good if the brakes ever get very hot and I probably wouldnt do it again
I use a trace of Aluslip on the pad ears
I can't think of any reason copper would be better but I can think of a reason it would be worse, so i wouldnt buy it if I could. I think grease on the hub would probably be ok but it could theoretically get slung off with heat and centrifugal forces
I use a thin sheet of polythene
In the past I've used aluminium foil.
Originally Posted By: Audios
Throughout the years, peoples opinions varied. At some dealers it was all silver anti seize, some used the pink brake paste, and the BG additive that you let soak into the pads. BMW said nothing on the pads at all, only the slide pins. Its all what works best for you. Ive been going with lubing slide pins, under ears, and in the channel for the ears on the caliper bracket
The last brake class I attended with Chrysler recommended not using any lube. On the other hand We have a Mopar branded lube in a tube similar to the pic above, it looks and feels like gray anti seize.
Throughout the years, peoples opinions varied. At some dealers it was all silver anti seize, some used the pink brake paste, and the BG additive that you let soak into the pads. BMW said nothing on the pads at all, only the slide pins. Its all what works best for you. Ive been going with lubing slide pins, under ears, and in the channel for the ears on the caliper bracket
The last brake class I attended with Chrysler recommended not using any lube. On the other hand We have a Mopar branded lube in a tube similar to the pic above, it looks and feels like gray anti seize.
Gotta ask:
Is Sil-Glyde the name NAPA (and NAPA alone) uses?
Is Sil-Glyde the name NAPA (and NAPA alone) uses?
Just bought some Napa Syl-Glyde to put on the slide pins for the brake job I'm doing on the Frontier. Also bought a can of Permatex Copper Anti-Sieze Lubricant for any metal to metal contact points. Using Napa Ultra Premium rotors and Carquest Platinum Professional brake pads on all four corners.
I grind the ears of the pads as needed to prevent binding. I also remove the shims, wire out the crud then smear a little of brake moly to help prevent rust behind the shims (which could bind the pads). Then I clean the shims and lube them as well. I also clean the caliper...piston and fingers and lightly lube to again prevent rust. I also anti-seize the hub and also the front side of the rotor.
I clean the pins and relube them. Then I usually flush out the brake fluid.
I clean the pins and relube them. Then I usually flush out the brake fluid.
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I use Napa sil-gylde on the brake pad pins, if they have a rubber boot. Some brake pad pins, especially on motorcycles, don't have rubber boots so they get a light coating of standard grey permatex anti-seize instead.
I then brush on a thin coat of anti-seize on the face of the brake piston(s) and pad ears. I always have good results doing it this way and rarely get any brake noise.
I think most of the high pitched squeaking and squealing from aftermarket pads comes from the sliding between the piston and backing plate of the pads. To stop the noise you have two options: either glue the piston to the backing plate with the old CRC Disc brake quiet or lubricate the mating surface between the piston and backing plate with a healthy coat of high temperature anti-seize. Any normal type of grade 2 grease is just going to wash or melt off. Anti-seize holds up much better but you still may need to re-apply every year or so if you want your brakes to stay totally quiet.
I then brush on a thin coat of anti-seize on the face of the brake piston(s) and pad ears. I always have good results doing it this way and rarely get any brake noise.
I think most of the high pitched squeaking and squealing from aftermarket pads comes from the sliding between the piston and backing plate of the pads. To stop the noise you have two options: either glue the piston to the backing plate with the old CRC Disc brake quiet or lubricate the mating surface between the piston and backing plate with a healthy coat of high temperature anti-seize. Any normal type of grade 2 grease is just going to wash or melt off. Anti-seize holds up much better but you still may need to re-apply every year or so if you want your brakes to stay totally quiet.
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