Effects of using the wrong oil

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That would be believable if people didn't substitute 1 of 5, or even 4 quarts of their oil with a full quart of LOS. I was at one time young (stupid) enough to do so, driving around with oil that was as thick as cold oil in a fully warmed up engine. The Jeep keeps on ticking, the Infinity J30 I did that to was also a happy little car until sold. I heard of people doing the same, as well as bumping up a grade, and they have driven the cars without engine failure.
I can see sulfur eating away the colored metals after God knows how many miles in an engine where someone would choose the lazy route to thicken the engine oil with gear lube, instead of replacing a gasket. Again, the amount of time is not known to me, and many people dump their cars at an early age, and he reasons for a failed engine could be mislabeled due to unknown history.
Same can be said for people using MMO, ATF, or diesel in the crank case.

That page may as well say "Bad things may happen if certain decisions were to be made, maybe."
 
i stopped reading when I got to the viscosity is the most important part. We all know that most gas engines driven normally will run a very long time on anything between a 0w20 and a 20w50. Imo the add pack is more important than the viscosity.
 
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My trucks engine was spec'd 5W30 in 1997 and then spec'd 5W20 in 2000. But, the clearances and tolerances NEVER changed in all the years this engine was produced (1997-2008). I have run various weights of oil (0W20-10W30) in this engine and at 145K miles it runs as smooth as a Swiss watch. When will it implode due to running the wrong viscosity of oil? I am currently running 0W40 in it. And, this is the quietest and smoothest it has ever run on one kind of oil.
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Viscosity is a transient value everytime we start the vehicle at ambient temperatures the oil is thicker than operating temperatures and engines run and tolerate this transition just fine as they near operating temps the differences between sae viscosity grades is not near as severe as this article would infer. Now the proper service designation and not use gmoverly obsolete oils is important.
 
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Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr
Viscosity is a transient value everytime we start the vehicle at ambient temperatures the oil is thicker than operating temperatures and engines run and tolerate this transition just fine as they near operating temps the differences between sae viscosity grades is not near as severe as this article would infer. Now the proper service designation and not use gmoverly obsolete oils is important.

+1
 
That article didn't say much.
I can tell you from real life experience that oil viscosity matters very little. Spending 35 years in Pennsylvania Winters and seeing vehicles start on 40 HD oil just fine.
My conclusions use good oil, with the proper SAE and change often and the engine will out live your love for the vehicle.
 
"Viscosity is the most important physical property of a lubricant. For motor oils, numerous viscosity grades are readily available. The selection of the wrong viscosity grade is the most common mismatch of a lubricant to a machine."

If that were true, the engine would blow up on start-up. Cold oil, even 0W-20 is many, many times thicker than even a 50 at op temp. The engine neither knows, nor cares. It just wants a good oil film. If all parts are expected to run with a "wedge" of oil to keep the parts separated, it'll need a minimum viscosity. But more will not hurt the bearings, just the fuel consumption ...

"If the lubricant has too high of a viscosity, it can cause starvation of the oil flow and increased drag"

This a really stupid semi-misleading article with no depth to the discussion, and some daft phraseology ...
frown.gif
 
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I ran 10w30 which was approved by Hyundai in my 2012 Accent PUP 10w30 and PUP 5w30 in the winter with MoS2 and got 200k in 28 months with no timing chain issues and 37 plus mpg. I did have a Injen SP 1340 intake and axle back sport exhaust. Cat clogged bc ecu timing wasn't updated.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
i stopped reading when I got to the viscosity is the most important part. We all know that most gas engines driven normally will run a very long time on anything between a 0w20 and a 20w50. Imo the add pack is more important than the viscosity.


For your convenience, I copy pasted it right here:
"Viscosity is the most important physical property of a lubricant. For motor oils, numerous viscosity grades are readily available. The selection of the wrong viscosity grade is the most common mismatch of a lubricant to a machine. If the selected lubricant has a viscosity that is too low, a smaller lubricating film will result, which can lead to considerable internal engine wear being produced. If the lubricant has too high of a viscosity, it can cause starvation of the oil flow and increased drag, which results in a loss of efficiency. Both of these situations will have adverse effects on the machine in the near and long term."
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
i stopped reading when I got to the viscosity is the most important part.


Yes.... surprised "Machinery Lubrication" didn't research for the article a little better than that.

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
This a really stupid semi-misleading article with no depth to the discussion, and some daft phraseology ...
frown.gif



Yes, I agree
 
Originally Posted By: Linctex
Originally Posted By: Chris142
i stopped reading when I got to the viscosity is the most important part.


Yes.... surprised "Machinery Lubrication" didn't research for the article a little better than that.


I'm not. Check out Lubricant Storage Life: Industry Needs A Standard

It at least has some data, but the editorial content ignores it and goes for uncritical recieved opinion peddling.

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
This a really stupid semi-misleading article with no depth to the discussion, and some daft phraseology ...
frown.gif



Originally Posted By: Linctex


Yes, I agree


Check
 
In the real world most engines can accept a wide range of viscosities, that despite not being "optimal" will not cause any damage either.
I'm running cheap 20w50 Dino in a Peugeot 106 that specs 10w40 syn-blend, because it burns some oil, the o.m says 20w50 is ok above temps consistently above +25C but i have been running it year round and even did a few cold starts at below freezing a few weeks ago and nothing happened.
 
Yes as Broc and Bryanccfshr said, cold oil is far thicker than operating temp oil. The only issue is extreme conditions where someone clever should be using a 0W but goes 5W or 10W instead and the oil cannot be pumped. Many of these articles may be confusing these points to some degree.
 
Originally Posted By: Kira
Sorry for this:

What is "...with a full quart of LOS"?

"Lots Of Stickiness"?

"Lube Other than Specified"?


Lucas Oil Stabilizer.
 
Originally Posted By: Kira
Sorry for this:

What is "...with a full quart of LOS"?

"Lots Of Stickiness"?

"Lube Other than Specified"?


Lucas
Oil
Stabilizer

Stabilizes the high temperature viscosity when such an environment to the oil would challenge it.
Unique in its ability (tackifier additive) to help oil cling to metal surfaces in the event of that area having low oil flushing or fling off of oil
more often for the layman, it's used to raise the grade of oil in a pinch to stop blow-by or rod-knock, limping a near-death car to it's grave... or a repair shop
BITOG's favorite "snake oil"
 
The only engine that I can remember having an issue with oil was the Ford Zetec engines as fitted to the Mondeo.

If you didn't use the correct A1/B1 5w30 the valves could stick which caused some misfires.
 
Originally Posted By: Brian553
Stabilizes the high temperature viscosity when such an environment to the oil would challenge it.
Unique in its ability (tackifier additive) to help oil cling to metal surfaces in the event of that area having low oil flushing or fling off of oil
more often for the layman, it's used to raise the grade of oil in a pinch to stop blow-by or rod-knock, limping a near-death car to it's grave... or a repair shop
BITOG's favorite "snake oil"


Stabilizes? How so? It's as thick as vacuum tower bottoms leftovers, has no additives and does not boost TBN. All it does is dilute the good oil in the sump. It's also been proven to entrap air in the oil and I'm pretty sure everyone knows air does not lubricate two metals sliding against each other.

I'm actually kind of amazed that Lucas hasn't been hit with a class-action lawsuit yet about their false claims on it.
 
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