Mobil1 0W40 European Car Formula.

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
May 10, 2005
Messages
2,731
Location
Toronto, Canada
I have three litres left over from the last time I bought it around 2012. The specs listed on the bottle are SM, ACEA A3, B3/B4, GM LL-A-025 and some
other manufacture approvals.

My truck calls for GM6094M oils. The Honda CBR300 calls for 10W30 JASO T 903. Could this oil be used in either one?
 
The truck for sure because 4.3s are SBCs missing a row of cylinders, I would would say even preferable because the SBC is a truly ancient design (1955) and they left the factory with 40 weight at some point I would assume.

EDIT: Lots of PAO in M1 0W40 of that vintage, I'm not sure if it is the esters or the PAO that are responsible for causing oil leaks when switching to synthetic. You are probably ok due to the FS syn that you are using, but if I had that truck and it did not leak oil, I would think twice about going to that oil in particular.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: maxdustington
EDIT: Lots of PAO in M1 0W40 of that vintage,
M1 0w-40 hasn't been PAO based in quite some time.


Quote:
My truck calls for GM6094M oils. The Honda CBR300 calls for 10W30 JASO T 903. Could this oil be used in either one?

I'd say it's fine for your truck.

For your bike - I'd say no. Your bike has a shared sump / wet clutch, so you need an oil that has no friction modifiers in it.
 
I just edited my signature, I am now running Mobil 1 5W30 in my truck.

Did not know engine oils have FMs in them, thought they were for gears and synchronizers and clutches in Auto trannys.
 
Don't use it in your bike. I put car oil, Castrol Syntec 10W40 in a Kawasaki GPZ 550 once and the clutch started slipping very quickly.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: maxdustington
EDIT: Lots of PAO in M1 0W40 of that vintage,
M1 0w-40 hasn't been PAO based in quite some time.

What does European Formula really mean?
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: maxdustington
EDIT: Lots of PAO in M1 0W40 of that vintage,
M1 0w-40 hasn't been PAO based in quite some time.

What does European Formula really mean?

It's a marketing term, so you might want to ask XOM Marketing team.

But to me this generally indicates that an oil meets various European engine manufacturer specs. Which ones particularly? You'd have to look on the back of the bottle or read the product sheet. For this M1 0w-40, it is specs such as MB 229.5, VW 502.00, Porsche A40, etc.
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
What does European Formula really mean?

My understanding is that European engines need oils with high HTHS viscosity and that is what European engine oils provide.
 
Originally Posted By: George7941
My understanding is that European engines need oils with high HTHS viscosity and that is what European engine oils provide.

Not exactly. The are various European engine specs out there... some call for high HT/HS viscosity, others don't.
 
Dont say that to the M1 gurus. They run that PAO scheme like there is no tomorrow.I've learned that additives make the oil finalization not bases.
 
That oil would be just fine for your bike. I have run that and the 5w-50 version in my vfr800. The only auto oils that should not be used in a shared sump motorcycle are the ones labeled resource or energy conserving.
 
Originally Posted By: George7941
I just checked the bottle and it does not say "energy conserving".


In my opinion, that is about the best oil Mobil makes. It has a strong additive package, more like a good motorcycle oil. It's also a thin 40 and I think it's great for engines calling for a 5 or 10-30
 
Originally Posted By: George7941
I just checked the bottle and it does not say "energy conserving".

I don't think API considers any Xw-40 grades to be "energy conserving."

But M1 0w-40 meets MB 229.5 spec which has a fuel economy requirement. M1 0w-40 contains moly additive which functions as anti-wear agent and friction reducer.
 
Uh, Oh. Now I am really not sure about the Honda. It is due for an oil change this spring before riding season starts. Later I will post in the motorcycle forum about which oil to use, whether I should stick with the Honda GN4 10W30 oil, or use an oil I already have.
I have
Mobil 1 0W40 European
Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 0W40
Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 10W30 and 15W40
Mobil 1 5W30, which I currently use in my truck.

I expect the Delvac 10W30 will work well.
 
I didn't care for the M1 5w-30 in my vfr800, valve train was noisier than usual with that oil. Don't worry about moly in the 0w-40, Red Line motorcycle oil has three times the moly and it's made specifically for motorcycles.

I have been riding street bikes since the 80s with auto or diesel oil in them 90% of the time, never replaced a clutch, never had any oil related issues. That being said, I have Honda conventional mc oil in my bike right now and it shifts nicer than a lot of high dollar synthetics Iv'e tried.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top