Like mentioned earlier -- PCV if not changed.
Dale
Dale
2012 honda accord
- Thread starter Bullwinkle007
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+2, on an oem pcv valve. Usually the internal spring breaks around the 60k mark.
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Originally Posted By: Swifty
Run 30 weight in it and call it a day your consumption should decrease. I have run 30wt in mine since the first OCI.
Does 30wt slow your Civic down at all compared to a 20wt? Is your Civic a K24 (I was thinking some models have them,maybe the Si?).
Run 30 weight in it and call it a day your consumption should decrease. I have run 30wt in mine since the first OCI.
Does 30wt slow your Civic down at all compared to a 20wt? Is your Civic a K24 (I was thinking some models have them,maybe the Si?).
What is the difference between 5w-30us and 5w-30 euro. Both synthetic. 5-30 euro is readliy available in the us
5W30 Euro is a low-SAPS oil and not good for normal US gasoline sulfur levels. I have a VOA of the 5W30 Pennz Plat Euro L in the VOA forum; the US version of PP is better suited for your car.
I personally find it a little hard to believe that a mature design four cylinder Honda engine is so badly worn after ~120K that it consumes noticeable amounts of oil.
Certainly replace the PCV valve and carefully examine the associated tubing for restrictions.
I suspect that your problem might be related to the use of cheap high NOACK oils over the life of your car causing ring sticking. High NOACK within the API SN spec your car calls for is one if the dirty little secrets that proponents of cheap engine oils that "meet the spec" seem unaware of.
If I'm right, then there are some solvents to consider to help to free the rings and bring oil consumption down to a level that allows you to run MM oil drains with no need to add oil.
In most of CA, the climate is very moderate so there should be no need to do drains as frequently as you have, and the IOLM accounts for operating conditions anyway.
Certainly replace the PCV valve and carefully examine the associated tubing for restrictions.
I suspect that your problem might be related to the use of cheap high NOACK oils over the life of your car causing ring sticking. High NOACK within the API SN spec your car calls for is one if the dirty little secrets that proponents of cheap engine oils that "meet the spec" seem unaware of.
If I'm right, then there are some solvents to consider to help to free the rings and bring oil consumption down to a level that allows you to run MM oil drains with no need to add oil.
In most of CA, the climate is very moderate so there should be no need to do drains as frequently as you have, and the IOLM accounts for operating conditions anyway.
I don't know. I bought the car used with 76k miles on it,. Honestly I don't see what the big deal about doing long intervals is? Oil is freaking cheap in comparison to an engine. 6k oci seems good to me. The longest I've gone is 7200 oci, and that's bc I got busy with work and kids, and moving.
Pulled the pcv out yesterday, still clicked, cleaned and reinstalled
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: Swifty
Run 30 weight in it and call it a day your consumption should decrease. I have run 30wt in mine since the first OCI.
Does 30wt slow your Civic down at all compared to a 20wt? Is your Civic a K24 (I was thinking some models have them,maybe the Si?).
Didn't slow it down one bit. Yes the 2012 to 2015 SI's have the K24, K24Z7 one of several versions of the K24. Many don't remember but when introduced the K24 was spec'd for 30wt. My first K24 was a 2004 Acura TSX and it was spec'd for 5w/30. No harm in using it.
Originally Posted By: Swifty
Run 30 weight in it and call it a day your consumption should decrease. I have run 30wt in mine since the first OCI.
Does 30wt slow your Civic down at all compared to a 20wt? Is your Civic a K24 (I was thinking some models have them,maybe the Si?).
Didn't slow it down one bit. Yes the 2012 to 2015 SI's have the K24, K24Z7 one of several versions of the K24. Many don't remember but when introduced the K24 was spec'd for 30wt. My first K24 was a 2004 Acura TSX and it was spec'd for 5w/30. No harm in using it.
Originally Posted By: Bullwinkle007
I don't know. I bought the car used with 76k miles on it,. Honestly I don't see what the big deal about doing long intervals is? Oil is freaking cheap in comparison to an engine. 6k oci seems good to me. The longest I've gone is 7200 oci, and that's bc I got busy with work and kids, and moving.
Long drains are all about convenience. You've said so yourself in noting that you ran a 7.2K drain interval because you were busy with more important things.
Oil is cheap, but if you can change it less often without imperiling the engine in any way, then why wouldn't you?
Longer drains mean that when I hit 15% MM, I can start to plan the drain for when it works for me.
Long drains also mean that I can easily span the winter or at least wait for a warm dry day.
This may not mean much in Cali, but it can be huge here.
I don't know. I bought the car used with 76k miles on it,. Honestly I don't see what the big deal about doing long intervals is? Oil is freaking cheap in comparison to an engine. 6k oci seems good to me. The longest I've gone is 7200 oci, and that's bc I got busy with work and kids, and moving.
Long drains are all about convenience. You've said so yourself in noting that you ran a 7.2K drain interval because you were busy with more important things.
Oil is cheap, but if you can change it less often without imperiling the engine in any way, then why wouldn't you?
Longer drains mean that when I hit 15% MM, I can start to plan the drain for when it works for me.
Long drains also mean that I can easily span the winter or at least wait for a warm dry day.
This may not mean much in Cali, but it can be huge here.
Originally Posted By: Bullwinkle007
Pulled the pcv out yesterday, still clicked, cleaned and reinstalled
Put a new oem one in. Usually the internal spring breaks around the 60k mark. It still clicks even when the spring is broken.
Pulled the pcv out yesterday, still clicked, cleaned and reinstalled
Put a new oem one in. Usually the internal spring breaks around the 60k mark. It still clicks even when the spring is broken.
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Originally Posted By: Bullwinkle007
I don't know. I bought the car used with 76k miles on it,. Honestly I don't see what the big deal about doing long intervals is? Oil is freaking cheap in comparison to an engine. 6k oci seems good to me. The longest I've gone is 7200 oci, and that's bc I got busy with work and kids, and moving.
Long drains are all about convenience. You've said so yourself in noting that you ran a 7.2K drain interval because you were busy with more important things.
Oil is cheap, but if you can change it less often without imperiling the engine in any way, then why wouldn't you?
Longer drains mean that when I hit 15% MM, I can start to plan the drain for when it works for me.
Long drains also mean that I can easily span the winter or at least wait for a warm dry day.
This may not mean much in Cali, but it can be huge here.
True, I was watching a Mercedes mechanic on YouTube talk about long drain intervals and he was saying anything over 80000 miles on the engine you should really start doing oil changes around the 6,000 mark this is one engine wear darts occurring more rapidly. I used to do Long Haul Trucking and the company would do oil changes every 30000 miles but when engine oil would hit about 15,000 miles on it I start going through about a gallon about every week and a half so I think as the oil ages it starts breaking down and you start going through more of it in my honest opinion when you find this Mark probably a good time just to go ahead and change it anyways regardless of what kind of oil you're running
Originally Posted By: Bullwinkle007
I don't know. I bought the car used with 76k miles on it,. Honestly I don't see what the big deal about doing long intervals is? Oil is freaking cheap in comparison to an engine. 6k oci seems good to me. The longest I've gone is 7200 oci, and that's bc I got busy with work and kids, and moving.
Long drains are all about convenience. You've said so yourself in noting that you ran a 7.2K drain interval because you were busy with more important things.
Oil is cheap, but if you can change it less often without imperiling the engine in any way, then why wouldn't you?
Longer drains mean that when I hit 15% MM, I can start to plan the drain for when it works for me.
Long drains also mean that I can easily span the winter or at least wait for a warm dry day.
This may not mean much in Cali, but it can be huge here.
True, I was watching a Mercedes mechanic on YouTube talk about long drain intervals and he was saying anything over 80000 miles on the engine you should really start doing oil changes around the 6,000 mark this is one engine wear darts occurring more rapidly. I used to do Long Haul Trucking and the company would do oil changes every 30000 miles but when engine oil would hit about 15,000 miles on it I start going through about a gallon about every week and a half so I think as the oil ages it starts breaking down and you start going through more of it in my honest opinion when you find this Mark probably a good time just to go ahead and change it anyways regardless of what kind of oil you're running
My oil burn during the last oil change I used was Havoline PRO DS 0/20, the noack is 12% according to the spec sheet
I’ve tried 5w20 and 5w20 high mileage and 10w30 in my Accord and noticed no difference in consumption. My Accord burns about 1 quart every 1200 miles like clockwork.
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