Eneos 5W-30 VS Liqui Moly Longtime 5W-30. I usually stay with 5K oil change intervals for peace of mind. Mixed highway/city traffic.
2013 Mazdaspeed3
- Thread starter GeorgeWPAGA
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I know you’re asking about two oils. Do you expect something from them that you’d not get from Mobil 1 or Penzoil Platinum? (I owned a 2011 Mazdaspeed3 for 7 years and 100k miles before trading it in just a month ago.)
Not really no, I just have readily availability to both Liqui Moly and Eneos. Not really a fan on Mobil-1, never used pennzoil before.
After 100k miles using almost exclusively M1 5w30, driven hard, my ‘11 Speed3 still ran as new. Your biggest issue with that car’s engine is going to be the valves. They will accumulate carbon and you’ll loose power due to that. And no oil is any better than the other with respect to that problem. After 40k miles you’ll want to remove everything needed to access the valves and clean them. Trust that I know about these things. Some will claim a catch can, low volitility oils or running sea foam will clean them. Complete nonsense. Without cleaning them expect to lose a couple MPG’s and 50+ HP.
Any synthetic will be good for 5k, so just pick whichever is the better price and availability
I ran a 2007 MS3 from 2007 to 2016, putting 158k on it. I Started out with M1 5W-30 and a 5k OCI. I eventually extended the OCI to 7.5k miles. UOAs showed the OCI could likely be extended to 10k. A lot of "experts" on the Mazda forums badmouth M1, but whenever I posted one of my UOAs it became very quiet...
Oh I’ve read the stuff on the speed3 forums. Seems the magical elixir last time I read on one was Rotella T6. And anyone using M1 would immediately suffer a smoking turbo and engine failure before finishing off a tankful of gas. I’m not trying to sell him on M1. Just trying to find out his objective, or at least what he believes he will achieve using these oils.
Dang, kinda expensive oils you picking from esp at 5k OCI's.
If you're gonna spend that kinda $$, I'd get Redline or Amsoil.
What is a GFx oil?
Originally Posted By: Dyusik
For that use Supertech will do, but if you must, then LM. Eneos is a GFx oil, while LM is A3/B4 type, no science, just my personal preference.
Originally Posted By: Dyusik
For that use Supertech will do, but if you must, then LM. Eneos is a GFx oil, while LM is A3/B4 type, no science, just my personal preference.
Originally Posted By: digitalSniperX1
After 100k miles using almost exclusively M1 5w30, driven hard, my ‘11 Speed3 still ran as new. Your biggest issue with that car’s engine is going to be the valves. They will accumulate carbon and you’ll loose power due to that. And no oil is any better than the other with respect to that problem. After 40k miles you’ll want to remove everything needed to access the valves and clean them. Trust that I know about these things. Some will claim a catch can, low volitility oils or running sea foam will clean them. Complete nonsense. Without cleaning them expect to lose a couple MPG’s and 50+ HP.
One thing that does help at least with the intake valves is to remove the intake off the throttle body, and have someone hold the throttle around 4k rpms and spray berrymans carb cleaner down the intake. That will clean the back side of the valves, and the intake manifold, and the top of the Pistons.
After 100k miles using almost exclusively M1 5w30, driven hard, my ‘11 Speed3 still ran as new. Your biggest issue with that car’s engine is going to be the valves. They will accumulate carbon and you’ll loose power due to that. And no oil is any better than the other with respect to that problem. After 40k miles you’ll want to remove everything needed to access the valves and clean them. Trust that I know about these things. Some will claim a catch can, low volitility oils or running sea foam will clean them. Complete nonsense. Without cleaning them expect to lose a couple MPG’s and 50+ HP.
One thing that does help at least with the intake valves is to remove the intake off the throttle body, and have someone hold the throttle around 4k rpms and spray berrymans carb cleaner down the intake. That will clean the back side of the valves, and the intake manifold, and the top of the Pistons.
Originally Posted By: Bullwinkle007
Originally Posted By: digitalSniperX1
After 100k miles using almost exclusively M1 5w30, driven hard, my ‘11 Speed3 still ran as new. Your biggest issue with that car’s engine is going to be the valves. They will accumulate carbon and you’ll loose power due to that. And no oil is any better than the other with respect to that problem. After 40k miles you’ll want to remove everything needed to access the valves and clean them. Trust that I know about these things. Some will claim a catch can, low volitility oils or running sea foam will clean them. Complete nonsense. Without cleaning them expect to lose a couple MPG’s and 50+ HP.
One thing that does help at least with the intake valves is to remove the intake off the throttle body, and have someone hold the throttle around 4k rpms and spray berrymans carb cleaner down the intake. That will clean the back side of the valves, and the intake manifold, and the top of the Pistons.
What about using CRC GDI cleaner?
Originally Posted By: digitalSniperX1
After 100k miles using almost exclusively M1 5w30, driven hard, my ‘11 Speed3 still ran as new. Your biggest issue with that car’s engine is going to be the valves. They will accumulate carbon and you’ll loose power due to that. And no oil is any better than the other with respect to that problem. After 40k miles you’ll want to remove everything needed to access the valves and clean them. Trust that I know about these things. Some will claim a catch can, low volitility oils or running sea foam will clean them. Complete nonsense. Without cleaning them expect to lose a couple MPG’s and 50+ HP.
One thing that does help at least with the intake valves is to remove the intake off the throttle body, and have someone hold the throttle around 4k rpms and spray berrymans carb cleaner down the intake. That will clean the back side of the valves, and the intake manifold, and the top of the Pistons.
What about using CRC GDI cleaner?
Originally Posted By: GeorgeWPAGA
What is a GFx oil?
Originally Posted By: Dyusik
For that use Supertech will do, but if you must, then LM. Eneos is a GFx oil, while LM is A3/B4 type, no science, just my personal preference.
GFx is one of ILSAC Spec used in NA: GF-4, GF-5. In my Mazda6 2005 I used ACEA A3/B3 5W-30 just from the first oil change with wonderful results. Typically Mazda pushes first for Mazda ACEA A5/B5 oil (Total/Elf) which is similar to GF-4/5 for viscosity (SAE and HT/HS), but more robust in additives package. However, it also allows A3/B3/4. Most of those who used Mazda oil experienced an oil consumption already to 100K km, but mine was still OK at 160K km.
What is a GFx oil?
Originally Posted By: Dyusik
For that use Supertech will do, but if you must, then LM. Eneos is a GFx oil, while LM is A3/B4 type, no science, just my personal preference.
GFx is one of ILSAC Spec used in NA: GF-4, GF-5. In my Mazda6 2005 I used ACEA A3/B3 5W-30 just from the first oil change with wonderful results. Typically Mazda pushes first for Mazda ACEA A5/B5 oil (Total/Elf) which is similar to GF-4/5 for viscosity (SAE and HT/HS), but more robust in additives package. However, it also allows A3/B3/4. Most of those who used Mazda oil experienced an oil consumption already to 100K km, but mine was still OK at 160K km.
I am assuming this is good then? I decided to go with 5w40 on the next oil change. http://www.eneos.us/products/eneos-fully-synthetic-motor-oil/eneos-5w-40/
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