Toyota and 0w-20

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Sep 2, 2015
Messages
1,291
Location
Texas
Been curious about this for a while now. My wife's Toyota Sienna requires 0w-20, but the book says you can use 5w-20 in an emergency, but must change back to 0w-20 next OCI. Other than cold start properties and higher PAO in 0w-20, why would using a 5w-20 vs 0w-20 in California be a problem. For the record, not planning on switching away from 0w-20. What is it with 5w-20 vs 0w-20? Just curious. Thanks.
 
Last edited:
I switched over to a 5w in my wife's Sienna. We're in the sunny south so 5w oil would be better now that we're approach 150K.
I'll be honest, we used 0w Toyota oil for years, no problems yet I see 0 (zero) discernible differences in mpg, smoothness, quietness, and seat of pants horsepower.
 
Thanks for the info. Speak2Mountain. Might use my stash of 5w-20 for Sienna if I ever sell my car early. Curious if Toyota knows something we don't on 5w vs 0w. Appreciate it.
 
I believe the 0w-20 requirement is because they are encouraging a synthetic oil.

I think a 5w-20 synthetic would also be fine.
 
At engine temp, 5W20 and 0W20 should be the same thing. Only matters as temps head south.

I thought the 5W20 could be made from conventional oil, while 0W20 basically "forces" the oil maker into a synthetic? As in, in order to hit the specs, it has to qualify as a synthetic.
 
Might be the PAO % for their 1 year 10,000 OCI with 0w-20. Good point supton.
 
Originally Posted By: supton
At engine temp, 5W20 and 0W20 should be the same thing. Only matters as temps head south.

I thought the 5W20 could be made from conventional oil, while 0W20 basically "forces" the oil maker into a synthetic? As in, in order to hit the specs, it has to qualify as a synthetic.


That’s what I thought, too...
 
Originally Posted By: supton
At engine temp, 5W20 and 0W20 should be the same thing. Only matters as temps head south.

I thought the 5W20 could be made from conventional oil, while 0W20 basically "forces" the oil maker into a synthetic? As in, in order to hit the specs, it has to qualify as a synthetic.


There are many synthetic blend 0w20 oils on the market. CP/76 makes a bunch of them. Pennzoil makes a 0w20 in their gold line as well.
 
Last edited:
I've noticed by looking at product data sheets that 0W20's are a little bit thicker at operating temperatures than 5W20's.
 
If the 0w20 delivers the barest bit of MPG gain, that is reason enough. I get that, but are there oil pressure dependent variable valve timing widgets or chain guides that require such a thin oil? I drank the Toyota coolaid, simply by noticing what my extended family drives. I'm a motor head, but I'm blissfully ignorant of the workings of the side wise 4 banger, wrong wheel drive appliance. Does it really have electric steering? When I changed the hot oil, the watery stuff didn't give me the warm fuzzies that a 10w or a 20w does.
 
Agreed: If it delivers even slightly better mileage than its worth it! My 2008 Sienna has now completed 160,000 miles with the exclusive use of 0W20 Mobil 1. As the Sienna is a "constant tow vehicle for a commercial operation, towing well above its factory recommendation, it seems that the 0W20 offers excellent protection against wear. The oil still reads full when I change at 10,000 mile intervals.....seems like new.....so I certainly will continue.
Oh, and it was -10 f this morning.....dang the engine spins like summertime when you hit the starter!
 
Toyota's 0w-20 does not have any appreciable amount of PAO in it according to the MSDS (at least the Mobil version). It's predominantly Group III:

 
Originally Posted By: fsskier
My 2008 Sienna has now completed 160,000 miles with the exclusive use of 0W20 Mobil 1. As the Sienna is a "constant tow vehicle for a commercial operation, towing well above its factory recommendation, it seems that the 0W20 offers excellent protection against wear. The oil still reads full when I change at 10,000 mile intervals.....seems like new.....so I certainly will continue.


There must be some mistake... that watery oil can't possibly do that!
 
Originally Posted By: andyd
If the 0w20 delivers the barest bit of MPG gain, that is reason enough. I get that, but are there oil pressure dependent variable valve timing widgets or chain guides that require such a thin oil? I drank the Toyota coolaid, simply by noticing what my extended family drives. I'm a motor head, but I'm blissfully ignorant of the workings of the side wise 4 banger, wrong wheel drive appliance. Does it really have electric steering? When I changed the hot oil, the watery stuff didn't give me the warm fuzzies that a 10w or a 20w does.


The same engines in other countries(except us and Canada) but including Puerto Rico still use a temperature chart for oil viscosity recommendations.
The engine will operate fine at a wide range of viscosities. Hydraulic pressure operated timing controls and that is tolerant.
That being said you can not go wrong running 0w20 all the time. Or 0w40 or 5w30.as long as it is appropriate for the service.
 
Originally Posted By: fsskier
Agreed: If it delivers even slightly better mileage than its worth it! My 2008 Sienna has now completed 160,000 miles with the exclusive use of 0W20 Mobil 1. As the Sienna is a "constant tow vehicle for a commercial operation, towing well above its factory recommendation, it seems that the 0W20 offers excellent protection against wear. The oil still reads full when I change at 10,000 mile intervals.....seems like new.....so I certainly will continue.
Oh, and it was -10 f this morning.....dang the engine spins like summertime when you hit the starter!


It's been a while hearing from you, but your success with M1 0-20 was the reason I finally changed from 5-20 to 0-20 back several years ago. Since then I have put some 425K on 3 different Ford Duratech engines at 10K OCIs. My 2007 Focus was totaled last June with 175K and runnin great. No signs of engine wear at all, all engines are like new clean, and no oil consumption in 10K.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Yah-Tah-Hey
WHY??? would you use a 5W-20 when you can use a 0W-20???
How 'bout less VI improver polymer to form deposits, and lower volatility (typically, depending on brand)?
 
Originally Posted By: supton
At engine temp, 5W20 and 0W20 should be the same thing. Only matters as temps head south.

I thought the 5W20 could be made from conventional oil, while 0W20 basically "forces" the oil maker into a synthetic? As in, in order to hit the specs, it has to qualify as a synthetic.
I agree. Its easier and cheaper to require a quality motor oil without going through what GM did with there DEXOS1. So this is my take, would the 5w20 you buy, be available in the 0w20? Like you buy Pennzoil Gold 5w20. You can get Pennzoil Gold 0w20, but not Pennzoil Yellow Bottle in 0w20. So yes, I believe you could run the Pennzoil Gold 5w20 the recommended OCI, but not the Pennzoil YB 5w20. But why buy 5w20 when you could buy 0w20 for the same price?
 
Originally Posted By: Yah-Tah-Hey
WHY??? would you use a 5W-20 when you can use a 0W-20???

Why run 0w20when you can run 0w40?

There are plenty of servicable options.
 
Originally Posted By: CR94
Originally Posted By: Yah-Tah-Hey
WHY??? would you use a 5W-20 when you can use a 0W-20???
How 'bout less VI improver polymer to form deposits, and lower volatility (typically, depending on brand)?


That may not be the case here.

M1 EP/AP 0w-20 is 60-70% PAO, whilst the regular M1 5w-20 is 20-30% PAO, 20-30% Group III.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top