1999 Accord with 191k Miles

Status
Not open for further replies.
Hey everyone. My car is the 4 cylinder model (F23A1). Guess it can't hurt to ask the old couple a LITTLE bit more. I don't think this transmission is doomed. Like I said, it just slips a bit from 1-2 in specific situations. I hear cleaning the solenoids and a fluid change would help a bit. We will see in the Spring!
 
FWIW, I used the Castrol Import ATF (got it at Wal-Mart, it's spec'd to replace the Honda fluid)....fine so far and a decent savings. I have put 8K+ on it in a little over a month, drives great!
 
Like I said, I recently did a timing belt on my 2000 Accord. If you end up doing it yourself, please get a hold of me and I will gladly share what I learned during the job.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: RyanGreener
Hey everyone. My car is the 4 cylinder model (F23A1). Guess it can't hurt to ask the old couple a LITTLE bit more. I don't think this transmission is doomed. Like I said, it just slips a bit from 1-2 in specific situations. I hear cleaning the solenoids and a fluid change would help a bit. We will see in the Spring!


A simple drain/fill helped when my 99 Accord F23 started to slip between 1st and 2nd.
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: c502cid
Can you really tell timing belt condition by visual inspection? I just did two of them, both unknown histories and they looked great. I wasn't taking chances though.

I've done a lot of timing belt changes and like you, every one of them has looked just fine even after nearly 100,000 miles. It's not usually the belt itself that fails but the tensioner and idler pulley bearings (and the water pump).


Exactly. When I did the timing belt on my 300ZX at 100,000 miles,the belt looked brand new as if it just came out of the package. It's usually the something else besides the belt that fails,pulley,tensioner,etc. I replaced everything while I was in there. All of the rubber,water pump,tensioners,pulleys,hoses,seals,thermostat,etc.
 
We had a '99 LX four cylinder 5spd we bought new in August of that year for $16.8.
It never used enough oil to require adds between drains out to the 175K we ran it, but the longest I ever ran the oil was 7K and I always used synthetic in it. The 7K run was on PP and there's a UOA of it posted here if anyone cares to search for it.
We also had a '97 LX four cylinder 5spd which had the closely related 2.2. It would sometimes need a quart after 4K or so but not always over the 207K that I sold it at.
We also had an '02 automatic for a while that I bought cheaply at 119K for one of my sons to use. It suffered gradually worsening shift flares but soldiered on for around 35K in that condition.
I suspect table limit drains of 7.5K on conventional oil have gummed up the rings on your freebie, so a solvent approach to free them might yield good results. A piston soak might be a good first effort.
These are very nice driving Accords and are probably my favorite out of the Gen 5,6,7 & 8 cars.
Our '12 neither tracks nor handles nearly as well as did our '99.
 
My buddy has a 2000 Accord V6 with 420k miles. I just did the valve cover gaskets, oil pan reseal, plugs, hoses and a bunch of small maintenance stuff. The inside of the motor looked brand new and this car runs excellent. He got it with somewhere around 300k miles and we just been using Mobil Super high mileage every 5k miles since. It's $16 a jug and semi-syn.
 
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
My buddy has a 2000 Accord V6 with 420k miles. I just did the valve cover gaskets, oil pan reseal, plugs, hoses and a bunch of small maintenance stuff. The inside of the motor looked brand new and this car runs excellent. He got it with somewhere around 300k miles and we just been using Mobil Super high mileage every 5k miles since. It's $16 a jug and semi-syn.


That’s all the BiL ran to reach 400k with his 5.3L and it was bulk and bulk Mobil filters …
The 4L60e was getting sleepy but he still got a wholesaler level trade on new GMC …
 
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
My buddy has a 2000 Accord V6 with 420k miles. I just did the valve cover gaskets, oil pan reseal, plugs, hoses and a bunch of small maintenance stuff. The inside of the motor looked brand new and this car runs excellent. He got it with somewhere around 300k miles and we just been using Mobil Super high mileage every 5k miles since. It's $16 a jug and semi-syn.


Not bad. I guess I'll just keep it simple and run the cheapest high mileage oil I can find at wally world. I see Castrol GTX and Pennzoil High Mileage for the same price (~17$) at walmart.
 
Originally Posted By: RyanGreener
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
My buddy has a 2000 Accord V6 with 420k miles. I just did the valve cover gaskets, oil pan reseal, plugs, hoses and a bunch of small maintenance stuff. The inside of the motor looked brand new and this car runs excellent. He got it with somewhere around 300k miles and we just been using Mobil Super high mileage every 5k miles since. It's $16 a jug and semi-syn.


Not bad. I guess I'll just keep it simple and run the cheapest high mileage oil I can find at wally world. I see Castrol GTX and Pennzoil High Mileage for the same price (~17$) at walmart.


That really would work well. One note, not sure about the other HM oils - but Mobil Super is a semi-synthetic as is Valvoline Max Life red jug. If you want a full synthetic there is always Mobil 1 HM and Valvoline Max Life Synthetic along with others.
 
Skip Seafoam altogether, especially in the brake booster. Just bleed the brakes until clean fluid comes out but keep an eye on the master cylinder and always keep fluid in it while bleeding.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top