Rate and critique/correct my work?
- Thread starter R18Civic
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3800 heads, the lower is fully ported by a local shop n I failed to check the intake on the head. He told me to just go in 1/2 to a 3/4” in and match it to the gasket. I was going to do bowl work and exhaust work too but those areas are too delicate my burrs have a 3 in shank. Ruined the first two ports trying to go as deep as possible and using the wrong bit in the corners. I’m hoping this going to suffice.
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And despite the look of some corners everything is smooth as can be and even to both eye and touch. I’m just concerned about the transition from my work to the stock finish. I was told to get an 80 grit finish which is slightly smoother than the lower. I figured it’d come out rougher.
Bolted the lower on and it’s almost a match aside. Can anyone recommend a good item or product for scribing? Most of my issues aside from corners is finding a reliable way to mark the gasket opening that won’t go away after getting blasted with iron shavings and WD40. Tried spray paint which is too messy and painters tape that gets soggy and flimsy around the corners.
Originally Posted By: Hemispheres
Bolted the lower on and it’s almost a match aside. Can anyone recommend a good item or product for scribing? Most of my issues aside from corners is finding a reliable way to mark the gasket opening that won’t go away after getting blasted with iron shavings and WD40. Tried spray paint which is too messy and painters tape that gets soggy and flimsy around the corners.
Layout Fluid, I like Blue.....Some like Red, Depends on your eyes!
Bolted the lower on and it’s almost a match aside. Can anyone recommend a good item or product for scribing? Most of my issues aside from corners is finding a reliable way to mark the gasket opening that won’t go away after getting blasted with iron shavings and WD40. Tried spray paint which is too messy and painters tape that gets soggy and flimsy around the corners.
Layout Fluid, I like Blue.....Some like Red, Depends on your eyes!
I'm curious what your trying to achieve? 3800's are low RPM torque engines. The only effective way to add power without a Power Adder (Nitrous, Supercharger, Turbocharger) is to spin the engine at a much higher RPM & raise the Compression Ratio which would require a bunch of supporting modifications......And still get your doors blown off by a well tuned Forced Induction car with a bone stock long block!
You could find a wrecked Lacrosse Super & swap in the LS4 5.3L....Delete the AFM, Add a mild performance camshaft & make 320hp/320tq real easy!!
You could find a wrecked Lacrosse Super & swap in the LS4 5.3L....Delete the AFM, Add a mild performance camshaft & make 320hp/320tq real easy!!
I’m already running ER Rockers which extend power out past 5000rpm, replaced the plastic runners with an insert that opens the upper plenum decreasing the runners from 3 1/2 to 1 inch tall, tubular exhaust manifolds. All I’m doing is opening the intake port in the head to match the larger lower intake runners. For no other reason but to port match except by tapering instead of opening it up the full length of the port and blend into the bowl etc. The engine shop that did my lower recommended the 1/2 to 3/4 depth.
Originally Posted By: Hemispheres
And is it normal for these burrs to remove so much without producing heat? The drill requires pressure to cut properly. The die grinder literally shaves it away like it’s aluminum
Cast Iron cuts VERY easily, Easier than Aluminum in my opinion as it doesn't clog up the tool. You need to slow a Die Grinder down! I find multiple speed electric die grinders to work best. I haven't done head port work in years as CNC machines are much better & repeatable. I'll hand port a throttle body or a blower inlet here & there....But that's about it.
And is it normal for these burrs to remove so much without producing heat? The drill requires pressure to cut properly. The die grinder literally shaves it away like it’s aluminum
Cast Iron cuts VERY easily, Easier than Aluminum in my opinion as it doesn't clog up the tool. You need to slow a Die Grinder down! I find multiple speed electric die grinders to work best. I haven't done head port work in years as CNC machines are much better & repeatable. I'll hand port a throttle body or a blower inlet here & there....But that's about it.
Unfortunately my die grinder nor my dremel have variable speed. I’ve heard you can buy adapters for drills to change rpm capability but after all I’ve spent on this I’m not gonna be grabbing another die grinder unless it’s cheap. The one I have just has the metal lever arm with the pin under the arm that controls throttle, not much I can do to regulate.
That’s just great. My die grinder was the cheapest unit Walmart has and runs 25k rpm, no telling with how old the drill is it’s speeds. The bits seem to be holding up fine. I had to carve with the drill but with the die grinder I lightly skim or it’ll chew the iron up like it’s butter.
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Originally Posted By: Hemispheres
I pulled the heads to retrieve metal shavings and the first head I pulled was cracked between valves and later found the crack extended through the exhaust suit almost 3/4 inch into the exhaust bowl literally following the casting mark.
Not surprised really....... I have "Fluxed" many cylinder heads to find cracks in the valve seat area off engines that have "never" been overheated or have the symptoms of a cracked head as the crack hasn't made it's way to a water jacket.
I pulled the heads to retrieve metal shavings and the first head I pulled was cracked between valves and later found the crack extended through the exhaust suit almost 3/4 inch into the exhaust bowl literally following the casting mark.
Not surprised really....... I have "Fluxed" many cylinder heads to find cracks in the valve seat area off engines that have "never" been overheated or have the symptoms of a cracked head as the crack hasn't made it's way to a water jacket.
NAPA sells a mini regulator that works with a 1/4 flex line, slowing down speed will make it much more controllable. If you have had bowl work done, gasket matching ports is a good idea. Good luck with your project, sure not an average DIY project.
Bit feels better at 30psi. More prone to skipping but controllable and now there’s not a shower of iron bits flying all over but it cuts. Only thing that’s bothering me is this white stuff thats appearing on the machined surface metal. All I did was scrape the last lil bit of gasket material off the block in all the heavy areas and the ring around each cylinder. Mainly bolt holes and coolant galleys as well as the casting that acts as transition between head and china wall. Soaked remaining material with a shop rag saturated with simple green straight no water and laid it over problem areas before grabbing the dremel and a plastic wire wheel bit going very easily over the surface. After that I noticed areas that look they have some white build up that looks like lime or calcium but is completely flush with the block and fades with wd40 and wire brush but becomes solid again if I used WD40 on paper-towels. Also have a similar area in my cylinder liner that appeared after I used the brush with WD40 to remove rust. Also on the trans bell housing and throttle body I now have what looks like white mold spores pretty much the same shade as these spots on the deck and cylinder liner.
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