1999 Accord with 191k Miles

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Hello everyone. I'm new here and I've done a lot of research but I'd like to ask here anyway. I recieved a 1999 Accord for free with 191k miles and it has an unknown maintenance history, but actually, it seems like it was surprisingly well maintained. I've done a few replacements of parts and this thing runs like a champ, but when I did the valve cover gasket/valve adjustment job I noticed it was sorta dirty in there. Also, it uses half a quart per 2500 miles. My goal is to spend as little money on this car as possible (which has worked great actually) but I figure if I'm doing routine maintenance (oil changes) I can try something that might help pep it up. I also have recieved Gumout Fuel Additive and Seafoam for free (notice the theme I'm going for here? FREE!) This was the plan I had to cover all my bases:

1) Seafoam brake booster line + crank case at around 200 miles before my next OCI. Gumout additive on a full tank before my OCI (400 miles before probably)
2) Changing oil to a oil with high cleaning ability (HDEO like Rotella T6 or Pennzoil Ultra) + Spark Plug Change (it needs plugs)
3) Next Oil change after would be either Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage/Pennzoil Conventional High Mileage

Then from there on out do whatever. What do you all think? I know there's debates of seafoam in the crank case but I don't care about this motor too much for the most part but I figure I might as well try to see what all the fuss is about. This is my fun experimental car to be honest (new motors for this thing sell for 300 bucks so I'm not worried)
 
Uhmmm, before doing any Seafoam through the brake booster & crankcase(do this as a last case), try changing the PCV as this alone may help/aid in reducing the oil consumption. Otherwise,(and I'm not joking) for 191K miles, 1/2 qt of oil every 2500 miles isn't too bad "in my honest opinion"(IMHO).

If you want to run the Gumout through the fuel system via the gas tank, this probably won't hurt. However, what Gumout is it?... All-in-One, Regane, what?

You don't want to open a can of worms either by doing too much. Ask here first(which you are doing) and get a concesis.
 
I've already changed the PCV valve/valve cover gasket. It COULD be the valve seals too, but currently this winter I'm too lazy to do that. I'm running 5W-20 right now which is on the ligher side (I hear these motors were spec'd to 5W-30 in the past). Also, it is Gumout Multi System tuneup. Got it for free so I figured I might as well try it. It seems to be one of those things that helps, or does nothing. (Haven't seen any reports of adverse effects)

Just trying to experiment with this car because I'd like to have an idea what to do in the future with other beaters I acquire. I have 3 cars so if this car pops it's no problem (plus I paid nothing for it)
 
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I would run Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 from here on out, it should help clean up the motor over time. I personally wouldn't bother with seafoam through the brake booster or crankcase. The weak link on this generation is the auto transmission. I would do 3 drain and refills via the drain plug with Honda ATF DW-1.
 
Please pay attention to the timing belt, it can be a killer if the goes south. The original oil spec is 5W30 and oil consumption at that mileage isn't unusual especially when driven in hilly country with lost of off throttle time.
Smoky
 
I was just about to mention the timing belt..

I am in a similar situation-acquired a 2000 Accord for next to nothing. I have done a ton of maintenance, including the timing belt. RockAuto sells the complete kit with water pump. You will need the crank tool to remove the crank pulley bolt.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/auto...mp;gclsrc=aw.ds

Make this a priority, if the belt brakes you will bend valves, possibly damage pistons, etc.

I can link you to a good video on doing the job later.
 
Skip the sea foam. Pennzoil Platinum (Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage is also a wonderful oil) and enjoy your new car! Also do the transmission fluid,break fluid,power steering fluid,and coolant drain/refill.
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Thanks for all the heads up guys. I have this free seefoam/gumout stuff just laying around with no use. I was itching to experiment but I guess it's a waste of time anyway.

Surprisingly this auto transmission is doing fine with the occasional slips from 1-2 when I'm "on the throttle" and above 3000 RPM. I'm going to clean the solenoids and drain/refill with Honda Fluid in the Spring.
 
Friend had a 1999 Accord V6 EX. Trans destroyed itself at 99K while driving real easily on a 40 mph road DURING A TEST DRIVE.

And the prospective buyer CAME BACK after we had the trannie fixed. That was 2006.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Skip the sea foam. Pennzoil Platinum (Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage is also a wonderful oil) and enjoy your new car! Also do the transmission fluid,break fluid,power steering fluid,and coolant drain/refill.
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Was doing some research last night and have concluded that I'll be switching to PPHM for both my vehicles.
 
To be fair, I knew the old couple where I got this car from and this car was dealership maintained. The maintenance is unknown to me, but it's known to them (they have all the records). I don't feel like asking them for the records because honestly, there's absolutely NOTHING wrong with this car. I wonder if they had the trans rebuilt/replaced during their ownership.
 
If your looking for more pep -- change the spark plugs ASAP. Also, when doing your drain & refills with Honda Automatic fluid -- add a bottle of Lube Guard Red on your last drain/refill. I personally have had good results using the Lube Guard Red in older auto transmissions. Another vote to skip the Seafoam in the brake booster or crankcase. Run acouple short 2-3000 mile intervals using cheap SN rated conventional with a cheap filter like Super Tech and then proceed to a 5W30 High Mileage oil with a great filter like a Fram Ultra. Good luck & keep us posted on your updates.


Dale
 
I had a 98 Special Edition..same car for the most part.

If someone gave it to me for free not knowing the history here is what i would do..

Inspect brakes all the way around
Inspect Radiator (i think there was an issue with these in my model) they leak around the top due to the plastic.
Inspect Timing Belt- there should be an inspection plate
Inspect Belts
Inspect PCV (be careful the hose will be brittle unless someone has changed it, prepare to buy a new hose).

If i planned on keeping it awhile-
Plugs and wires
Transmission Fluid- Valvoline Maxlife Dex/Merc
Inspect motor mounts and suspension (if original suspension keep an eye on the tires).

If you are itching to use your Gumout and Seafoam do it before your plug and oil change.
 
What engine? The four cylinder is an F series motor... they're without a doubt one of Honda's most reliable engines. If it's the V6 they're almost as bullet proof, but as others have said the auto transmission will eventually become a problem.

If it's the 2.3L, that automatic is about as bulletproof as the engine.

Originally Posted By: RyanGreener
Also, it uses half a quart per 2500 miles.


That's actually really low for an F motor, and about normal for the V6. Nothing to worry about. Especially if you're using 5w20.

I think you're on the right track with running a quality high mileage 5w30. Both my F-motor Accords were high mileage (the 95 was over 320K km and the 99 was at 255k) and if I didn't use a high mileage oil, I'd go through 2 quarts over a 5000km OCI. The high mileage stuff kept that around a quart over the same interval.

Originally Posted By: RyanGreener
Surprisingly this auto transmission is doing fine with the occasional slips from 1-2 when I'm "on the throttle" and above 3000 RPM.

Originally Posted By: RyanGreener
To be fair, I knew the old couple where I got this car from and this car was dealership maintained. The maintenance is unknown to me, but it's known to them (they have all the records). I don't feel like asking them for the records because honestly, there's absolutely NOTHING wrong with this car. I wonder if they had the trans rebuilt/replaced during their ownership.


I'm sorry to say, but if it's the V6 transmission and it's already slipping it's a matter of time before it gets worse or catastrophically fails. The fact that it's an older couple is probably the only reason it's still working!

It might be worth asking them about it. I can't imagine they've had the trans rebuilt already, though. It's at the mileage where most of them start coming apart.

There's lots of info out there about the process though, as it was so common with them.

EDIT: And as Smoky pointed out, if you can't get any info about the timing belt from the previous owners, INSPECT IT ASAP. The J series engines (and most older Honda belt engines in general) are very picky about their timing belt maintenance and spec 60k miles for severe duty, 100k miles for non severe service. Pull the cover off and make sure the belt seems in good shape. If it seems worn, cracked, or damaged in any way, have the belt replaced as soon as you possibly can. If the belt lets go, your valves will be introduced to your pistons in short order.
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I assumed it was the 4cylinder due to him saying he replaced the valve cover gasket..not gaskets.. and he said he adjusted the valves..which the 6cyl would be a real bear to do.
 
Originally Posted By: JimmyD
What engine? The four cylinder is an F series motor... they're without a doubt one of Honda's most reliable engines. If it's the V6 they're almost as bullet proof, but as others have said the auto transmission will eventually become a problem.

If it's the 2.3L, that automatic is about as bulletproof as the engine.

Originally Posted By: RyanGreener
Also, it uses half a quart per 2500 miles.


That's actually really low for an F motor, and about normal for the V6. Nothing to worry about. Especially if you're using 5w20.

I think you're on the right track with running a quality high mileage 5w30. Both my F-motor Accords were high mileage (the 95 was over 320K km and the 99 was at 255k) and if I didn't use a high mileage oil, I'd go through 2 quarts over a 5000km OCI. The high mileage stuff kept that around a quart over the same interval.

Originally Posted By: RyanGreener
Surprisingly this auto transmission is doing fine with the occasional slips from 1-2 when I'm "on the throttle" and above 3000 RPM.

Originally Posted By: RyanGreener
To be fair, I knew the old couple where I got this car from and this car was dealership maintained. The maintenance is unknown to me, but it's known to them (they have all the records). I don't feel like asking them for the records because honestly, there's absolutely NOTHING wrong with this car. I wonder if they had the trans rebuilt/replaced during their ownership.


I'm sorry to say, but if it's the V6 transmission and it's already slipping it's a matter of time before it gets worse or catastrophically fails. The fact that it's an older couple is probably the only reason it's still working!

It might be worth asking them about it. I can't imagine they've had the trans rebuilt already, though. It's at the mileage where most of them start coming apart.

There's lots of info out there about the process though, as it was so common with them.

EDIT: And as Smoky pointed out, if you can't get any info about the timing belt from the previous owners, INSPECT IT ASAP. The J series engines (and most older Honda belt engines in general) are very picky about their timing belt maintenance and spec 60k miles for severe duty, 100k miles for non severe service. Pull the cover off and make sure the belt seems in good shape. If it seems worn, cracked, or damaged in any way, have the belt replaced as soon as you possibly can. If the belt lets go, your valves will be introduced to your pistons in short order.
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Can you really tell timing belt condition by visual inspection? I just did two of them, both unknown histories and they looked great. I wasn't taking chances though.
 
Originally Posted By: c502cid
Can you really tell timing belt condition by visual inspection? I just did two of them, both unknown histories and they looked great. I wasn't taking chances though.

I've done a lot of timing belt changes and like you, every one of them has looked just fine even after nearly 100,000 miles. It's not usually the belt itself that fails but the tensioner and idler pulley bearings (and the water pump).
 
Originally Posted By: RyanGreener
To be fair, I knew the old couple where I got this car from and this car was dealership maintained. The maintenance is unknown to me, but it's known to them (they have all the records). I don't feel like asking them for the records because honestly, there's absolutely NOTHING wrong with this car. I wonder if they had the trans rebuilt/replaced during their ownership.


Ask them kindly if they would mind discussing the car, tranny, maintenance etc. and again, how much you appriceate the car.
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Originally Posted By: c502cid
Can you really tell timing belt condition by visual inspection? I just did two of them, both unknown histories and they looked great. I wasn't taking chances though.


No, but if a visual inspection reveals a belt in poor condition it needs to be replaced ASAP. I'd be more likely to trust a good looking belt to last me long enough to save up for a replacement, but who knows; this could be the original belt hanging on by a thread.

As kschachn said, I'd probably replace it anyway if I didn't have history on the car. It's anecdotal, but Hondas here have been notoriously hard on their belts (which I suppose is why Honda specs a 60k mile severe interval; I'm in Canada).

Originally Posted By: krismoriah72
I assumed it was the 4cylinder due to him saying he replaced the valve cover gasket..not gaskets.. and he said he adjusted the valves..which the 6cyl would be a real bear to do.



I assumed it was the V6 as he said he had transmission issues... the four cylinder autos were far more robust. Both of mine were around his mileage and they still worked great. But your theory makes more sense!
 
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If you do not want to get the MX records from the previous owners, I would call the dealership, be friendly, introduce yourself as a future customer and try to get the records from them. If not available, consider the timing belt due immediately.
 
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