Replace copper supply line with copper or PEX ?

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I have a house from the 1970's and have found that a long horizontal run of the copper hot water supply pipe is developing some pin hole leaks. I have had two leaks that have been repaired over the past couple of years and see the signs of more problems.

From reading forums this can be from small bit's of iron that come from the hot water tank that settle down on the copper (inside) and corrosion sets up. With enough time, you get a small greenish looking area and eventually a leak.

I can easily get to most of the horizontal run and plan to replace most of it (about 30-40 feet). I plan to have a plumber do the work but don't know if I should ask for copper pipe since all of the supply lines are copper; or let them splice in a long section of PEX, since that seems to be what many are doing now?

Also if you agree that it's OK to go with the PEX, anyone know of the best type of transition fitting to request b/t the copper and PEX? I know there are the "Sharkbits" that are commonly used because they are "cheap" and easy to install. However, I'm not sure they are the best, and most secure fitting and would like to do it right. What fittings should I request if we agree to splice in PEX ?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
 
I don't know for sure, but that never stopped me from replying! I think I'd go with PEX so that the line can bend and flex easily and use crimped fittings.
 
Pex is the way to go. Less joints because it can bend and if it is in a freezing are it will hold up better and not crack if water freezes in it.
 
Use the Pex, will work great and is cheaper. Use the cinch install method with the stainless steel rings. 1 tool will work with the 3 most common sizes.

And don't use Snakebites in any place you can't get to easily to inspect and/or replace. Do it right the first time so there is no 2nd time. Solder on a copper to Pex fitting. Use copper stubs for your lines to the toilet and sinks.
 
PEX is the material of choice. If your water is acidic enough to attack copper pipe you should phase out using copper pipe. This happens with well water.
 
Had an old mobile home I used as a cabin. Same phenomenon. The copper pipes were so leaky, the mice were drinking from it. Ripped it all out and went to Pex. The crossovers are no big deal. Ask the plumber what he recommends and don't force him to do something he doesn't recommend. That would be my two cents.

SF
 
I've replaced a lot of my copper with PEX. Not because of an issue with my copper, but because of moving my hot water heater, moving my water softener, adding a bathroom, etc. Sharkbite fittings or similar ones from other brands are easy, but definitely not cheap. I also think there is more risk of a leak down the road due to the o-ring seals. They may outlast the copper however? Nobody really knows. It is much cheaper and would seem more reliable to do what Jimzz said, solder on PEX fittings to the ends of the copper you are leaving in place and then use the crimp rings to hold the PEX to the copper fitting. They are cheap, reliable, and easy if you can solder. If you are hiring a plumber, I would think that is what they will do. I'd ask as I got quotes how they plan to do it. As a do it yourself-er, I prefer the SS crimp rings also because one tool does all the sizes. The tool only needs to access one side of the fitting as well so they work well in tighter spots.
 
I've had several of those pin hole leaks in my copper water lines. PITA. Had to open up wall and a ceiling to repair. I just spliced in Sharkbites and copper pipe. Never had a pinhole in my basement where I can easily change out the piping.

Copper pipe was extremely expensive a few years ago. Don't know if that's still the case.

You should consider doing the job yourself. Other than about 10 trips back and forth to Home Depot or the plumbing supply shop to get the correct fittings, you should be fine.
 
Tell your plumber in advance what you want. He just might show up with copper and then gripe about having to go buy PEX.

I agree with going the PEX route.
 
I have specified PEX where practical for all of the commercial work I have had done recently, with crimp ring transitions from copper to PEX. None of this has given any trouble, but none of it is very old.

I had an irritating problem with a plumbing inspector who, after the fact, required some sort of bushing around the PEX where it ran through any type of framing material.
 
If you want the best, get Uponor fittings. They make ones that are strong enough to be mounted underground.

If it was DIY I would say just solder a new copper pipe on but a pro will have the crimpers so terminate pex so you might as well.
 
i would go with PEX all the way. I used to have 2 Fourplex apartment buildings with the old Galvinized water pipe in them. Needless to say the day came to replace the water lines in both buildings. i made an access hole cut behind each shower in the bedroom closets, cut the galvanized loose and attached the pex to it with a chinese handcuff clamp, went to the basement and cut the galvanized loose there and began dropping the old pipe and cutting it 5 foot at a time and pulling the pex down with it and once the pex appeared in the basement i simply grabbed it and walked across the basement with it and set it into the water manifolds i set for each apartment. I never dreamed it would pull down from the second floor apartment into the basement so easy but it took about 45 minutes per apartment. After the initial outlay for the compression tool and some compression bands and fittings it was way cheaper and easier than copper. At the time the pex was 1/10th the cost of copper so i was able to do all 8 units for less than the cost of doing 1 in copper.... one note make sure you have about an 18 inch copper section coming out of the water heater on the hot side to protect the pex from the inital blast of hot water.
 
I would only consider PEX as an option...

Everyone here is giving you good information.

I own a contracting company & have an in-house licensed plumber on staff, we basically strictly use PEX for all our projects (except the near boiler piping). We use the ProPex expansion system but all the systems work, it will really be determined by which system your chooses plumber uses / has the tools for... but they all work well.

I don't believe you find a plumber that will recommend using Sharkbites if he has the tooling for any other system & if he does I might look elsewhere. Sharkbites are not that inexpensive & although we use them, it is only in an emergency or to cap some pipes while doing demo during a project. We never use them as the permanent solution; they work but we have had failures with them also.
 
Pex and sharkbites!

I have some upcoming plumbing projects and that's all I'm planning on using! I actually need to get going on them pretty soon ...

The guy at lowes told me I was a "P--- poor plumber" for even thinking about using pex and sharkbites.
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Pex and sharkbites!

I have some upcoming plumbing projects and that's all I'm planning on using! I actually need to get going on them pretty soon ...

The guy at lowes told me I was a "P--- poor plumber" for even thinking about using pex and sharkbites.


Real plumbers hate sharkbites.
 
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