2016 Volvo XC60 dealer used 10W-30 instead of 5w-2

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I had my 30k service done at Volvo now in Arizona (where I bought the car) the dealer was using 5w-20 and the car states 5w-20. However, now I had the car serviced in VA and the dealer used 10W-30. The dealer stated that it's the correct weight for the location. I mean I am taking his word on it but in reality, is it?

Also, when I opened the oil cap the oil under the cap was still brown (shouldn't it be honey? if new oil?). The car doesn't have a dipstick so I can't check the color of the oil via dipstick. Yes I know that color doesn't mean anything but still if a new oil is added and the car is only driven 3 miles, shouldn't the color of the oil under the cap (at the engine portion not the cap portion) be at honey honey colored?

Finally, I want to keep the car as long as possible so what additives would you recommend (assuming I am doing 10k oil changes as recommended). I am currently using Liquid Moly 2009 formula but I was thinking of doing 50/50 liquid Moly and lubegard bio-tech (i.e. half the amount of liquid moly bottle will be replaced with bio-tech).
 
No additives. Engines will last 200-400k with just regular oil changes. Just how long do you plan on keeping the car?
 
My last 2002 Volvo S40 I've kept for 14 years, the only reason I had to get rid of it was because it got "totaled" (insurance guidance) in an accident.

HAHAH got it Lovering Nashua Volvo and the car has driven through multiple Northeast winters, then mid-atlantic ocean humidity followed by hot backed sun of Arizona just to die an untimely death due to sudden deaceleration of a pickup truck that ran a red.
 
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10w30 will be fine. Most 10w30 is rated good for down to -25 or lower.
 
Volvo recommends a 0W or 5W-30 A5/B5 oil. I just had my 30k service done on my XC60 as well (at 21k) and I plan on using an A3/B4 0W-40 on 5k changes.

What 10W-30 did they use? If it wasn't a high quality synthetic oil I wouldn't try to push to 10k.

There is also an open service campaign for the spark plugs; they should change them for you free of charge to prevent pre ignition and misfires. 2 of my 4 plugs had broken insulators at 21k miles.

Nix the additives.
 
Good old 10w30 is the O negative blood type of the motor oil world. Put it in about anything and it will run just fine with no problems.
 
Yeap they changed the sparkplugs I was at 28.5k on mine.

I am just kind of miffed that the engine air filter doesn't get changed until 40k, being from Arizona/NM area that thing is probably clogged to [censored]. I have bought a MEHNLE and will change it myself ($18 of AZAutoHouz vs $70 what the dealer wanted for just the filter). I hope that won't affect my warranty.


The dealer charges $105 for the oil change (so the next one will be steep) but I guess it's better if I do it there so they have all my records...especially that I have the 7 year / 100k warranty. I love changing the oilmyself since I have access to the hobby shop high bay area at the base but my wife won't let me touch the volvo and wants everything done at the dealer.
 
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They're idiots. See my post in your other thread...

Probably the same service advisor who told me that "You can't use a 0W40 in your Volvo, it's way too thick, plus the oil is too thin on start up and the pump won't be able to build pressure...you'll wear out your turbo with that oil..."

So, these guys think that they're doing you a favor...giving you a 10W30 lets the pump build that critical pressure on a cold start...the 0W20 was just too thin to build pressure on a cold start...you know, because it's a zero...

crazy2.gif
 
I presume there is no real way to tell if the oil/filter was actually serviced/changed without dumping the oil out.

[censored] it.

Sigh.
 
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
Good old 10w30 is the O negative blood type of the motor oil world.


Love it, can't be more accurate!
 
Originally Posted By: tempnexus
I had my 30k service done at Volvo now in Arizona (where I bought the car) the dealer was using 5w-20 and the car states 5w-20. However, now I had the car serviced in VA and the dealer used 10W-30. The dealer stated that it's the correct weight for the location. I mean I am taking his word on it but in reality, is it?

Also, when I opened the oil cap the oil under the cap was still brown (shouldn't it be honey? if new oil?). The car doesn't have a dipstick so I can't check the color of the oil via dipstick. Yes I know that color doesn't mean anything but still if a new oil is added and the car is only driven 3 miles, shouldn't the color of the oil under the cap (at the engine portion not the cap portion) be at honey honey colored?

Finally, I want to keep the car as long as possible so what additives would you recommend (assuming I am doing 10k oil changes as recommended). I am currently using Liquid Moly 2009 formula but I was thinking of doing 50/50 liquid Moly and lubegard bio-tech (i.e. half the amount of liquid moly bottle will be replaced with bio-tech).


See the other Volvo thread: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4656641/Re:_0w20_oil_for_2016_Volvo
Looks like a late model Volvo can use Valvoline full-syn 5w30 and Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 (both A5/B5).

About additives, you don't really need any. I do use the LM 2009 MOS2 during break-in, but thats about it.

That dealer is an idiot for putting in 10w30, and usually those are NOT full-syn oils, so you probably need to change it out in 3k miles to a proper full-syn 5w30 A5/B5. Actually any dexos1 Gen2 full-syn 5w30 or 0w30 will do fine in your engine but might just stick to A5/B5 since Valvoline full syn and Pennz Plat are so easy to find at walmart and amazon for cheap.

As discussed in the other threads, Volvo says to use 0w20 for "extreme conditions" in their 4-cylinder turbo engines, so you can always claim you don't have "extreme conditions" and just use an A5/B5 5w30 and keep the engine warranty intact.

Yes the oil should have been a light honey color or similar, nothing dark-ish like you saw. Makes me wonder if the dealership put in all new oil or mixed half new oil with old oil as some dealerships have been caught doing occasionally. Its nice to DIY oil changes because then you're in control and won't get scammed.
 
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Those additives are useless, especially in a brand new car. And you should be especially careful with European engines, as they could be even worse with those "treatments" that mostly do nothing except waste your money.

The worst part, though, is no dipstick
mad.gif
 
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
Those additives are useless, especially in a brand new car. And you should be especially careful with European engines, as they could be even worse with those "treatments" that mostly do nothing except waste your money.

The worst part, though, is no dipstick
mad.gif



Tell me about the no dipstick [censored] I mean honestly half of the time I forget how to honestly check my engine oil since it takes some intricate bend over backwards method to see the correct level or otherwise it will not display. It's back arse backwards if you ask me....honestly I think it's so the power of the owner is taken away and the car can brake down without any reason and there is no way to tell why it broke down since it's just broke....there is no other way to test it unless you purchase the VOLVO tester and even then you have to purchase the lic for the software or else you won't get poop from the data. Sigh, I love the Volvo safety but I hate the Volvo secrecy in diagnostics!!! And now that it's owned by China I don't know if I would even trust their safety metrics!


BTW what do you mean by European Engines and additives? I thought Japanese engines were sensitive to those do to tolerances and not Europe.
 
Originally Posted By: Charlie2015
$105 and they probably just used conventional 10w30. The Volvo dealer near me uses Castrol GTX


Well I didn't pay them the amount it was free for the last (3rd time 30k checkup and oil change) but I inquired about a price of an oil change and that's what they quoted me. Sure ok $40 for oil and $12 for filter, then if I use a list at the base it's $12 for one hour so ok if I can do it myself it's $64....about half. The question is....will my wife let me.
 
Originally Posted By: tempnexus
Originally Posted By: Charlie2015
$105 and they probably just used conventional 10w30. The Volvo dealer near me uses Castrol GTX


Well I didn't pay them the amount it was free for the last (3rd time 30k checkup and oil change) but I inquired about a price of an oil change and that's what they quoted me. Sure ok $40 for oil and $12 for filter, then if I use a list at the base it's $12 for one hour so ok if I can do it myself it's $64....about half. The question is....will my wife let me.


LOL its easier to ask for forgiveness than permission!
 
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