Need Assistance on 2012 Nissan Versa

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I'm helping an elderly lady with her 2012 Nissan Versa. She's one of my church board members. I'm gonna change the MTF, Coolant, Air and Cabin Filters and maybe plugs. It currently has 38K on it but over 6 years old.

My first question concerns if there is an engine block drain for the coolant? If so, where is it? I'm gonna use Nissan OEM Blue Long Life.

2nd question: Do you Nissan guys have any preference for the MTF? I guess I'll use Amsoil if there are no preference. Is Nissan's great?

3rd question: Should I worry with the plugs? I'm guessing NGK is the preferred plug?

We have an agreement that she sells me her car once it gets 10 years old so I have a vested interest in maintaining it. This will explain what may appear to be some early maintenance duties. Let the record show, I am paying for these.

I am not that familiar with Nissans. The last one she sold me was her 2002 Sentra in 2012. I drove it to 188K and sold it to my Son-in-Law. He drove it 2 years and sold it for what he paid me for it. Just trying to give you the "picture."
 
Per the owners manual (available on Nissan's site)
The listed spark plug is a PLZKAR6A-11 (NGK) if they are like my Sentra, the plugs are actually indexed for better performance. although I would not bother changing them yet.
also specs 75w-85 GL4 for the MT. certainly they spec their own fluid; I would not hesitate to run a 75w-90 GL4
coolant; the process is in the FSM @ Nicoclub; but they don't show a picture for the drain for my car....
 
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
Leave the MTF, leave the plugs.


x2, those are iridium plugs that are good for 105K miles per the owners manual.
 
Q3: If those are Denso Iridium plugs can safely leave them in till 80K miles. I changed mine on G37 at 44K miles but only because I already bought new plugs, same as original ones. The old ones I took out looked almost brand new. Neither of the plugs exceeded OEM spec gap.

Q1: The factory fill coolant is intended for 105K miles or 10 years whichever comes first, then replace every 7 years. No harm in replacing it now if you have time and don't mind spending about $50 for OEM coolant. Because of different chemistries, I would use OEM coolant only. I replaced mine at 44K miles, and could drain about 75% of it through a plug at the bottom of the radiator.

Q2: You don't need any crazy MTF here. I would go with an OEM. It's a good idea to change it though because you'll flush out the break-in debris, unless the fluid was changed at least once already. Factory fill MTF drain has a noticeable amount of shiny metal. You don't want those particles live there and act as an abrasive.
 
Ok. No spark plugs.

So nobody knows about an engine drain plug(s) l like I have on all my Toyotas?

Thanks!
 
Originally Posted By: Gebo
Ok. No spark plugs.

So nobody knows about an engine drain plug(s) l like I have on all my Toyotas?

Thanks!


Why do you think the coolant needs to be changed after only 38k miles?
 
Messing with the drain plugs can be problematic and is probably not worth it. Just flush the engine or fill and drain with water a few times.

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Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Leo99
Originally Posted By: Gebo
Ok. No spark plugs.

So nobody knows about an engine drain plug(s) l like I have on all my Toyotas?

Thanks!


Why do you think the coolant needs to be changed after only 38k miles?


Based on time, not miles
 
Originally Posted By: Snagglefoot
Messing with the drain plugs can be problematic and is probably not worth it. Just flush the engine or fill and drain with water a few times.

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I think you are thinking about different plugs. The plugs I’m talking about are on the engine block and are specifically there to loosen to drain the coolant in the engine block. My cars generally have one on the block and i think you need a 10 or 12 mm socket to loosen them. My V8’s have 2. One on each side of block.
 
Originally Posted By: Gebo
Ok. No spark plugs.

So nobody knows about an engine drain plug(s) l like I have on all my Toyotas?

Thanks!


Just go to YouTube. Someone there probably did this work, or related, and maybe you can spot the drain plugs. I was also able to view FSM for all my cars.
 
I'd drain through the lower hose - I don't trust any drain plug or petcock to seal back up. A shop destroyed my new radiator on my Liberty by using the petcock.
 
I agree , drop the lower hose . Sure , you do not get all the coolant out , but do it a little more often to make up for it .
 
Thanks, Willbur. The back side of the block......hmmm...Decisions, decisions.....
 
Just how bad is the coolant apt to be? Most cars go 10+ years with the original stuff. Not that it's a good way to go, but: just how critical is it?

I bet by just changing what you can, you get way past 50% new fluid in there. Any old fluid is going to be highly diluted.
 
I've read a number of places that GL4 and GL5 gear lubes are not interchangeable. GL5 are supposedly not safe for brass or bronze. Maybe other reasons too.

My tractor specs 75w-85 GL5. I emailed Mobil and asked them if I could use M1 75w-90 GL5. They said no. Didn't give a reason.

6 years on iridium plugs and long life coolant doesn't seem that long. 16 years and I'd change them.
 
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