1993 Mercedes 300D problems shifting 2nd-3rd

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I purchased a 1993 Mercedes 300D about a year ago. Car has always shifted quirky in that if leave it in drive it will go from second to fourth missing third. I “rectified” that issue by keeping it in D-3 and when it gets to third have put it in drive to go to forth gear. I have driven car about 40000 miles total-and within last few months the car shifts fine from second to third when it is cold and in the initial stages of warming up. As the car gets to operating temperature I have to rev car to 4000-4500 rpm and then let foot off pedal slightly for it to shift into third gear then it shifts perfectly from third to fourth. A few times it would not shift even with revving method. Money has been tight but know need to bring it to independent shop that would work on these cars. Wondered if anyone has ideas about the nature of the problem.
 
There are springs in the valve body, K1 and K2, something like that. One is broken or tired. If you can drop a pan you can change these-- just hiding behind a flat head screw.
 
Have changed fluid and filter twicesince bought car. I will look up the K spring set thing. II guess because it is older and bought cheaply for 3000 did not think to join a Mercedes Benz forum. It is daily driver has 245000 on it now and have used mainly 229.5 oils in it and runs strong-not fast and iwith no leaks. Appreciate the quick responses.
 
Check the bowden cable. Sounds stretched or mis adjusted. Some might say this is not the case because the symptoms change with the temperature changing. But I have seen this problem before. Valve body is a great suggestion. I figured start with the bowden cable because its external.
 
I had an 83 that did something similar and it was a vacuum leak......vacuum system was huge on the 83....not sure how much that system controls on the 93's.
 
From some quick digging it appears the transmission in your car is a non-electronic 722.4 which is pretty similar to the 722.3 used in the W123's ten years prior. If "722.4" and "W123" are gibberish to you, I highly suggest you join a MB forum and change that - these cars can be great but are not simple or intuitive compared to anything domestic. Everybody preaches "kickdown, vacuum, and fluid pressure adjustment" but they do so for a reason. I'd bet money once you get on to an enthusiast group the first questions they'll ask is if you've checked those three things ^ and if not, "it may be (X) but you need to adjust it to spec first then dig deeper." Enjoy...
 
A little OT, but the fact that you were able to put 40K in a year on a car you bought at 24 years from build speaks very well of the quality that Mercedes built into the W124.
I still prefer the W123 as a driver, but the 124 was apparently a very well built machine.
They also don't rust as badly as the 123s.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
A little OT, but the fact that you were able to put 40K in a year on a car you bought at 24 years from build speaks very well of the quality that Mercedes built into the W124.
I still prefer the W123 as a driver, but the 124 was apparently a very well built machine.
They also don't rust as badly as the 123s.



What about the 123 do you prefer as a driver?
 
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