Heating issues

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I went to my mech last week and he put new t stat( 2nd one) in and all was ok , topped of fluid and checked head gasket( no gasses), no issues for a week. Now its blowing cold air again after I get off the highway or before the highway. I got to check coolant later after it cools down. he bled the system too.

I'm frustrated with this whole thing and its been going on since November!
 
Heater core he said is not plugged but may have to flush it, head gasket was changed last feb, new cap too. temp guage is ok.
 
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Everything is almost new, rad was replaced Nov 2016.

same situation last couple months, 1 week goes by after I add coolant and it has problems again.
 
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Does it blow heat in any circumstance?

Here's what I'm thinking...
No heat at all and up to normal engine temp = blend door issues
Heat comes and goes as a result of the engine cooling = tstat issue (use OEM!)
 
Originally Posted By: andrewp1998
Everything is almost new, rad was replaced Nov 2016.

same situation last couple months, 1 week goes by after I add coolant and it has problems again.


If adding coolant fixes it for a week, you have a leak.
 
Start the car from cold. As it warms up, put your hand on the heater hoses going to the firewall. If they warm up, and you still have no heat, suspect the blend/air mixer door.
 
just checked coolant after 1 hr and 15 mins and level is fine, will check later when its totally cooled down. Tstat is oem
 
Originally Posted By: mjk
Heater core plugged ?


My guess as well. Personally, I'd take it to a rad shop instead of just a garage.
 
Gonna have to do some good investigating and see if the car is getting upto temp and the rad hoses are getting hot and the heater core hoses also. Physically grab those with your hand and see. Sounds like wide open tstat or air pocket in the heater core.
 
Check level in the radiator when cold. Do not just check the white plastic expansion tank. The radiator itself must be full to the top.

Check that the heater valve on the firewall opens fully when you put the dash control on full hot. Since this is partly electric, key must be turned on. I think the open position is with the cable retracted.

The dash gauge should warm up to about halfway and stay there through all driving conditions. Both heater hoses and the top radiator hose should be too hot to touch. The temperature of the bottom radiator hose isn't important. It will heat up if the car is sitting still and cool off when it is moving.

If one heater hose is hot and the other one is cold, there is low coolant level, the valve isn't open, or there is blockage in the core. The first two points should have been ruled out by the tests above. If a stop leak agent has ever been used in the system it is likely the core is blocked.
 
Originally Posted By: Warstud
Could be a worn out Water Pump.


read my comments. pump is new. everything is new except core!!!
 
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