Lubeguard Red in T-IV or DW-1

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Hey all

I was told lubrguard red is a great product. I run very fresh (3x drain/fill since 11-2017) T-IV aka Mobil 3309 in my 2002 Lexus with a U150e and 108,000 Miles. There is somewhat fresh (its on my todo list) DW-1 in my 2009 Honda Odyssey 5spd ect. I was thinking of using the Lubeguard Red for its conditioning/protective aspects. Any info on the product?


Thanks all
 
I would add it esp to a fluid like T-IV. I know a guy from another Honda forum that works on cars for a living. This was the only additive that he recommended. One of the best trans shops by him would always add a quart to the trans after a rebuild.

Although prob not needed for an HM full synthetic atf like Maxlife fyi.
 
Funny you say that about Maxlife. Almost switched to it from T-IV but for $5/qt I just will drain and fill more often with T-IV. I get nervous about mixing the maxlife with the T-IV and also don’t like the idea of doing flush with the cooler lines and buckets with a 16 year old transmission.

As for great Honda, I very well may switch to Transmax or Maxlife and that tranny is prolly going to grenade anyway so maybe one of the full synthetics can add some time
 
The Lubegard will work fine with no problems, but you'd probably get better results by just using a full synthetic ATF such as the popular Maxlife, or Castrol's Full Synthetic ATF, which is currently on sale at Autozone, 2 quarts for $10. The sale is on for 5 more days. The sale price is valid for any multiple of 2, with no limit.

The Castrol Full Synthetic ATF is good on all Toyota automatic transmissions, and is also a good choice for your Ody
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No need to flush any transmission, especially since both of yours have a drain plug. If you want to flush, simply do the 3x drain and fill. But even a single drain and fill using the mfr-suggested intervals is sufficient
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The T-IV/3309 will mix with other fluids with no problems
 
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
I would add it esp to a fluid like T-IV. I know a guy from another Honda forum that works on cars for a living. This was the only additive that he recommended. One of the best trans shops by him would always add a quart to the trans after a rebuild.

Although prob not needed for an HM full synthetic atf like Maxlife fyi.


What's your basis to add it to a modern fluid like T-IV?
 
So if both cars got, say, 4 drain/fills within a week, the quart or so that would be left of the original stuff is fine?

The U150e just acts lazy. But that’s how they were new. lubeguard promises to improve shifts. I don’t want to feel them, but they need to be faster. I also want 350,000 miles out of it OR Have a lift to change it. The former is better regardless and the latter isn’t in my near future.

As for the ody, those transmissions suck any way, and it’s been acting a bit wierd. I’m committed enough to the vehicle (I’ve disabled VCM, done the timing belt, done the axels, am about to do motor mounts) so an $800 used tranny if the same/less money to DIY rebuild mine makes sense
 
Originally Posted By: Drew1987
So if both cars got, say, 4 drain/fills within a week, the quart or so that would be left of the original stuff is fine?


correct
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Originally Posted By: JHZR2
What's your basis to add it to a modern fluid like T-IV?


Not sure how modern it is. Maybe compared to an older MB's atf it's modern. It's not a full-syn atf either as mentioned. There seems to be many benefits by using it. The info on the Amazon ad sounds promising. LINK

I remember years ago you bought some and offered it for free on here. Apparently, not seeing a need for it.
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Originally Posted By: Drew1987
So if both cars got, say, 4 drain/fills within a week, the quart or so that would be left of the original stuff is fine?

The U150e just acts lazy. But that’s how they were new. lubeguard promises to improve shifts. I don’t want to feel them, but they need to be faster. I also want 350,000 miles out of it OR Have a lift to change it. The former is better regardless and the latter isn’t in my near future.


Wait a minute, so you just did 3 df's back in November? Prob the best thing for it would be a pan drop to replace the filter. Top off with approx. 4 qts atf and 1 qt LGR.
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Per the instructions add final qt of LGR with engine running and trans in park.
 
I believe their WS is an improvement, but t-iv isn’t “special” I just trust it from being in so many 300,000 mile dealer serviced Toyota products, you know? Sat in a 502,000 mile LS400 once. T-IV all the way. Doesn’t mean something new isn’t better, but I tend to be an “old dog”
 
You can call them and ask for help. They're an American family-owned company that makes very good products. They don't over promise and are very realistic about how to use their products.
 
Usage of Lubegard is 1Q ATF with 1oz Lubeguard. If the transmission capacity is 8-10Q, then dump the entire 10oz bottle and get done with it.
Now any transmission will like the Lubeguard Red and is can be used with syn and sem-syn fluids.
Having said that in no way is T-IV inferior that by adding Lubeguard will make it superior. That is simply nonsense.
 
Check it out from the maker. Too many arm chair quarterbacks giving advice.

http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-112/LUBEGARD+Automatic+Transmission+Fluid+Protectant
 
When I was a kid, I used to drain and fill every 20,000 and substitute one qt of ATF with Lucas. I beat the [censored] out of that
Car and it shifted great when I sadly sold it at 147,000. There may be something to the added packages aftermarket contains. That said, perhaps the Transmax will go in the ody. I think Walmart sells a gallon for under $20. 3 or 4 of those should do it.

Speaking of trannies, can anyone speak to dipstick unreliability? The u150e shows “full/hot” after an hour of driving. Shut it off and the next day, when Ice cold, NOTIING shows on the dipstick. 0.6 qt and it’s at the lower side of “full/cold” there are others with the same trans that have the same issue. I run it on the “safe” side and measure when cold


Can’t even find tne “right” way to check the ody. Running and hot is what I do, 4
Quarts came out, 4 went in and the stick shows
Full
 
Based on Lubeguard’s website, seems foolish not to have it in all three automatics, including the abused TH350,
But all products promote them selves. That’s why I wanted to hear what you guys had to say
 
I have been using the Lubegard Red in our 2002 ES300 and it is a great product. I have relatively fresh fluid (drain/fill every ~25k miles) with a TIV compatible fluid. These act evenly lazier with WS or maxLife; not recommended. The Lubegard has resolved a very slight vibration at idle that I could not track down or remedy any other way. The car has 285k and honestly feels about like new. Currently I am drain/filing with Castrol Transmax High Mileage and it has really improved the (even when new) low-sped clunk and shifting oddities of this transmission. Castrol recommends it as a TIV substitute, and it is slightly thicker than TIV and with HM additives.

The base oil of the Lubegard product is unique and the main reason I use it - for cleaning, seal conditioning, etc. If you are able to get a synthetic with a decent ester oil component, like perhaps Redline or find out what % is in Mobil 1, you might not benefit from adding the Lubegard. But if you add it, drop an ounce of it in your PS system, too. Changing the PS pump and rear hoses (some prone to leaking) on this engine are awkward jobs.
So maintain the system by draining the reservoir and refreshing at each AT service, and drop an ounce of the Lubegard Red in it, too.

My understanding was that with Honda fluids, the compatible transmission additive was the "Platinum" as the additive chemistry was different. Definitely check the lubegard website before choosing one for a Honda transmission.

And as you pointed out in your last post, I'm also adding it to my GM transmission at the next service.

IMO, doing a cooler line flush would be far more efficient and there is just no reason not to do it vs. multiple more inefficient drain/fills. Do it once that way to set a baseline of clean fresh fluid, then drain/fill every 25k or so going forward. The filters on these are wire mesh - do not replace them with paper filters or you risk pump starvation (it has been reported at TN in the past). With only 108k on this transmission, I do not see strong need to drop the pan for this reason. swap 10/11 qts via the cooler lines in one go, add the lubegard and then don't worry for 25k.

Another note on these transmissions - they will give very different fill levels on the dipstick when measured hot vs. cold. I trust only the cold level - check it in on a cold car, running, after shifting through gears.
 
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My experience:

Changed 4 quarts in my rav4 at 265k miles. Put in 3.5 quarts T-IV, 1/2 qt Lubegard. That was 85,000 miles ago. haven't touched it since. It will hit 350k miles in a few days.

Can't say if lubegard helps but no complaints about it.
 
Originally Posted By: Leo99
Put in 3.5 quarts T-IV, 1/2 qt Lubegard.


LXE is sold in 10 oz bottles (1oz LXE for 1Qt of ATF) where did you get 1/2Q (16oz) bottle
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Oro! This is acarapella from Club Lexus! Good to see you here too! Between this forum, CL, odyclub, and chevy talk, there is an amazing wealth of knowledge. I owe a lot of my mechanical confidence to conversations on the aforementioned lounges. Anyway, I just did my third drain/fill (T-IV) in the ES and what came out looked new. I think I’ll throw a thing of lubeguard which will get the fluid level right to the middle of the “full/cold” and do a complete flush via cooler lines in 20-30,000 miles. I always wondered if I could use to clear jugs, one full of new fluid and let it “suck” into the tranny, and skip the drain plug and funnel all together. Part of me believes t would work, part of me things it wouldn’t because it needs the pressure from the trans, through the cooler, to “push” fluid back to the trans rather that “suck”

Leo glad to hear your rav is doing so well! When I add 4 quarts, my “hot/full” reads right. But the “cold/full” is way under. Oro has the same issue
 
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