How does PP 5W-20 stack up against M1 EP?

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In a ford Duratec 3.5 I would like to use the best oil possible for this vehicle with seal compatibility to prevent future leaks. From what I understand, M1 EP is the gold standard?

I will always use an FL-500S
 
They are both really good oils. If you are going by the OLM, shop by price. If you are doing UOAs religiously and are trying to get every last mile out of the OCI, well, then only the UOA will tell you which oil is better for your application.

FWIW, I just went 17.2k on PUP 0W20 and other than slight thickening, probably could have pushed to 20k if it didn't mean changing the oil with my back on the snowy driveway.
 
I have used M1 oils including EP for decades. What OCI do you intend to do? I have done 10K for 40 years with very good results. In the last 10 years I have put about 425K using 20wt. in my last 3 Fords.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: AntDeek
In a ford Duratec 3.5 I would like to use the best oil possible for this vehicle with seal compatibility to prevent future leaks. From what I understand, M1 EP is the gold standard? I will always use an FL-500S
M1 EP is better due to its high PAO content vs. Pennz Plat. Actually the best Mobil1 oil is now their Annual Protection (AP) version, not EP, and AP also has some PAO.
Avoid Motorcraft oil filters because they are made by Purolator, and they all have a reputation for getting a hole in the filter media. No kidding, this is a thing seen a lot in the last few years. Best oil filter is a Fram Ultra, the winner of most comparison battles when it comes to efficiency, cost, construction, etc.
 
What is so special about PAO ? There are other base stocks that produce less wear.
 
I intend on 5000 mile intervals I prefer not to take oil too far.

Which one is a group IV oil? Isn’t PP technically group III?

CT8 - people like PAOs because they have much better high temp properties compared to hydrocracked
 
Originally Posted By: AntDeek
I intend on 5000 mile intervals I prefer not to take oil too far.

Which one is a group IV oil? Isn’t PP technically group III?

CT8 - people like PAOs because they have much better high temp properties compared to hydrocracked


Well, any PP of the last few years would use a GTL basestock offering good high and low temperature performance.
You're driving a four or five year old machine anyway. What oils has it seen to date?
M1 EP is a perfectly good oil but I don't think that anyone considers it the gold standard.
In terms of preventing leaks, either M1 HM or Valvoline Maxlife would likely be better, but if you have no leaks in a mid-life machine and may never have them then why worry about it?
If and when you see oil leaks, let's talk.
Until that time, on 5K drains use any oil meeting the spec Ford called for and have no worries.
As we often say here, the rest of the Edge will be trash long before the engine dies of any cause related to oil used.
 
Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
Originally Posted By: AntDeek
In a ford Duratec 3.5 I would like to use the best oil possible for this vehicle with seal compatibility to prevent future leaks. From what I understand, M1 EP is the gold standard? I will always use an FL-500S
M1 EP is better due to its high PAO content vs. Pennz Plat. Actually the best Mobil1 oil is now their Annual Protection (AP) version, not EP, and AP also has some PAO.
Avoid Motorcraft oil filters because they are made by Purolator, and they all have a reputation for getting a hole in the filter media. No kidding, this is a thing seen a lot in the last few years. Best oil filter is a Fram Ultra, the winner of most comparison battles when it comes to efficiency, cost, construction, etc.


How does it compare to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum?

Also, and not looking to start another oil battle, but I switched over to Pennzoil oils years ago, after using Mobil for years, as I consistently seen on here that Pennzoil oils received better UOA's than what Mobil oils did.

Mobil UOA's always seemed to have higher amounts of wear metals in them compared to Pennzoil oils. I am not sure that is still the case, but it was enough for me to switch over when I did, plus I could consistently find Pennzoil oils cheaper than Mobil oils, which, of course, was a bonus.
 
Originally Posted By: AntDeek
Which one is a group IV oil? Isn’t PP technically group III?
CT8 - people like PAOs because they have much better high temp properties compared to hydrocracked

M1 EP and AP are mixed GroupIV/III. (GroupIV is synonymous with PAO.)
Yes PAO is more resistant to high temperature oxidation, which is the reason Exxon-Mobil puts more of it in their premium EP & AP oils, which need to go more time & miles. PAO also has better low-temperature flow properties as well. Its an expensive base oil component, meaning its not there unless it really needs to be there.

Its a little tough to find the evidence there is PAO (aka 1-Decene Homopolymer) on MSDS's.
M1 EP and AP shows its there in varying amounts depending on what weight you have.
Note M1 EP and AP have base oil thats a mix of PAO, GroupIII, and perhaps some GroupV esters.

Pennz Plat MSDS sheets have recently showed they are likely just going with PurePlus (GroupIII+) as the base oil, maybe with a small amount of esters.
An exception might be the BMW-branded SOPUS (Pennzoil-Shell) pureplus-based oil they make for the BMW-Mini dealerships which has to meet LL-01FE or LL-14FE+, possibly requiring some PAO mixed in to meet the tough performance standards.

If you still don't believe PAO is superior to GroupIII, notice all the Mercedes 229.5 oils use it.
 
Originally Posted By: CT8
What is so special about PAO ? There are other base stocks that produce less wear.


It requires less VII and no PPD's, which means you get more oil and less plastic. The base stock isn't the significant factor to protect against wear, it's the additive package that's important there.
 
Originally Posted By: Marco620
GTL based oil in BMW,Maserati and Ferrari. I'll stick with Pennzoil

GTL pureplus GroupIII+ ... with PAO added to meet the tougher specs you mention.
Pennz Plat PP is not the same oil as LL-01FE, LL-14FE+, and the 10w60 Ferrari-spec oil this thread is about.
 
Originally Posted By: irv
Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
Originally Posted By: AntDeek
In a ford Duratec 3.5 I would like to use the best oil possible for this vehicle with seal compatibility to prevent future leaks. From what I understand, M1 EP is the gold standard? I will always use an FL-500S
M1 EP is better due to its high PAO content vs. Pennz Plat. Actually the best Mobil1 oil is now their Annual Protection (AP) version, not EP, and AP also has some PAO.
Avoid Motorcraft oil filters because they are made by Purolator, and they all have a reputation for getting a hole in the filter media. No kidding, this is a thing seen a lot in the last few years. Best oil filter is a Fram Ultra, the winner of most comparison battles when it comes to efficiency, cost, construction, etc.


How does it compare to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum?

Also, and not looking to start another oil battle, but I switched over to Pennzoil oils years ago, after using Mobil for years, as I consistently seen on here that Pennzoil oils received better UOA's than what Mobil oils did.

Mobil UOA's always seemed to have higher amounts of wear metals in them compared to Pennzoil oils. I am not sure that is still the case, but it was enough for me to switch over when I did, plus I could consistently find Pennzoil oils cheaper than Mobil oils, which, of course, was a bonus.


If you haven't read some of Doug Hillary's excellent posts, as well as his article on the value of UOA's on the main page of the site, I'd give it a read. You can't simply compare UOA's between oils to determine which one is "better". That's not the purpose of the tool, which is to determine oil life, contamination levels for condemnation limits, as well as to allow one to potentially glean some insight into machine health and indicate potential impending catastrophe.
 
Originally Posted By: Marco620
GTL based oil in BMW,Maserati and Ferrari. I'll stick with Pennzoil


By that metric one could simply say PAO-based oil in Mercedes-AMG, Porsche, Aston Martin, Bentley and McLaren. I'll stick with Mobil 1.

It's simply brand cheerleading.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: irv
Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
Originally Posted By: AntDeek
In a ford Duratec 3.5 I would like to use the best oil possible for this vehicle with seal compatibility to prevent future leaks. From what I understand, M1 EP is the gold standard? I will always use an FL-500S
M1 EP is better due to its high PAO content vs. Pennz Plat. Actually the best Mobil1 oil is now their Annual Protection (AP) version, not EP, and AP also has some PAO.
Avoid Motorcraft oil filters because they are made by Purolator, and they all have a reputation for getting a hole in the filter media. No kidding, this is a thing seen a lot in the last few years. Best oil filter is a Fram Ultra, the winner of most comparison battles when it comes to efficiency, cost, construction, etc.


How does it compare to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum?

Also, and not looking to start another oil battle, but I switched over to Pennzoil oils years ago, after using Mobil for years, as I consistently seen on here that Pennzoil oils received better UOA's than what Mobil oils did.

Mobil UOA's always seemed to have higher amounts of wear metals in them compared to Pennzoil oils. I am not sure that is still the case, but it was enough for me to switch over when I did, plus I could consistently find Pennzoil oils cheaper than Mobil oils, which, of course, was a bonus.


If you haven't read some of Doug Hillary's excellent posts, as well as his article on the value of UOA's on the main page of the site, I'd give it a read. You can't simply compare UOA's between oils to determine which one is "better". That's not the purpose of the tool, which is to determine oil life, contamination levels for condemnation limits, as well as to allow one to potentially glean some insight into machine health and indicate potential impending catastrophe.



Glad to see you mentioned this. Many here believe a cheap UOA tells all and can be used to determine the quality of an oil. Condition of the oil is another thing.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: irv
Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
Originally Posted By: AntDeek
In a ford Duratec 3.5 I would like to use the best oil possible for this vehicle with seal compatibility to prevent future leaks. From what I understand, M1 EP is the gold standard? I will always use an FL-500S
M1 EP is better due to its high PAO content vs. Pennz Plat. Actually the best Mobil1 oil is now their Annual Protection (AP) version, not EP, and AP also has some PAO.
Avoid Motorcraft oil filters because they are made by Purolator, and they all have a reputation for getting a hole in the filter media. No kidding, this is a thing seen a lot in the last few years. Best oil filter is a Fram Ultra, the winner of most comparison battles when it comes to efficiency, cost, construction, etc.


How does it compare to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum?

Also, and not looking to start another oil battle, but I switched over to Pennzoil oils years ago, after using Mobil for years, as I consistently seen on here that Pennzoil oils received better UOA's than what Mobil oils did.

Mobil UOA's always seemed to have higher amounts of wear metals in them compared to Pennzoil oils. I am not sure that is still the case, but it was enough for me to switch over when I did, plus I could consistently find Pennzoil oils cheaper than Mobil oils, which, of course, was a bonus.


If you haven't read some of Doug Hillary's excellent posts, as well as his article on the value of UOA's on the main page of the site, I'd give it a read. You can't simply compare UOA's between oils to determine which one is "better". That's not the purpose of the tool, which is to determine oil life, contamination levels for condemnation limits, as well as to allow one to potentially glean some insight into machine health and indicate potential impending catastrophe.


Interesting, and I guess it's best I read it, but when I see elevated "wear metals" in different oil UOA's, I automatically think the oil isn't doing it's job as good as the other oil is. Elevated Wear metals, imo, when seen in UOA's, tell me the oil isn't lubricating/protecting as good as they should, especially when you see other oil UOA's that have "normal" or nil amounts of wear metals in their UOA's.

Like I mentioned, this was years ago, and the UOA's were based on the Mobil I was using at that time. Like I wondered, I am sure things have changed/improved some, especially with the many types of oils that are now available.
 
Originally Posted By: irv
Interesting, and I guess it's best I read it, but when I see elevated "wear metals" in different oil UOA's, I automatically think the oil isn't doing it's job as good as the other oil is. Elevated Wear metals, imo, when seen in UOA's, tell me the oil isn't lubricating/protecting as good as they should, especially when you see other oil UOA's that have "normal" or nil amounts of wear metals in their UOA's.

Really, with the lack of any sort of controls on vehicle operation there is no way to correlate elevated wear metal reports to the oil. Never is it a variation between (for example) 10ppm and 350ppm which might show something significant. No one here has ever shown anything that indicates the relatively minor differences are in any way significant.
 
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