How are these Spark plugs looking?

[maverickfhs]

Originally Posted By: spasm3
I'm going to ask, what was the original reason for changing the cyl head?


Sure, it jumped timing while on the road.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: maverickfhs
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: maverickfhs
Just did a wet test, with another gauage and from left to right 1234

280, 280, 210, 280

I promise, it's a Civic and doesn't have a Ferrari engine in it

Now I am lost, confused and worried

That's about 14:1 compression, I cant see how a civic engine can get that high. A couple more points and you wont need the ignition system. LOL
JK, something is really way beyond wrong.


Any idea or thoughts what could it be?


Do a leak down test first. I cant figure the reason for those wet compression readings.

 

[maverickfhs]

Yeah, I am going to see if I can get to a leak down, since I don't have a compressor

 

[spasm3]

The only way i see to fix this with all the oil burning, is remove the head and go through it. Compare it to the old head you removed. Check the valve stem seals and look at the head to see if its even the right year head. Then look at the cylinder walls and see if they are scored.

I would take my old head and have a local shop redo it.

 

[maverickfhs]

Originally Posted By: spasm3
The only way i see to fix this , is remove the head and go through it. Compare it to the old head you removed. Check the valve stem seals and look at the head to see if its even the right year head.

I would take my old head and have a local shop redo it.


Thanks, yes it's definitely a correct head.

But that's the last resort and definitely planning to go with the old head rebuild route locally.

P.S: You gave me another good advice, I'll at least pull the valve cover and compare both of them and also see if I notice any issues with seals.

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted By: maverickfhs

P.S: You gave me another good advice, I'll at least pull the valve cover and compare both of them and also see if I notice any issues with seals.

If you have an air compressor and a valve spring compressor you could pressurize each cyl, remove the spring retainers and check/replace the valve stem seals. Maybe some are missing with that much oil burning.

 

[maverickfhs]

Originally Posted By: spasm3
Originally Posted By: maverickfhs

P.S: You gave me another good advice, I'll at least pull the valve cover and compare both of them and also see if I notice any issues with seals.

If you have an air compressor and a valve spring compressor you could pressurize each cyl, remove the spring retainers and check/replace the valve stem seals. Maybe some are missing with that much oil burning.


Unfortunately, I don't have a compressor

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted By: maverickfhs
Originally Posted By: spasm3
Originally Posted By: maverickfhs

P.S: You gave me another good advice, I'll at least pull the valve cover and compare both of them and also see if I notice any issues with seals.

If you have an air compressor and a valve spring compressor you could pressurize each cyl, remove the spring retainers and check/replace the valve stem seals. Maybe some are missing with that much oil burning.


Unfortunately, I don't have a compressor

The old school trick without a compressor, is to get the piston on the cyl you are working on, just below top dead center. Feed small diameter rope through the spark plug hole until no more will feed in. Then rotate ( with a wrench on the crank nut, do not bump the starter) the piston the rest of the way up to tdc or until it stops. The valves should not drop down. Then you can compress the springs on that cylinder and check the seals. reassemble the springs and retainers , pull the rope out of the spark plug hole, and move to the next cylinder.

Make sure its one continuous piece of rope and leave plenty hanging out of the spark plug hole.

 

[maverickfhs]

Originally Posted By: spasm3
Originally Posted By: maverickfhs
Originally Posted By: spasm3
Originally Posted By: maverickfhs

P.S: You gave me another good advice, I'll at least pull the valve cover and compare both of them and also see if I notice any issues with seals.

If you have an air compressor and a valve spring compressor you could pressurize each cyl, remove the spring retainers and check/replace the valve stem seals. Maybe some are missing with that much oil burning.


Unfortunately, I don't have a compressor

The old school trick without a compressor, is to get the piston on the cyl you are working on, just below top dead center. Feed small diameter rope through the spark plug hole until no more will feed in. Then rotate ( with a wrench on the crank nut, do not bump the starter) the piston the rest of the way up to tdc or until it stops. The valves should not drop down. Then you can compress the springs on that cylinder and check the seals. reassemble the springs and retainers , pull the rope out of the spark plug hole, and move to the next cylinder.

Make sure its one continuous piece of rope and leave plenty hanging out of the spark plug hole.


Thanks so much spasm3, you are a helpful dude

I appreciate it, yes I am researching and looking on youtube, as well as reading about it. One of the Lisle magnetic tool also seems to be very cool for this kind of job!

 

[FZ1]

I wouldn't put those plugs back in. Get some new plugs in there.