How are these Spark plugs looking?

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The white deposits show that the oil you are consuming is being burned (not leaked).

You need to determine the source of the oil, it could be something as simple as PCV, or you may have valve seals pooping the bed, stuck oil control rings...etc.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
The white deposits show that the oil you are consuming is being burned (not leaked).

You need to determine the source of the oil, it could be something as simple as PCV, or you may have valve seals pooping the bed, stuck oil control rings...etc.


Thanks, PCV valve is new and have been replaced few months ago, no visible smoke at start up or during acceleration or deceleration and no leak on the driveway either. But definitely being burned and going somewhere
frown.gif


It all started after re-manufactured head cylinder head was put on. Are stuck oil control rings there in the head or bottom end? How can I check valve seals are causing this issue?

Thanks for all the help.
 
Originally Posted By: maverickfhs


It all started after re-manufactured head cylinder head was put on.


This is a good clue as to what the cause may be. Rings are in the block and if it wasn't burning oil before are an unlikely source of the oil burning after the head was replaced.
I would guess something along the lines of improperly installed valve seals or even a gasket issue (unlikely) like installed upside down with the oil drain back holes only partially exposed if that's even possible on this engine, I don't know.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: maverickfhs


It all started after re-manufactured head cylinder head was put on.


This is a good clue as to what the cause may be. Rings are in the block and if it wasn't burning oil before are an unlikely source of the oil burning after the head was replaced.
I would guess something along the lines of improperly installed valve seals or even a gasket issue (unlikely) like installed upside down with the oil drain back holes only partially exposed if that's even possible on this engine, I don't know.


Thanks Trav, we didn't install any seals inside the head, since head came all ready to go. We just prepared the surface, put a new valve cover gasket and spark plug seals, using my memory, I think that's about it.
 
Originally Posted By: maverickfhs
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: maverickfhs


It all started after re-manufactured head cylinder head was put on.


This is a good clue as to what the cause may be. Rings are in the block and if it wasn't burning oil before are an unlikely source of the oil burning after the head was replaced.
I would guess something along the lines of improperly installed valve seals or even a gasket issue (unlikely) like installed upside down with the oil drain back holes only partially exposed if that's even possible on this engine, I don't know.


Thanks Trav, we didn't install any seals inside the head, since head came all ready to go. We just prepared the surface, put a new valve cover gasket and spark plug seals, using my memory, I think that's about it.


As Trav indicated, if that's what was changed before this started, it is an immediate suspect. Where did the head come from?
 
Wow, you are a brave man! LOL!

I would have had your original head reconditioned at a local machine shop of good repute. What was the cause of you needing the read re-done?
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Wow, you are a brave man! LOL!

I would have had your original head reconditioned at a local machine shop of good repute. What was the cause of you needing the read re-done?


LOL, I can be at times
laugh.gif


Car jumped timing while driving, it needed quite a few valves and hence went for a re-manufactured head route. I still have the old head, worst case I'll just get it re-build locally and swap it in summer.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Wow, you are a brave man! LOL!




+1 on that.


I dont doubt the seller's work but when you do so many heads, you are bound to have some minor issues now and then. Your head MIGHT be one of them. At this point unless you pull the head it going to be a [censored] shoot as to what the problems are.
 
Originally Posted By: maverickfhs
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Wow, you are a brave man! LOL!

I would have had your original head reconditioned at a local machine shop of good repute. What was the cause of you needing the read re-done?


LOL, I can be at times
laugh.gif


Car jumped timing while driving, it needed quite a few valves and hence went for a re-manufactured head route. I still have the old head, worst case I'll just get it re-build locally and swap it in summer.



Did you check the pistons and cylinder walls when you had the head off? Pistons kissing valves isn't a one-sided scenario, there's the potential for some other damage from this as well.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: maverickfhs
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Wow, you are a brave man! LOL!

I would have had your original head reconditioned at a local machine shop of good repute. What was the cause of you needing the read re-done?


LOL, I can be at times
laugh.gif


Car jumped timing while driving, it needed quite a few valves and hence went for a re-manufactured head route. I still have the old head, worst case I'll just get it re-build locally and swap it in summer.



Did you check the pistons and cylinder walls when you had the head off? Pistons kissing valves isn't a one-sided scenario, there's the potential for some other damage from this as well.


Yeah, there was no visible damage. After above comments now I am leaning towards bad valve seals or leaky valve seals causing this to happen.
 
Start with a compression and leak down test and look at the bores with a boroscope. Its not that common but you may be dealing with broken rings or ring land damage.
If that's the case its good night Irene, rebuild or replace time. This job could get ugly real fast any which way you want to look at it.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Start with a compression and leak down test and look at the bores with a boroscope. Its not that common but you may be dealing with broken rings or ring land damage.
If that's the case its good night Irene, rebuild or replace time. This job could get ugly real fast any which way you want to look at it.



Makes perfect sense, thanks Trav. I'll do a compression test and see what reading I'll get.
 
Ash fouled/ oil consumption.. I had that same problem but worse on a ford 3.8. It was valve seals/guides. Two of the six plugs would eventually get bridged across with the deposits.
 
The 'new head' and 'old plugs' have me stumped..

I cant really understand how you arent smoking at startup and deceleration.. you must have a heck of a catalytic converter.


Anyways you state that you put the head on yourself so i would look into a valve adjustment, perhaps its wrong. While you are in there look at the valve seals.
 
Thanks everyone, I am going to test compression with another gauge, but I just tested and from left to right numbers are all over the place:

100 200 150 190

All are dry compression numbers. Can poor valve adjustment cause just abnormal compression values?

Thanks for all the help.
 
Sure valve adjustment can effect compression and drivabilty. You did this test with warm engine and WOT right? Compare it now to a wet test. Those numbers are not good on #1&3 cylinders.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Sure valve adjustment can effect compression and drivabilty. You did this test with warm engine and WOT right? Compare it now to a wet test. Those numbers are not good on #1&3 cylinders.


Thanks, car has been driven like a grandpa.

Car has not been started since yesterday evening, so it was cold.

I am going to take some wet readings and post them as well.
 
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