I have lingered here for a while but haven't started a profile, so I would like to start by saying that the information I gleaned from the forum is priceless! Thank you to all contributors.
I recently came acroas a post (from 2004) in a Honda S2000 forum (s2ki.com) and was wondering if this suggestion is worth the cost/effort for daily driven vehicles (see point #7 below):
Quote:
Some UOA's I have seen:
1) M1 is consistently good, but never spectacularly good
2) Royal Purple is also good, but tends to lose its viscosity very fast. It does not appear to be an EDI (extended drain interval) product, its claims notwithstanding.
3) The 0w40 oils will shear down,. no matter what their base stocks are. Keep your viscosity spread as narrow as conditions permit.
4) GM engines have high copper wear rates.
5) Subaru and Honda seem to make the best engines. Surprise!!!
6) Red Line is above average or higher in nearly all testing, including some cars run very hard. It is always a solid choice.
7) It is always a good idea to change the oil filter at the middle of your OCI, with makeup oil. The insolubles in the oil will be reduced significantly.
8) "Performance" aire filters nearly always produce higher silicon levels in the oil.
9) At about 130k miles, either replace your injectors, or be prepared to lower your OCI. Dirt will eventually damage the pintles, reducing volumetric efficiency and raising fuel dilution of the oil. Even the extended drain oils will become thin.
10) The Camry V6 is the toughest engine on oil i have seen except for...
11) ...the BMW E46!!! This engine is not BMW's finest design.
12) If your car is one those European wonders where they will only change the oil when the computer says so, do your own oil changes. I saw a UOA on a Mercedes at 8843 where the TBN was .43 - it had depleted all its additives, leaving the engine bare naked. Even though the computer did finally catch it, had something one awry (like a bad batch of gas) this engine was set up for some high wear conditions.
13) Although base stocks are important, the additives are more so. UOA's show that using an ester (as much as I like them) but forgoing some AW compounds (like moly) in the process is not giving the protection that the base stocks + the best additives (and forget the API) can offer.
I recently came acroas a post (from 2004) in a Honda S2000 forum (s2ki.com) and was wondering if this suggestion is worth the cost/effort for daily driven vehicles (see point #7 below):
Quote:
Some UOA's I have seen:
1) M1 is consistently good, but never spectacularly good
2) Royal Purple is also good, but tends to lose its viscosity very fast. It does not appear to be an EDI (extended drain interval) product, its claims notwithstanding.
3) The 0w40 oils will shear down,. no matter what their base stocks are. Keep your viscosity spread as narrow as conditions permit.
4) GM engines have high copper wear rates.
5) Subaru and Honda seem to make the best engines. Surprise!!!
6) Red Line is above average or higher in nearly all testing, including some cars run very hard. It is always a solid choice.
7) It is always a good idea to change the oil filter at the middle of your OCI, with makeup oil. The insolubles in the oil will be reduced significantly.
8) "Performance" aire filters nearly always produce higher silicon levels in the oil.
9) At about 130k miles, either replace your injectors, or be prepared to lower your OCI. Dirt will eventually damage the pintles, reducing volumetric efficiency and raising fuel dilution of the oil. Even the extended drain oils will become thin.
10) The Camry V6 is the toughest engine on oil i have seen except for...
11) ...the BMW E46!!! This engine is not BMW's finest design.
12) If your car is one those European wonders where they will only change the oil when the computer says so, do your own oil changes. I saw a UOA on a Mercedes at 8843 where the TBN was .43 - it had depleted all its additives, leaving the engine bare naked. Even though the computer did finally catch it, had something one awry (like a bad batch of gas) this engine was set up for some high wear conditions.
13) Although base stocks are important, the additives are more so. UOA's show that using an ester (as much as I like them) but forgoing some AW compounds (like moly) in the process is not giving the protection that the base stocks + the best additives (and forget the API) can offer.
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