06 Honda 5-speed Auto Trans & Timing belt

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Just purchased a 2006 Honda Accord V6 with BAYA 5-Speed auto transmission. Car came with a stack of Honda dealer service invoices but nothing to indicate an ATF change. It appears the last two owners were waiting for the Maintenance Minder to tell them to service the Transmission. ATF fluid is purple in color but doesn't smell burnt. One Honda service invoice shows an additive added to the ATF and motor oil. Find this curious as my old 97 Civic owners manual specifies no use of oil additives.

Anyway, I've heard that apparently this transmission does not have a filter and that I should dump and fill the ATF for the next few oil changes, which I will probably do. Honestly, I'm kind of bewildered by what Hond's maintenance philosophy has become. Oh! And looks like I will be doing the timing belt, water pump, spark plugs, valve adjust for the first time as well thanks to the Maintenance Minder/procrastinator.

Any other suggestions?
 
Unless there's Royal Purple ATF in there, it shouldn't usually purple. New ATF is red and becomes darker as it ages; totally spent ATF is black.

I agree with doing several drain & fills but you don't have to space them out over several OCIs. One every few hundred miles will suffice and gradually freshen up the system.

What's the mileage?
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: mclasser
Unless there's Royal Purple ATF in there, it shouldn't usually purple. New ATF is red and becomes darker as it ages; totally spent ATF is black.

I agree with doing several drain & fills but you don't have to space them out over several OCIs. One every few hundred miles will suffice and gradually freshen up the system.

What's the mileage?


Sorry, meant to put mileage, it is 115k.

Yes, darker red ATF I guess. Purple maybe the wrong semantics perhaps. Not fresh bright red is what I was trying to convey.
 
It has 2 filters but they are up inside and not serviceable without opening the unit. That being said, they rarely plug up enough to effect the units performance, I have never seen one plugged.
Amsoil ATF (not ATL) works better in these units than any other fluid I have used (I have done more than a couple), a line off exchange is the best way to do a fluid change on these and is very easy to do. Drain and fill is like pizzin in the lake.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
It has 2 filters but they are up inside and not serviceable without opening the unit. That being said, they rarely plug up enough to effect the units performance, I have never seen one plugged.
Amsoil ATF (not ATL) works better in these units than any other fluid I have used (I have done more than a couple), a line off exchange is the best way to do a fluid change on these and is very easy to do. Drain and fill is like pizzin in the lake.


Thanks! Amsoil ATF was my plan of attack. Can a DIYer like myself do the off line exchange or should I take it to a pro?
 
This is a perfect job for the non pro DIY, you basically only need to remove the return hose at the radiator, put a piece of clear pcv hose over it (so you can see the fluid) and put the other end into a container, I use a gallon jug to make replacing the amount easier.
Have an assistant start the engine and watch the fluid until you see a few air bubbles then shut the engine off. Fill with approx the same amount of fluid you collected in the jug and repeat until the fluid coming out looks the same as whats going in.

When the fluid is nice and red shut the engine off and fill the fluid to the lower mark, start the engine and run it through the gears and lower the car/take it off the ramps. Adjust the fluid level to the cold/lower mark and drive it then check/adjust the fluid level again.

There are probably a few YouTube videos but if you need help we can help walk your through it. Do this once and next time it will be super easy.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
This is a perfect job for the non pro DIY, you basically only need to remove the return hose at the radiator, put a piece of clear pcv hose over it (so you can see the fluid) and put the other end into a container, I use a gallon jug to make replacing the amount easier.
Have an assistant start the engine and watch the fluid until you see a few air bubbles then shut the engine off. Fill with approx the same amount of fluid you collected in the jug and repeat until the fluid coming out looks the same as whats going in.

When the fluid is nice and red shut the engine off and fill the fluid to the lower mark, start the engine and run it through the gears and lower the car/take it off the ramps. Adjust the fluid level to the cold/lower mark and drive it then check/adjust the fluid level again.

There are probably a few YouTube videos but if you need help we can help walk your through it. Do this once and next time it will be super easy.


Okay, this is basically what the Amsoil TSB advised.
 
There is an external in line filter, It is not mentioned in the owners manual but you can replace it with a new one if you so desire. I would recommend changing the transmission fluid if it an anything other than pink / light red. Also, I would use Honda ATF DW-1 for the fluid.
 
Just do a drain and fill every 30,000 miles. There is no need to go overkill on maintenance. The transmission will break after X number of miles, and it probably won't be fluid related.
 
Not to threadjack, but Trav do you know if it's worth replacing that inline filter?

I saw a post here, stating that it's just a metal screen and definitely not worth the hassle, provided ATF has been maintained around 30K mark.

Found it :https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4314039#Post4314039
 
Originally Posted By: Charlie2015
Just do a drain and fill every 30,000 miles. There is no need to go overkill on maintenance. The transmission will break after X number of miles, and it probably won't be fluid related.


I definitely agree with it or maybe do 2-3 D&F, if it's really needed.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
This is a perfect job for the non pro DIY, you basically only need to remove the return hose at the radiator, put a piece of clear pcv hose over it (so you can see the fluid) and put the other end into a container, I use a gallon jug to make replacing the amount easier.
Have an assistant start the engine and watch the fluid until you see a few air bubbles then shut the engine off. Fill with approx the same amount of fluid you collected in the jug and repeat until the fluid coming out looks the same as whats going in.

When the fluid is nice and red shut the engine off and fill the fluid to the lower mark, start the engine and run it through the gears and lower the car/take it off the ramps. Adjust the fluid level to the cold/lower mark and drive it then check/adjust the fluid level again.

There are probably a few YouTube videos but if you need help we can help walk your through it. Do this once and next time it will be super easy.


Is there a way to identify the A/T return cooler line at the radiator?
 
Originally Posted By: maverickfhs
Not to threadjack, but Trav do you know if it's worth replacing that inline filter?

I saw a post here, stating that it's just a metal screen and definitely not worth the hassle, provided ATF has been maintained around 30K mark.

Found it :https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4314039#Post4314039


Good question.

I saw the inline filter on RockAuto so was a bit confused when some say no serviceable filter. If it's not worth the hassle I won't worry about it.
 
BTW, while we are on the topic of Honda maintenance, I've had good luck buying my genuine OEM Honda parts from Majestic Honda. Anyone else have good online Honda parts sites?
 
Originally Posted By: GemStater
BTW, while we are on the topic of Honda maintenance, I've had good luck buying my genuine OEM Honda parts from Majestic Honda. Anyone else have good online Honda parts sites?


For Honda fluids, I usually go to local stealership, because shipping can be a pain!

For anything else and OEM, either Amazon/eBay or RA for aftermarket. AAP can be a good option, at certain times.

For OEM parts, there are quite a few of them, but shipping can be a pain, again. Unless, someone is offering free shipping, which I don't know and would love to know.
 
The filter p/n that is referenced on the other BITOG linked thread is 25450-RAY-003 & lists for $22.35 but Bernardi shows it for $15.69 currently. I don't know what aftermarket p/n that translates to. Pretty easy to do.

In regards to online dealership parts departments, Bernardi does actually put the p/n on their site while few do (& they ship chemicals should you need any). You've also got HondaAutomotiveParts.com, G1Parts.com, HondaPartsDeals.com, & 1sthondaparts.com, etc. Some offer coupons for free shipping, etc. Also, shipping (& handling looking at you HondaAutomotiveParts) must be taken into account depending upon ship to address. So what may be cheaper for me may be more expensive to you based upon distance from dealership physical location.
 
Some units had the spin on in addition to the internal filters and some don't even though it is listed for it. Make sure it is present before ordering one or you have a nice paper weight,
If it is there it is always a good idea to change it even though it isn't much more than a rock catcher.
 
I guess, OP has same filter too :25430-PLR-003

I left on mine, alone because it's a pain to get to it and read on many places it might not be worth it.

Hence, I asked you Trav, thanks for your help. I am going to look at replacing it too.
smile.gif


Good luck OP
thumbsup2.gif
 
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