Maxlife ATF for Toyota WS

[doublebase]

I have used it in a customer's 4 runner and they never came back with any problems, but it was also just a simple drain and refill. And we also used the maxlife simply because a new kid drained the tranny pan instead of the oil pan and the customer couldn't wait for the WS fluid to arrive, so in went the Maxlife. Still the guy has never complained of shifting problems.

Personally I wouldn't do it with my own car just because I've experienced what can happen with fluid that isn't OEM. I put something that was compatible with a honda transmission in one once...I has to drain the whole thing and put the genuine stuff in after the thing shifted funny. Boom, problem was solved.

I've used the WS fluid and it seems like decent stuff...shop around...I've got it for $6-7 bucks a quart.

 

[CT8]

Originally Posted By: Subdued
Originally Posted By: norpat
I'm confused on Maxlife ATF as it seems many have suggested it synthetic. Reading thru the specs online, I could not find where it was synthetic.

I did read where it said with "base oils" blend which would suggest non-synthetic.

comments welcome.


"base oils" just means the lubricant without any additives. base oil is synthetic or conventional or a blend.

Maxlife uses synthetic base oils.
GPIII is considered syn oil .

 

[Rhymingmechanic]

A few WS threads are going now, but I'll comment here since I have some experience with WS and Maxlife in my '10 Vibe, Toyota U341E 4-speed trans. My example may have a lot more to do with the car's history than fluid.

I started considering a switch to Maxlife since this topic came up some time ago. I have stayed with WS so far, to keep the recommended fluid under warranty. (I need to check the warranty terms--the maximum time may be over by now.)

I did use a little Maxlife--1/2 quart each for two pan changes--with some odd UOA results.

Here's the hopefully short version of a long story:

I bought the car used in late 2010 with 29,000 miles on it and have drained the pan (2.5-2.7 quarts per change) nine times as of 71k. I drained the ATF soon after getting the car, and it looked like motor oil with a creamy gray color mixed in. I did another change with UOA soon after, and have basically done 2 changes and one Blackstone UOA per year since then.

UOA results came back with high aluminum: 117, 92, 65, and 46.

cSt@100C was: 5.27, 5.36, 5.16, 5.10.

Flashpoint (F) was: 345, 380, 365 and 415.

The third and fourth samples included Lubegard red at the recommended dose, and the last one had 1/2 quart of Maxlife in a total capacity of about 8 quarts.

I don't know what any of that says about WS or Maxlife, or Lubegard. It seems unlikely that a small bit of Maxlife would raise the flashpoint significantly. Maybe the WS formula changed, but I think the last two UOAs are from a stock of oil that I ordered all at once. The trans has always worked fine, by the way, and Blackstone says there's no reason for concern since aluminum is trending down.

 

[147_Grain]

Looks like the MaxLife and LubeGard Red likely helped your UOA's with a nice increase of Flashpoint as well.

 

[Graham Piccinini]

Originally Posted By: toyo
I want to hear from owners that have gone 75K to 100K on Maxlife. Heck, just about any type of trans fluid will work for a mere 10 to 15K miles.

I know a backyard mechanic who got some trans fluid for his Dodge Caravan. Simple drain&fill. The fluid specifically stated that it is for Dodge/Chrysler vehicles, and was made by STP. After 3 miles transmission stopped shifting whatsoever. He drained it, refilled with OEM fluid and slowly trans came back to its senses. He had to do a full flush to get it working properly again. So 10k-15k is a very good indicator of performance in my book.

 

[Graham Piccinini]

Bringing thread back to life lol.

 

[skaughtz]

I got my 2007 Camry with 60k miles on her. To my knowledge, the ATF had never been changed, so I did a cooler line flush and replaced the Toyota WS with Maxlife as soon as I got it. I have been running that for about 30k miles now, and I have noticed absolutely zero degradation in shifting or transmission function. I plan on replacing the filter and doing a drain and fill with Maxlife shortly. I fully support its use over Toyota WS, but I also believe that clean fluid and routine maintenance are far more important than brand labels.

There are detailed conversations on this very topic across toyotanation. The overwhelming consensus there is that Toyota WS is a far inferior fluid to Maxlife at least in Toyota transmissions.

 

[MaximaGuy]

Originally Posted By: skaughtz
I plan on replacing the filter and doing a drain and fill with Maxlife shortly.


Why would you do this if you have a schedule to replace the fluid?
Dropping the pan and replacing the screen gets you nothing whatsoever,the only heartburn you get is a leaking pan or cross threaded bolt.

 

[nthach]

Originally Posted By: MaximaGuy
Originally Posted By: skaughtz
I plan on replacing the filter and doing a drain and fill with Maxlife shortly.


Why would you do this if you have a schedule to replace the fluid?
Dropping the pan and replacing the screen gets you nothing whatsoever,the only heartburn you get is a leaking pan or cross threaded bolt.

A few of Toyota's most recent trannies uses a Filtran-made filter, not unlike a Ford/GM/Chrysler and ZF/Mercedes unit.

However, I did crossthread a bolt on a U151E. So far, the parents report no fluid puddles on the garage floor for the past 10 years. A Magnefine and 4 quarts of MaxLife are going in.

 

[nthach]

I switched my T-IV applications to MaxLife - the oldest car is probably going to a junkyard after I'm done with it and the other will be a long trip car that me and my parents will use after they get their Tesla.

My parent's Prius will stay on WS, even though Valvoline(and Afton/Lubrizol) say ML might be OK in a hybrid transaxle, it's too expensive of an experiment to find out - a few guys on PriusChat saw elevated metals after swapping over to Red Line D6.

 

[skaughtz]

Originally Posted By: MaximaGuy
Originally Posted By: skaughtz
I plan on replacing the filter and doing a drain and fill with Maxlife shortly.


Why would you do this if you have a schedule to replace the fluid?
Dropping the pan and replacing the screen gets you nothing whatsoever,the only heartburn you get is a leaking pan or cross threaded bolt.


To my knowledge, the car ran on the factory fill of Toyota WS for 60k miles. From what I have read and seen discussed, WS should not be run more than 30k, by which time it has already started to break down. Although I did a full flush at 60k with Maxlife, I would rather not run the filter longer than 100k. A leaky pan or crossthreaded bolt are still a [censored] of a lot cheaper than a replacement transmission, but, since it really isn't that difficult of a job and I tend to be methodical and precise, I'll take my chances

 

[Hogwash]

Reviving this thread. We bought a 2010 Toyota Yaris for our daughter to drive. It has 126k miles on it. I have no idea if or when the fluid was changed. My plan is to forgo the WS fluid and do a drain and fill with Valvoline ML....run it for a few days and repeat.

Hopefully that will net me mostly new fluid. From what I've read on this thread, that sounds like a decent plan.

I'll add that the tranny currently shifts perfectly...smooth and responsive.

Any last minute opinions from the experts before I do this?

 

[bmwtechguy]

I'm not sure I'm one of the "experts", but I will tell you that in all of the Toyotas and other cars I have use Maxlife ATF in, I have yet to experience anything other than excellent results. This is truly a great product for the money, and seems to be more difficult to find this ATF around here for some reason...

 

[Oro_O]

Originally Posted By: Hogwash
Reviving this thread. We bought a 2010 Toyota Yaris for our daughter to drive. It has 126k miles on it. I have no idea if or when the fluid was changed. My plan is to forgo the WS fluid and do a drain and fill with Valvoline ML....run it for a few days and repeat.

Hopefully that will net me mostly new fluid. From what I've read on this thread, that sounds like a decent plan.

I'll add that the tranny currently shifts perfectly...smooth and responsive.

Any last minute opinions from the experts before I do this?


No reason not to do what you plan. That is sound. ML makes a very good replacement for WS and DexVI (less so for some applications of prior gen T-IV and DexVI). Two drain/fills should get you to ~55% new fluid.

 

[Hogwash]

Originally Posted By: Or
Originally Posted By: Hogwash
Reviving this thread. We bought a 2010 Toyota Yaris for our daughter to drive. It has 126k miles on it. I have no idea if or when the fluid was changed. My plan is to forgo the WS fluid and do a drain and fill with Valvoline ML....run it for a few days and repeat.

Hopefully that will net me mostly new fluid. From what I've read on this thread, that sounds like a decent plan.

I'll add that the tranny currently shifts perfectly...smooth and responsive.

Any last minute opinions from the experts before I do this?


No reason not to do what you plan. That is sound. ML makes a very good replacement for WS and DexVI (less so for some applications of prior gen T-IV and DexVI). Two drain/fills should get you to ~55% new fluid.


Maybe I'll do more than 2 then. Thanks

 

[Mainia]

Toyota WS what a horrible ATF. Was totally burnt in my Wife's new 19,000 lease return Rav4, MaxLife #3 choice would be far better then WS ( <--Worst Stuff ) Amsoil Signature Series ATF #2 choice or my favorite Redline D6.

 

[MaximaGuy]

Originally Posted By: Mainia
Toyota WS what a horrible ATF. Was totally burnt in my Wife's new 19,000 lease return Rav4, MaxLife #3 choice would be far better then WS ( div>


If its a lease where is the heartburn!!! You shouldn't even touch it if it is a lease.

 

[crainholio]

The only vehicle I've had bad experience with MaxLife on was my wife's '05 Mercury Mariner (Ford Escape) with CD4E transmission. Made the downshifts very harsh, e.g. uphill and passing acceleration. Noticeable thud when the trans went from 4 to 3rd gear, or any downshift. I re-flushed with Castrol Dex-Merc and after a few days it was back to normal. The trans specifies Mercon, likely higher 100degC viscosity than Mercon V from what I recall.

I flushed my '07 4Runner with WS last Summer at 164K miles and it's been fine. Based on what I'm reading here, the decisionmaking criteria are cost and longevity of the fluid. No claimed improvement in shifting versus good WS, it works well, costs less, and stays red longer. Next flush will be an opportunity to consider MaxLife and I appreciate all the info shared.

 

[Rhymingmechanic]

Originally Posted By: Hogwash
Reviving this thread. We bought a 2010 Toyota Yaris for our daughter to drive. It has 126k miles on it. I have no idea if or when the fluid was changed. My plan is to forgo the WS fluid and do a drain and fill with Valvoline ML....run it for a few days and repeat.

Hopefully that will net me mostly new fluid. From what I've read on this thread, that sounds like a decent plan.


Sounds like a good plan, but I'd probably change a third time.

The crush washer may be reusable once more, but you might want a couple on hand just in case. NAPA #ATM-PB2403 fits my 2010 Vibe with the 4-speed U341E. That's a thick washer like the Toyota part. NAPA has another one that is much thinner.

Look for Maxlife gallons at Wal-Mart for about $18.

 

[mctmatt]

I can only say that I did a complete ATF exchange on our 2010 Highlander back in 2015 and I chose to refill with MaxLife . I have not had any issues what so ever and this includes many long trips and the fluid still looks a nice cherry red and no burnt smell . The WS ATF was basically black.