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#4637502 - 01/17/18 08:44 AM Basement Framing
ET16 Offline


Registered: 10/28/08
Posts: 1265
Loc: MD
I'm in the middle of a basement framing project. I've got some semi-skilled guys on the job and am in a bit of a quandary about the quality and speed of their work. I know many of the basics of framing and have been advising on some things, but I don't know how far I want to go with criticizing their work. For example, they just finished framing for pre-hung closet doors. I was looking at the header this morning and realized that the whole thing is relying on construction screws to mitigate any potential sagging. There are no jack studs and there is only one 2x4 spanning the 5' opening for the header which is screwed to the king studs. Cripple studs are screwed into the header board and are anchored into a joist above.

I wouldn't have built the opening this way; I would have designed it to be under compression, but it's non-load bearing, so it may suffice as it is. If it were put together with nails, I don't think I'd let it go. I've never framed with screws, so I don't know if my concerns are a result of incomplete knowledge.

Any opinions?

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#4637530 - 01/17/18 09:27 AM Re: Basement Framing [Re: ET16]
Alfred_B Offline


Registered: 05/12/15
Posts: 1965
Loc: America
I have always been surprised at the lack of respect for their own output by people who claim to be in trades.

It's not load bearing so it may be OK for the foreseeable future. But not good for the long term.

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#4637534 - 01/17/18 09:31 AM Re: Basement Framing [Re: ET16]
emmett442 Offline


Registered: 12/07/16
Posts: 174
Loc: Wisconsin
As mentioned, the header isn't supporting anything in this application. It's more to provide a place to attach the door frame and drywall.

Perfectly acceptable and typical of what you'll find in any finished basement.
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#4637556 - 01/17/18 09:59 AM Re: Basement Framing [Re: ET16]
CT8 Offline


Registered: 10/09/14
Posts: 10920
Loc: Idaho
You are paying for the job, get it done how you want it done.
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#4637596 - 01/17/18 10:49 AM Re: Basement Framing [Re: ET16]
IndyIan Offline


Registered: 09/23/08
Posts: 9090
Loc: Ontario, Canada
2 screws per stud atleast? I guess for a closet it would be fine, not for a people door though. Screws hold alot better but for a door that could get slammed the extra wood is a good idea.
I messed up some framing to cover the vent pipe at our knee wall that I put together with screws and it was quite tough to dismantle with a framing hammer...
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#4637638 - 01/17/18 11:29 AM Re: Basement Framing [Re: emmett442]
Linctex Offline


Registered: 12/31/16
Posts: 6148
Loc: Waco, TX
Originally Posted By: emmett442
As mentioned, the header isn't supporting anything in this application. It's more to provide a place to attach the door frame and drywall. Perfectly acceptable and typical of what you'll find in any finished basement.


Correct.


Your basement was already 100% structurally sound before any finish work began, remember?

They aren't adding "load bearing structure".

There's no need for it; it's already been done before the project began.
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#4637647 - 01/17/18 11:39 AM Re: Basement Framing [Re: ET16]
PimTac Offline


Registered: 03/04/17
Posts: 4213
Loc: Soviet State of Washington
If these are off the street hires your contractor is bringing in then calling them framers is an insult to the real framers in this world.

Workers who cut out joists entirely to fit plumbing through or to make room donít care about structural integrity ten years down the line. Itís a real shame.
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#4637669 - 01/17/18 12:00 PM Re: Basement Framing [Re: ET16]
ET16 Offline


Registered: 10/28/08
Posts: 1265
Loc: MD
Thanks for the replies. I was looking at it again. I guess it'll be okay. It's one of those cases where I know just enough to get me into trouble. I recognize that there isn't any real load here, but I thought the way it was framed there could be a little sagging long-term, which could affect the door frame.

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#4637702 - 01/17/18 12:38 PM Re: Basement Framing [Re: ET16]
eyeofthetiger Offline


Registered: 11/18/17
Posts: 683
Loc: South Carolina
It will be okay, but it is not up to my standards. I like 2x4 framing with studs 8" on center, triple headers, quadruple corners, secured with 3" screws and additional metal strapping and corner braces.
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#4637716 - 01/17/18 12:49 PM Re: Basement Framing [Re: eyeofthetiger]
emmett442 Offline


Registered: 12/07/16
Posts: 174
Loc: Wisconsin
Originally Posted By: eyeofthetiger
It will be okay, but it is not up to my standards. I like 2x4 framing with studs 8" on center, triple headers, quadruple corners, secured with 3" screws and additional metal strapping and corner braces.


laugh
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#4637717 - 01/17/18 12:50 PM Re: Basement Framing [Re: emmett442]
pandus13 Offline


Registered: 08/12/11
Posts: 3176
Loc: Chicago,IL,USA
Originally Posted By: emmett442
Originally Posted By: eyeofthetiger
It will be okay, but it is not up to my standards. I like 2x4 framing with studs 8" on center, triple headers, quadruple corners, secured with 3" screws and additional metal strapping and corner braces.


laugh

Do you have any bears in the family? or sumo wrestlers? earth-movers?
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#4637720 - 01/17/18 12:54 PM Re: Basement Framing [Re: ET16]
emmett442 Offline


Registered: 12/07/16
Posts: 174
Loc: Wisconsin
Originally Posted By: ET16
I thought the way it was framed there could be a little sagging long-term, which could affect the door frame.


Once the drywall is attached, it'll be all tied together anyway. Yes, I know, drywall isn't a real framing material - but for the loads in question (which is simply the weight of the drywall you'll be attaching to your framing), it's plenty sufficient. Think about it : if you'd stand a 4x8 sheet of drywall vertical, and support it only on each bottom corner, the span between the corners would never sag. Vertically hanging drywall is plenty rigid to support itself. Extra framing not required.

Again, your wall framing is merely a square and flat surface to screw your drywall and utilities to. Nothing more. It bears no load. But, if it bothers you, "fix" it.

The only time you really have to worry about structure and sag is the ceiling (drywall is weak in this dimension) and traditional doorways that can rack/shake from a operating door, especially when "slammed". Even then, not much is required. a doubled up 2.4 works fine.
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#4637776 - 01/17/18 02:04 PM Re: Basement Framing [Re: ET16]
JLawrence08648 Offline


Registered: 01/20/17
Posts: 231
Loc: NJ
I am not a carpenter just a diy and handyman. I'm afraid it will bow in the middle. I'd go with at least a 2x6 if not a 2x8. If it bows then what will you do? At the very least sister on another 2x4. With the weight of the above studs, sheetrock, tape, spackle, paint, that's a lot of weight. And check square by putting a 4' level in the middle, on the end studs, and a square in the corners.

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#4637875 - 01/17/18 04:11 PM Re: Basement Framing [Re: eyeofthetiger]
JC1 Offline


Registered: 11/29/08
Posts: 2999
Loc: Oshawa, Ontario Canada
8" on center? Do you own a lumber company? Usual framing is 16" or 24" on center.
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#4637896 - 01/17/18 04:32 PM Re: Basement Framing [Re: JC1]
pandus13 Offline


Registered: 08/12/11
Posts: 3176
Loc: Chicago,IL,USA
Originally Posted By: JC1
8" on center? Do you own a lumber company? Usual framing is 16" or 24" on center.

Relax.
It was a joke. Who uses 3" screws?
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