Rec. Filter for Updtated Pentastar? 2018 Wrangler

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I run Fram Ultras in my vehicles with spin on filters, but don't know much about cartridge filters. What does BITOG say about them? Recommendations for a new updated (gen 2) Pentastar?
 
Use Fram or Mobil filters.

According to Scotty Kilmer (with 50 years of experience as mechanic, just to **** the critics) cartridge filters are old tech and tend to make a mess, but they do the same work as a spin-on filter.
 
Originally Posted By: FermeLaPorte
Use Fram or Mobil filters.

According to Scotty Kilmer (with 50 years of experience as mechanic, just to **** the critics) cartridge filters are old tech and tend to make a mess, but they do the same work as a spin-on filter.


That statement doesn't make any sense. I can change the carts on my two cars and the previous GM Ecotecs I had without a drop of oil spilling anywhere. Unscrew a spin on filter and you get an arm full of oil.

For the Pentastar, the Wix does well.
 
When you change a spin on filter, you remove all the debris that is trapped in the can with the filter.
When you remove a cartridge filter there is a chance that the dirty oil and some debris on the surface of the media can remain in the engine.

That said, I really like the cartridge filter in my ecotec.
 
Is there any difference in construction on the Fram XG11655 and others, or is it just the media on each that is different? I had an Ecotec in a 2006 Solstice, and never lost a drip with an oil change. (Man, I miss that car!)
 
The fram XG 11655 is what i've been using. It seems to be a better constructed filter than the Mopar and they're the same price. Every time i look at the MO-349 it looks worse .
 
Running the fram XG myself at the moment. We'll see what she looks like at 8k miles.
Unless you went and broke something those engines don't make anything to filter out in the first place.

With the cart filter in the 3.6 you dump the filtered junk into the oil pan when you remove it. It doesn't drain back until you open the housing. Remove oil after filter and all the bits are gone.

Whatever's left gets filtered ASAP when you start again. It's the first stop after the oil pickup.
 
The risk of an Ultra cartridge coming apart wouldn't be worth it to me.

I just use the Mopar in my brother's Jeep. They always seem to look good here even after 10k. His hasn't seem that sort of mileage yet.
 
Is the Mopar equivalent the MO-744, or does the updated Pentastar spec a new one? I'll be doing the Jeep Wave program, which comes with new Jeeps and gives you the first 4 oil changes for free at the dealership. I'll be curious as to what oils they'll offer. Whatever it is, free makes them sound great!
 
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DdDd said,
"With the cart filter in the 3.6 you dump the filtered junk into the oil pan when you remove it." HOW? Does that extending thing open a valve or something?

"It doesn't drain back until you open the housing." How?

"Remove oil after filter and all the bits are gone." That I get (I suppose). The filter housing oil drains into the pan.
 
Originally Posted By: WobblyElvis
When you change a spin on filter, you remove all the debris that is trapped in the can with the filter.
When you remove a cartridge filter there is a chance that the dirty oil and some debris on the surface of the media can remain in the engine.

That said, I really like the cartridge filter in my ecotec.


I've never seen much dirty oil or any debris on the side of the filter housing, it looks nice and clean in fact. I'd be more concerned of the 1/2 quart of more of dirty oil that doesn't come out in many applications when an oil change is done.

That said I really like the cartridge filters too. Especially if you like to use a filter for 2 OCIs. You can unscrew the cap, drain the housing, inspect the filter, and use it again.
 
No, it's the MO-349. Anyone with half a brain could look at both filters and determine that the Fram filter is the better constructed filter.
 
Cartridge filters are old tech. They were the first type of filters usen on engines with filters. I hated them when we had equipment at work with a cartridge filter.That being said the one on my 2015 Ford is on the top andpointed in the proper direction for super easy changes [other than the Orings]
 
I changed a cartridge filter many times on the 1950 Mercury coupe that my grandfather bought new. It was a bypass, not full flow.
It's an interesting point, what prevents dirt in the housing from flowing back into the engine on a top mounted cartridge?
 
I wouldn't worry about it. What I'd worry about should already be trapped in the filter, not suspended in the oil. Besides, you wouldn't even know how many times your engine goes into bypass and the oil goes around again without being filtered. I'd bet that happens when at full throttle, under heavy load, or when extremely cold. In bypass, you'll get more unfiltered oil going through the engine in a couple seconds than you will dripping out of the filter. I just wouldn't stress over it.

One thing I like about cartridge filters is that I can see how they hold up without having to cut them. When I had my Solstice, I saw that Purolator Pur One filters started to fray and look like they were coming apart after a long OCI. I ran a Wal Mart Supertech to 8 or 9k and it looked perfect. I think I remember the Purolator fraying at 5k. I had two of them do that and then I quit using them.

I examined a Mopar, regular Fram, and Ultra Guard for the Pentastar today. They all looked well made, so I would feel fine about running any of them. The Mopar was the most expensive, though, so I'll likely go with the Ultra Guard after I'm done with the 4 free dealer oil changes.
 
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Why would there be dirt in the housing? That's like saying what prevents dirt from getting in the transmission. I have a 2016 Grand Cherokee and Jeep Sahara they both use the filter cartridge and they're by far the easiest oil changes i've ever done.
 
Well, I now have a new appreciation for the "new tech" spin-on oil filter. You'll love this.

The story of the Ford Eco-Bust.

I just got handed a $13,000 estimate for the complete replacement of my Ford Transit's Ecoboost engine. Why? My wife went to a trusted oil change outfit in our small town. The tech who put the shiny new Ultra Guard oil filter on it did not notice that the gasket from the old one was still stuck to the filter mounting surface on the engine. He proceeded to tighten the filter, which didn't appreciate the double seal, causing one of the seals to pinch. They filled the engine with beautiful, golden Mobil 1 5w30 EP, started it up, and allegedly visually checked it. When on the road, higher oil pressure breached the pinch in the gaskets and the oil began pumping out onto the road, as my wife unkowingly drove along, everything sounding normal. A couple days later, she reported to me that the check engine light was on. We had recently had O2 sensors replaced at a local garage, so I figured one of them might have been bad. She then said, "Oh, by the way, the van has been sounding terrible when starting. Once it warms up, though, it seems fine." I went to hear it for myself. I started the engine and it sounded aweful. I immediately shut it down and checked the dip stick. No oil. I looked underneath, and saw a nice puddle of oil. My heart sank. I filled it up with oil, started it again, and saw the oil pumping out onto the driveway. I shut it down quickly and had it towed to the garage. They recommended taking it to the Ford dealer. They found the pinched double-gasket, and said the code was one "they didn't have the ability to deal with." I got the call from Ford a few days ago saying they needed to tear into the engine to see what damage was done. They called yesterday and let me know it would be an entire long block, turbos and all. I told them to put a Ford rebuild in it, which has a 3 year unlimited mileage warranty. (Better than new, for us, which is 5 years/60k. My wife puts 22,000 miles per year on that van).

There are actually a couple other steps and events in the saga, but I don't have the time or space to write them in, so that's the short version.

Here is the good news. I took the garage's receipt, which included the documentation of finding the double gasket, and went back to the owner of the oil change shop. He was very apologetic and immediately took responsibility. He filed an insurance claim right in front of us. The agent asked me to ask the Ford dealer to keep all the parts, including the oil filter. Btw, the service advisor told me that when they cut the filter open, after pouring a little oil off the top, it was as if someone had filled it up with shiny bearing shavings, like beautiful silver sand. Uggh.

At this point, while stinging badly from this, I'm not a huge fan anymore of spin on filters. Why did I not change the oil myself, as I usually do? Because it was winter and it was COLD. That van has a high roof, and it won't fit in my garage, either. I also honestly consider it a fluke. I've never, in all my years of changing oil, had a gasket come off and stick to the mating surface on the filter mount. However, the local garage that discovered it said they've seen it before. What bugs me is that for this to happen, the tech is not looking at and then wiping off the surface, which should be standard procedure. Even if I would have ever had it happen during my own oil changes, I would have seen it when I went to wipe the surface off.

In the end, I applaud the owner of the oil change outfit. He is a man of high character. I've known him for 15 years and it did not surprise me. I'm VERY glad he had insurance, because it is a very small family business and I didn't want to see him financially hurt. In fact, my wife and I discussed it before we went over and were willing to let him pay what he could and then we'd eat the rest. We have always loved that guy. Now we love him even more.

I've been in a state of disbelief over that engine. All the years of taking care of engines, running what I think are the best oils and filters, and tucking my beloved engines to bed at night, and then I lose one seemingly so easily. I now have a new item on the check list. Whenever someone else changes the oil, I'll do a visual inspection of the filter. I've checked them before, and found on rare occasion the filter to have not been tightened enough, but due to bad weather, I didn't check this one, and I don't always do it. Now I will.

I can't tell you how happy I am that my Jeep will have a cartridge filter, front and center, staring me in the face. The first 4 oil changes are on the dealer, so I'll be inspecting the gasket and cap installation after each of those. From then on, as with my old JK, I do them all myself. The Ford pickup, though, goes back to the oil change shop. The filter is a mega pain in the but to get to. Of course, I think they'll be extra careful when they see me drive up. Yes, I'm going back to the same shop. Why wouldn't I? The man stood up and took responsibility. My hat is off to him, and I have the highest respect for him.
 
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Quote:
..... The tech who put the shiny new Ultra Guard oil filter on it did not notice that the gasket from the old one was still stuck to the filter mounting surface on the engine......

Ugh, using the term "tech" in this case seems incongruous. Not noticing, paying attention and/or cleaning the block filter mating surface prior to new filter installation, a novice/amateur mistake.

While I understand the dislike spin-on filters based on this experience, imo hardly an indictment of them. With the added oring(s) installation required, difference in preferred method cartridge installation (open cartridge housing to allow to drain a bit before opening drain plug), one would have to wonder if some "techs" would have even more difficulty getting it right. Especially, but not limited to noted quick lube type places.
 
Originally Posted By: IndyFan
At this point, while stinging badly from this, I'm not a huge fan anymore of spin on filters.


Millions of spin-on filters are used yearly with no problems, but a simple task of changing a spin-on is just too much for someone who probably shouldn't even be changing garbage can liners.
eek.gif
 
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