Nu GDi 2.0l Hyundai/Kia Engine Oil and Filter

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I just got a 2016 Kia Forte EX with 5k miles, with the "Nu GDi 2.0l" engine (non turbo). On the Kia/Hyundai forums, there are some posts that the engines don't like non OEM filters, but without much or any explanation and the forums are too slow to get any answers. There have also been a lot of reports and even recalls recently for the older non GDI engines failing early (60K miles or so) even with regular oil changes. The new GDi one is too new to have reached that point, but a few failures have shown up.

That said, I normally would just run Pennzoil Platinum synthetic with a Wix filter in my past vehicles, and change every 6 months. I wanted to see if I should just continue with that or if there is a better recommendation? I assume the Pennzoil Platinum would have the Kia/Hyundai required certification as well?
 
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Pennzoil Platinum with a Wix filter, changing every 6 months/5K miles (5w20 or 5w30) will be just fine for a normally driven daily driver. Congrats on the new car.
 
What wemay said. One more thing, open the filter box and inspect the filter before leaving the store. I was at O’Reilly Auto Parts yesterday. I was looking at some WIX 51348 filters for my Ford. I found a 51348XP with the anti-drain back valve installed off center (Affinia made).
 
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Originally Posted By: MParr
What wemay said. One more thing, open the filter box and inspect the filter before leaving the store. I was at O’Reilly Auto Parts yesterday. I was looking at some WIX 51348 filters for my Ford. I found a 51348XP with the anti-drain back valve installed off center (Affinia made).

Will do. I'm lucky and live 5 minutes from Summit Racing in Ohio, and get my filters there.
 
I'm a fan of the OEM filter for my KIA car and former 2013 Sonata 2.4L (totalled).
The filter is built like a tank for the significant pressure swings that the Hyundai engines experience (I know there was a thread from a Fram employee on this - but can't find it).
I run OE filters on all my cars/SUVs. Call it real life experience from running a very large light duty truck fleet.
 
Why bother with other filters? Hyundai-Mobis are solid filters made by Mann and you are not saving more than 100 bucks during the lifetime of the car if you buy other filters.

As for oil, all the Kia and Hyundais in Europe come with a solid recomandation for Shell Helix.
 
Kia issued a TSB some time ago regarding problems associated with after-market oil filters. I'm not a gambler so I use Kia filters and an A5-rated synthetic (PUP) 5W30. I prefer a 5W30 over 5W20 because of fuel dilution problems in GDI engines.
 
I’ve had several Hyundai/Kia vehicles over the years and have run Super Texh, Napa, Fram Tough Guard, and Purolator filters on them and never had an issue. The OEM filters are built well and decently priced. I’ve used plenty of those too. I don’t think you will have issues with any quality oil filter. There seems to be a lot of fear on the Hyundai forums about non-OEM filters but in my experience anyway it is unfounded.
 
Originally Posted By: fisher83
I’ve had several Hyundai/Kia vehicles over the years and have run Super Texh, Napa, Fram Tough Guard, and Purolator filters on them and never had an issue. The OEM filters are built well and decently priced. I’ve used plenty of those too. I don’t think you will have issues with any quality oil filter. There seems to be a lot of fear on the Hyundai forums about non-OEM filters but in my experience anyway it is unfounded.


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Now on my fourth Hyundai. I've used a variety of quality filters (Napa Gold, Mobil1, Fram XG, STP EL, etc...) and never encountered any abnormal traits. The OE filters are great too.
 
The Korean Mann Hyundai filter caused engine noise on my Nissan. Don't know why. It Immediatlky went away with a Honda PCX-004. I got one sitting on my desk right now - Bought 2 at the local Hyundia dealer. Looks beautiful from the outside with even a chrome trim ring on the baseplate (!) Remember the filter paper quality and area is most important on flow.

Note that Most Asian cars use the same pin on other than Toyota;
Most Nissan, Kia, Hyundai, Subaru, Honda use the same baseplate and thread. I would spec a Nissan V8 engine application filter size - if it fits; an extra 35% or so filter area cant hurt in winter.

BUT! You would think this new Kia engine would have a loaded cartridge filter now? Still spin on?

Most flat gasket aftermarket filters leaked on me. My Nissan QR25DE is the first one that they didn't There for the Fram or the excellent M1 M110A made by Champ Labs.
 
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Originally Posted By: fisher83
I’ve had several Hyundai/Kia vehicles over the years and have run Super Texh, Napa, Fram Tough Guard, and Purolator filters on them and never had an issue. The OEM filters are built well and decently priced. I’ve used plenty of those too. I don’t think you will have issues with any quality oil filter. There seems to be a lot of fear on the Hyundai forums about non-OEM filters but in my experience anyway it is unfounded.


X3.

There was some validity to the belief years ago and the long past TSB, but even then it only identified one filter as actually causing problems (an ecore). We have used most anything without issue on 2 KIA's a 2012 Aand 2015 model. Manufacturers seem to have long since caught up with whatever was going on with the KIA/Hyundai engines.

But there is certainly nothing wrong with OEM, but this belief that you "have to" use OEM with KIA/Hyundai is internet blab that just refuses to die IMO.
 
I came across something interesting on Rock Auto in regards to Hyundai OEM parts.

There is a company called Auto 7, that sells on rock auto. They are the factory that supplies the OEM parts channel, and they sell OEM parts under the Auto 7 brand name.

I was going to order some filters and see what the deal is. There is a thread on one of the hyundai forums where a guy takes apart an OEM filter from the dealer, versus an Auto 7 filter, and they were identical.

Down to the "smell" of the filter media, lol.

I have read on this forum that Hyundai had some issues with oil pressure spiking, and they forced the OEM factory to build basically a race filter that can handle huge pressure numbers that are uncommon with other engines.

Due to this reason, and several aftermarket companies have had to recall their aftermarket filters, because they don't meet the spec, I will stay with an OEM filter, or Auto 7.
 
One simple very well educated pair of single words you better memorize. OEM And WARRANTY. You WILL buy Hyundai filters and use them exclusively or you are opening yourself up to the whim of that company. You read the horror stories and you can bet your bonnet they are true so don’t take the chance and give them an out that will cost you $5000 minimum. Note that there is a SB directing OEM filters only. Besides the Hyundai filters are fine and cheap enough. This is one car makeyou want to [censored] well document, save receipts and use OEM filters. I buy mine off Fleabay by the 6 pack for around $6 each.
I’ve watched this little soap opera since buying a Sonata in 13 . Supposedlythe year after the problem was
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fixed. The famous sloppy block cleaning procedures at the new plant in Alabama. Great but then it kept happening to Sonatas in post 12 model year. Oh well, after years of blaming it on owners and a truly bullying campaign to pressure owners to buy the extended warranty NHSTI hit them with a safety recall so the jacked the warranty to 120k / 10 years in the US. Oh well ours is fine......so far. 🤪 but as often happens there’s more.
Problem is with the Sonata and great deals on Elantras whose engines are unaffected and they were making killer deals . Daughter buys a new 15 Elantra which I do the maintenance on exclusively. First oil change at 2k then every 5 ish all with top tier synthetics. Fast forward to last month at 45k miles she’s hearing a quiet ticking. I listen to it and figure it’s nothing or at most a loose valve on the left most cyl. So I change the oil and way it goes. By Christmas she’s saying the tickin, which is continuous not just startup is getting louder. So I pull it in and hit it all over with the stethoscope after reading how Elantras are dying of similar circumstances o Sonatas. Absolutely silent down in the crank bowels where a rod Knox likes to surface.. Nothing, all up top way up on the timing chain and where it goes around the camshafts. It’s right there but I’m not pulling anything on a warranty car to even peek so i bag the filter and label it for the dealers guys. I strained the old oil and came up with a bit of bubbly goo and trace water all of which probably fell in the pan from the dirty base. After all it is winter and sloppy out. Later that day I check paint strainer again , the water is gone the goo is mostly too, no chips or aluminum smear mud either by the feel of it. Nothing to indicate metal failure. The tap stayed though just like a solid valve 5-10 thou loose.
Anyways she drops it off and next day dealer calls right up and says new warranty engine and gives her a nice 17 sport Ute loaner. So I have no problems with them as you Can imagine. I only wish I could have gotten to see what was damaged and in That filter can.
Now everything I can glean from peoples experiences seems to be this. Failure of some coating on the pistons coming off. They admit to that and also say that a new and updated coating was used in 2014 onwards. All I can say well, I guess it didn’t work now did it? So do watch your [censored] with your new one. Cross all your ts and dot those I’s in case it happens to you. Keep those receipts and use those OEM filters just to be safe. Listen to the engine , record the sound for reference. If it starts ticking lightly anywhere make sure the dealer checks it for that all important documentation and date / mileage stamp. AFAIK there is no Elantra recall yet. What that means to you is that your warranty is still 60k and after that you will likely be SOL. Also FYI Canada has way weaker consumer protection laws and Hyundai takes full advantage of it. Good luck to anyone with one of these affected Theta engined DI cars because we have a whole lot of company in our club. Im sure this 5+ year old saga is going to keep expanding
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turnbowm
Take note on the date of that TSB. That’s about the time they were trying to run down the cause of the engine failures. I scored a STP Max Life with the Valvoline promotion at AutoZone. I fully intend to use it on my next oil change. Of course, I have all of my documentation of 5,000 mile OCIs. If it blows, oh well, I’ll get a new engine.
 
So, if you MUST use OEM filters to maintain warranty, isn't the OEM required to provide them free under the Magnuson Moss Act? I doubt that TSB was mailed to every owner via certified return receipt mail.
 
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I didn’t get one from KIA. I did get two recall letters and just filed them in my owners manual. They are pretty much replacing any blown engines that fall within the recall.
 
I picked up 5qt of Penn Platinum 5w/20 at Walmart for $22, and called the local Kia dealership. They have the filter for $6 and the washer for a buck and change. I'll just stick with that to be certain I shouldn't have any warranty issues later on.

I drive a lot right now, 2300-2500 miles per month. So I'm assuming I should still stick to 5k miles which will be every couple months.
 
Originally Posted By: ctmnismo
I picked up 5qt of Penn Platinum 5w/20 at Walmart for $22, and called the local Kia dealership. They have the filter for $6 and the washer for a buck and change. I'll just stick with that to be certain I shouldn't have any warranty issues later on.

I drive a lot right now, 2300-2500 miles per month. So I'm assuming I should still stick to 5k miles which will be every couple months.


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