I've pretty much decided fram ultra are the best readily available filters for all my engines. My volvo penta 4.3gxi is no exception. I've been running an ultra xg30 with Chevron or Rotella 15w-40 hdeo oil. I'm getting ready to do an annual service to the engine. The engine logged 50 hours of moderate use. I've read the ultra are good for 20,000 miles. This one is probably no even broken in and the oil is still a dark amber color. Should I change the oil and reuse the filter or being on a marine application should I change the filter every time?
Fram ultra change interval in marine engine?
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if the filter is good for 20K miles, that's 400 hours at 50 MPH, I think you can go longer unless the engine manual says otherwise.
I guess you could go with an XG5 (longer) if it fits.
Originally Posted By: monster1
Should I change the oil and reuse the filter or being on a marine application should I change the filter every time?
Run it for two years/seasons in normal recreational use.
Originally Posted By: monster1
Should I change the oil and reuse the filter or being on a marine application should I change the filter every time?
Run it for two years/seasons in normal recreational use.
Have you had a UOA done on the oil? 50 hours is pretty short. It's your motor, but I never change short of 100 hours. Usually between 100 and 200 for any engine the runs well.
Carb'd engines running rich is another matter ...
Carb'd engines running rich is another matter ...
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Since marine engines usually run at a much higher RPM than an auto, I'd be careful applying the same criteria. What does the Volvo manual suggest as to hours for an oil & filter change.
We've put so many XG5 filters on these thinhs that I can't even remember.
Unless an engine is being UOA'd, we never carry a filter over. If there is water contamination we don't know about, we'd be inadvertently carrying some over. Possible carry over of fuel dilution is another concern. Life and death concern? Probably not, but I'd personally and professionally rather see on the side of caution.
Most marine engine companies recommend 50 hours for conventional and 100 hours for synthetic.
Unless an engine is being UOA'd, we never carry a filter over. If there is water contamination we don't know about, we'd be inadvertently carrying some over. Possible carry over of fuel dilution is another concern. Life and death concern? Probably not, but I'd personally and professionally rather see on the side of caution.
Most marine engine companies recommend 50 hours for conventional and 100 hours for synthetic.
I think off the top of my head the manual says oil change every 100 hours. I've read from top marine mechanics say every 50 due to fuel delution. I'm right at 50 hours. I figure I spend the majority of run time at 3500 rpm doing about 32mph. So figure I traveled 1500 miles conservatively.
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Originally Posted By: monster1
I figure I spend the majority of run time at 3500 rpm doing about 32mph. So figure I traveled 1500 miles conservatively.
If that was a car going down the highway in high gear it would be more like around 110~115 MPH.
I figure I spend the majority of run time at 3500 rpm doing about 32mph. So figure I traveled 1500 miles conservatively.
If that was a car going down the highway in high gear it would be more like around 110~115 MPH.
I would change it every 6 months if I was you
Originally Posted By: monster1
I think off the top of my head the manual says oil change every 100 hours. I've read from top marine mechanics say every 50 due to fuel delution. I'm right at 50 hours. I figure I spend the majority of run time at 3500 rpm doing about 32mph. So figure I traveled 1500 miles conservatively.
In second gear, going uphill, towing a boat, with flat tires.
FD is one. These engines also shear oil like Edward Scissorhands. They make a lot of metal too. Expect 50-80ppm iron for that 50 hour run.
FD is mostly a concern for trollers and people with a lot of no wake zones. Imagine starting your car and leaving it idling for hours.
100 hours is fine with a stout synthetic lube. If you have no oil cooler, your oil is getting hotter than stolen car with the heat stuck on in Arizona in July. If VP ever built a 4.3 with an oil cooler, I've not seen it.
FD can be funny though. When my old 454 had the garbage Weber carb that ran so fat under any adjustment that it turned my plugs black, and I had to cross an hour of manatee zones to hit the ocean, and only breathers with no PCV, I never turned up even a full percent of FD. Weird.
Using RT6 to 108 hours on that engine, I beat the iron universal average for 48 hours use, and still had about 7 TBN.
We've done even better using high HTHS 20w50 and SAE60 synthetics on these GM based engines.
I think off the top of my head the manual says oil change every 100 hours. I've read from top marine mechanics say every 50 due to fuel delution. I'm right at 50 hours. I figure I spend the majority of run time at 3500 rpm doing about 32mph. So figure I traveled 1500 miles conservatively.
In second gear, going uphill, towing a boat, with flat tires.
FD is one. These engines also shear oil like Edward Scissorhands. They make a lot of metal too. Expect 50-80ppm iron for that 50 hour run.
FD is mostly a concern for trollers and people with a lot of no wake zones. Imagine starting your car and leaving it idling for hours.
100 hours is fine with a stout synthetic lube. If you have no oil cooler, your oil is getting hotter than stolen car with the heat stuck on in Arizona in July. If VP ever built a 4.3 with an oil cooler, I've not seen it.
FD can be funny though. When my old 454 had the garbage Weber carb that ran so fat under any adjustment that it turned my plugs black, and I had to cross an hour of manatee zones to hit the ocean, and only breathers with no PCV, I never turned up even a full percent of FD. Weird.
Using RT6 to 108 hours on that engine, I beat the iron universal average for 48 hours use, and still had about 7 TBN.
We've done even better using high HTHS 20w50 and SAE60 synthetics on these GM based engines.
RT6 = Rotella T6
TBN = Total Base Number. The higher the number, an indicator that the oil's additive package is still valid. 7+ is a very high number to have remaining at the end of an OCI. Typically, you'd find 4 or less. Below 2 is where it gets touchy. Ideally, this should be compared with the TAN (Total Acid Number), but with 7+ TBN, it is extraordinarily unlikely to be an issue.
HTHS = High Temperature / High Shear. The HTHS number basically tells you the oil's viscosity under very high temperature and load (like you'd find in the main and rod bearings). A higher HTHS viscosity is good for these marine engines, because getting the oil hot as a beast under high loads is what these engines do when not equipped with an oil cooler, and in some cases, even with.
RT6 did a lot better than VPs recommended fill by a wide margin, so I'd say you'll be fine with it.
VP later updated their spec in a TSB where they now recommend 40 weight diesel oil, so you're barking up the right tree with RT6.
TBN = Total Base Number. The higher the number, an indicator that the oil's additive package is still valid. 7+ is a very high number to have remaining at the end of an OCI. Typically, you'd find 4 or less. Below 2 is where it gets touchy. Ideally, this should be compared with the TAN (Total Acid Number), but with 7+ TBN, it is extraordinarily unlikely to be an issue.
HTHS = High Temperature / High Shear. The HTHS number basically tells you the oil's viscosity under very high temperature and load (like you'd find in the main and rod bearings). A higher HTHS viscosity is good for these marine engines, because getting the oil hot as a beast under high loads is what these engines do when not equipped with an oil cooler, and in some cases, even with.
RT6 did a lot better than VPs recommended fill by a wide margin, so I'd say you'll be fine with it.
VP later updated their spec in a TSB where they now recommend 40 weight diesel oil, so you're barking up the right tree with RT6.
Unless something has changed that I am not aware of, T6 5W40 is synthetic.
Well dang, now I feel dumb. Yes. You are correct. The T6 is fully synthetic. What I've been running and referring to as T6 is actually T4 dino 15w-40. I'll be switching to the synthetic. I'm probably well protected with the T4 as everyone and their brother is running it. But the T6 is still dirt cheap and will give me more peace of mind.
I would predict no issue with either oil, but I give a slight nod to the T6 for the hest your oil will see.
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