How to analyze/scan OBD Live Data?

[maverickfhs]

So I don't have a OBD tool, but planning to rent one from an autoparts store.

Was wondering if I'll be able to analyze/scan live data for temp sensors? Since car is throwing CEL code P0128 and want to make sure it's not a sensor and indeed it's T-stat. Before I order parts.

Does anyone has any input for finding a loaner which can do it?

Thank you.

 

[Audios]

Youll probably get some actual values, but your temp gauge should tell you the whole story, if its not reaching operating temp within a reasonable amount of time, its the thermostat.

 

[Ethan1]

Yeah, call the parts store and ask if their scan tool can do it.

 

[knerml]

I don't know about rental scanners.

But, if you have an Android or iPhone smart phone or tablet, you can just order a WiFi or Bluetooth scan tool for just over $20 on Amazon. Then download the free Torque Lite app, and you'll be all set.

App displays real time sensor data.

 

[Kira]

Here's another example where year, make, model, trim level, mileage and possibly even modifications would be helpful.
Really, there should be a checklist at the top of the posting form.
Even someone including, "It's the car in my signature", is helpful.

Be aware of the fact that the expected lifespans of the stat and coolant temperature sensors are fairly close.
That's not an argument for being wasteful.
It is efficient to open a system only once, spill coolant on the ground only once, burp and top-off only once.

Last time I checked it was chilly out.

 

[maverickfhs]

I am sorry, should have been clear.

It's a 2006 Honda Civic Coupe Ex with AT and 198K and I believe T-stat is still original.

Last weekend on the highway cruising at 65-70mph I noticed temp gauge was showing just 2-3 dots on temp gauge, but it was brutally cold too.

 

[stevejones]

At 198K with a believed to be original t-stat; I'd skip the proper diagnostics, load the parts cannon with a new part & pull the trigger. Logic being it's a cheap part, presumably easy to replace, and should've been done already for peace of mind.

 

[dlundblad]

Not sure what your code means, but this is just a shot in the dark.

A failed temp sensor should say something like "ECM temp sensor open circuit." IMO, you don't need live data for this although seeing the actual temperature would be interesting at least to me.

If you have a volt meter, you could check your engine temp sensor's volts. You should also check the ohms during a cold and hot engine. If you don't have a volt meter, HF usually has their basic models for free with a coupon and small purchase.

 

[Leo99]

Originally Posted By: knerml
I don't know about rental scanners.

But, if you have an Android or iPhone smart phone or tablet, you can just order a WiFi or Bluetooth scan tool for just over $20 on Amazon. Then download the free Torque Lite app, and you'll be all set.

App displays real time sensor data.


Every car guy/gal should have this.

 

[maverickfhs]

Thanks very much for your helpful input. Yes, I do have a voltmeter and any idea how much voltage should I be expecting at each sensor?

I definitely like your idea about ECM code and clearly this code seems to be related to T-stat

 

[SZR48207]

Originally Posted By: Leo99
Originally Posted By: knerml
I don't know about rental scanners.

But, if you have an Android or iPhone smart phone or tablet, you can just order a WiFi or Bluetooth scan tool for just over $20 on Amazon. Then download the free Torque Lite app, and you'll be all set.

App displays real time sensor data.


Every car guy/gal should have this.


They can be bought for less than $20 too. I think the last one I bought was the VeePeak brand and it was a whopping $12 delivered.

 

[SatinSilver]

Originally Posted By: maverickfhs
Last weekend on the highway cruising at 65-70mph I noticed temp gauge was showing just 2-3 dots on temp gauge, but it was brutally cold too.


Leave the heat off for the first 15 minutes of the drive and see if the temp comes up any faster. If the heat is blasting away it can keep the temp indicator buried pretty low. If you can't handle that just put the heater on the first setting or low. Obviously if it's snowing, frosted windshield, etc where having the heat/defrost is a safety issue then have it on the high setting. Please report back, thank you.

 

[SHOZ]

Bad ECT should default to the fan on when the key is in run, cold engine and no ac on.

P0128 Thermostat OBD-II Trouble Code Re...t OBD-Codes.com

P0128 Thermostat OBD-II Trouble Code Technical Description Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature) What does that mean? This diagnostic trouble code (DTC) is a generic powertrain code, which means that it applies to OBD-II equipped vehicles. Brands of vehicles that may see this code include but are not limited to Pontiac, Toyota, Mazda, Dodge, Chevrolet, Honda, Jeep, Ford, VW, etc. Although generic, the specific repair steps may vary depending on make/model. This means that the engine's powertrain control module (PCM) has detected that the engine has not reached the required temperature level within a specified amount of time after starting the engine. Often, the intent of the P0128 code is to indicate a faulty thermostat (likely stuck in the open condition)

Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0128
Copyright OBD-Codes.com

 

[maverickfhs]

Thanks very much SHOZ. For now, I am going to throw an OEM t-stat and then take it from there