Castrol cocktail - Your thoughts on this mix???

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I recently purchased lots of Castrol Edge High Mileage 10w-40 at the recent Autozone clearance. ($2/quart)
I also have in stash some Castrol Magnatec 5w-20 from another store's "rollback".

For my 2007 Volvo V70, the owner's manual calls for 5w-40 when temps exceed 86 degrees F, so the 10w-40 Edge should be good for my Texas Summers.

For my Texas "Winters" I'm going to run 3.5 quarts of the 10w-40 Edge mixed with 2.5 quarts of the 5w-20 Magnatec. In my estimation this should give me about 12cSt at 100 degrees Celsius, or essentially an "8w-30" oil. I'll go with a 7500 mile maximum OCI.

Thoughts or concerns on this Castrol cocktail?
 
I like it!!!
wink.gif
 
You have my car! Turbo or non? Mine's a base model.
I use Mobil1 0W-40 all year round but I like the sound of your mix (a completely unknowing therefore irresponsible thing to say)
 
Every time I put MORE than 1/2 qt 20grade into a 30 the oil becomes too thin and engine tries to commit suicide.
I would NOT recommend you do this blend.

But sure try it. Listen for the knock knock knock.

There is no such thing as 8W; its Either 5w or 10w.
W is not a "weight" ( actual term is: GRADE ) its a margined category.
You are either IN or OUT
I find the adition of lighter grade oils to act non linearly. They go thin FAST - -well at least the HTHS does buy the way the mechanical engine knock (ie:RAP) is pronounced so quickly.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Every time I put MORE than 1/2 qt 20grade into a 30 the oil becomes too thin and engine tries to commit suicide.

There is no such thing as 8W; its Either 5w or 10w.
W is not a "weight" ( actual term is: GRADE ) its a margined category.
You are either IN or OUT
I find the adition of lighter grade oils to act non linearly. They go thin FAST - -well at least the HTHS does buy the way the mechanical engine knock (ie:RAP) is pronounced so quickly.


ARCOgraphite,
I'm not wanting to mix 20w with 30w for this application. I'm considering mixing 20w with 40w to make a 30w.
Yes, I know there is no such a thing as a 8w-30 grade, that's why I put this fictitious grade in quotes. Technically, it would probably be a heavier 5w-30. And, yes, W does not stand for Weight - it stands for Winter.
I'm curious to know what you mean by "lighter grade oils to act non-linearly"?
Thanks very much for your input.
 
Originally Posted By: Kira
You have my car! Turbo or non? Mine's a base model.
I use Mobil1 0W-40 all year round but I like the sound of your mix (a completely unknowing therefore irresponsible thing to say)


Hey Kira,

I have the naturally aspirated 2.4L 5 cylinder in my V70. I've only owned the car for 6 months, but I like it so far. =)

Are you in New York? I'm not totally sure where Champlain/Hudson Valley is. If so, do you ever feel like that 0w-40 M1 is too thick at operating temp during your coldest months? I ask because I know the owner's manual calls for 5w-30 if temps are under 86 degrees F.

Thanks!
 
Oh come on, you can blend whatever the "F" you want. Make it 8w30, 7w30 or 9w30 if you want. Just because oil manufacturers all agreed to a standard 5w, 10, etc, doesn't mean you can't blend a 2w18 at home if you want. What a stupid thing to say in regards to blending viscosities.
33.gif
 
To answer your original question... I'm not sure how those "magnetic" oil properties in the Magnatec Castrol will blend with the plain ol' Castrol high mileage synth to work together. "Technically" if both SN, they should work fine, like the label on both bottles suggest (you can mix safely) but who really knows???

If it's an old Beater Volvo, I'd do it but because, who gives a hoot if she blows?
lol.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Artem
Oh come on, you can blend whatever the "F" you want. Make it 8w30, 7w30 or 9w30 if you want. Just because oil manufacturers all agreed to a standard 5w, 10, etc, doesn't mean you can't blend a 2w18 at home if you want. What a stupid thing to say in regards to blending viscosities.
33.gif


This question brings out a lot of stupid responses, apparently.
 
I did a blend recently. A little over half a qt. of MMO, over half qt. of Valvoline SynPower 20w50 and two qts. of Napa 5w30 conventional. I had this stuff sitting around so good to have it used. Not used in any of my car's but on an 05 Camry with 183k miles. It had 12k miles on it's current oci of generic bulk oil from a tire store. The SynPower had a nice, light color to it but was thick as molasses since it was being poured in at 9 degrees. Poured it in using a small funnel and took what seemed like forever for it to drain down.
smile.gif
 
To C-P-H-M1 (the OP),
I'm 12 miles west of NYC at the moment.
The location in my signature reflects that I go up both sides of the Hudson (to Albany) then continue north to Ticonderoga, NY and Burlington, VT often.

It's a long, broad corridor but accurately represents how far I'd go for a set of tires....or cheap oil.

I put my '07 "back on the road" about 8 months ago. It now has 80,600 miles on it.
The operational feature of M1 0W-40 I read here is that its "40" more closely resembles a "30". In contrast, Castrol's 0W-30 European Formula is markedly thicker; closer to a "40" at temperature.

The car seems to like it. My highway mileage is 27-28.

I'm coming up on an oil change. I plan on using Mobil1 0W-40 again and using nothing but the same if any top-offs are required. Then, at 7,000 miles ( 500 miles BEFORE the same factory recommended OCI you're using) I'm going to have an oil analysis done.

The original owner didn't put 70K on it in 10 years. I bet the car did a lot of idling so I wanted to use an oil known for cleaning. Again, hearsay on BITOG is Gospel....or something like it.
 
I am going to take the same Castrol Edge High Mileage 10w-40 at the recent Autozone clearance. ($2/quart) and mix it 50/50 with the cheapest Harvest King 0w-20 or 5W-20 and run it in my F150. ($12 for a 5 quart jug)
 
Originally Posted By: Linctex
I am going to take the same Castrol Edge High Mileage 10w-40 at the recent Autozone clearance. ($2/quart) and mix it 50/50 with the cheapest Harvest King 0w-20 or 5W-20 and run it in my F150. ($12 for a 5 quart jug)



AMEN! I got 10w40 EDGE hm and GTX ULTRA CLEAN 5w20 mixed 50/50%. Going in next OCI
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: Artem
Oh come on, you can blend whatever the "F" you want. Make it 8w30, 7w30 or 9w30 if you want. Just because oil manufacturers all agreed to a standard 5w, 10, etc, doesn't mean you can't blend a 2w18 at home if you want. What a stupid thing to say in regards to blending viscosities.
33.gif


This question brings out a lot of stupid responses, apparently.

ARTEM, You are demonstrating a fundamental understanding of Winter multigrade ratings.

Thank for you wonderful addition, Katch-Can sludge.

Such a pleasure having you on this forum violating forum Ethics rules constantly.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: CastroPenzoHavoMobil1
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Every time I put MORE than 1/2 qt 20grade into a 30 the oil becomes too thin and engine tries to commit suicide.

There is no such thing as 8W; its Either 5w or 10w.
W is not a "weight" ( actual term is: GRADE ) its a margined category.
You are either IN or OUT
I find the adition of lighter grade oils to act non linearly. They go thin FAST - -well at least the HTHS does buy the way the mechanical engine knock (ie:RAP) is pronounced so quickly.


ARCOgraphite,
I'm not wanting to mix 20w with 30w for this application. I'm considering mixing 20w with 40w to make a 30w.
Yes, I know there is no such a thing as a 8w-30 grade, that's why I put this fictitious grade in quotes. Technically, it would probably be a heavier 5w-30. And, yes, W does not stand for Weight - it stands for Winter.
I'm curious to know what you mean by "lighter grade oils to act non-linearly"?
Thanks very much for your input.
IN my 30 grade rated engine wher sometimes I add some 20 topoff for winter or if the VVT is ioperating out of range, many time 1/2 a qt thins the oil too much and I get a hard engine rap or knock. On paper iit would not be out of a 30 grade margin, but the engine says differently.

Maybe all of my cars over the years have poor bearing clearance tolerance; I doubt it.

Just use care. Sometimes the knock will not go away when you go back to the more viscous grade. Happened to me. This is more an issue with the "designed to shear" low HTHS ILSAC grades than more robust monogrades or ACEA A3.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
ARTEM, You are demonstrating a fundamental understanding of Winter multigrade ratings.

Thank for you wonderful addition, Katch-Can sludge.

Such a pleasure having you on this forum violating forum Ethics rules constantly.

Please inform us what temperature the 2W, 7W, 8W and 9W tests are run at and what maximum viscosity is allowed at that temperature.

And if I'm violating ethics rules on this board I would suggest you report me to the moderators at once.
 
OP here...

I asked Castrol this question, and here is their response...


Quote:
Thank you for contacting Castrol North America.

All of our oils are fully compatible with each other, so you can use the same grade of a different formulation for ‘topping off’ purposes without fear.

Different viscosity grades of motor oil will mix together and work in your engine. However, mixing of viscosity grades will lead to a mixed product that has not been tested and may not perform as expected.

As an example, a 5W-20 is lower viscosity and typically performs well at lower temperatures. A 10W-40 is higher viscosity and typically performs well at higher temperatures. Mixing a 5W-20 and a 10W-40 will not make a product that performs well at both low and high temperatures. You will instead make a product that falls somewhere in between.

Depending on what is mixed, you may actually make a product that does worse than either individual product.

Castrol motor oils are specifically designed and tested to meet all industry requirements of their grade.

Castrol always recommends following the guidelines of the engine manufacturer for the recommended oil (i.e. SAE grade, API rating and manufacturer specifications) specific to your application. This information can always be found in the vehicles owner’s manual or by contacting the manufacturer directly.

Thank you again for contacting Castrol, we value your patronage.

Castrol Consumer Relations
 
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