OIl Burner making clattery sound

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Hi Guys. Had my burner go out on my wet-base boiler when it was zero F last week.
Woke up to 45 degF house last Friday. The burner fan/pump motor overcurrent reset had popped. I reset but it screeched to a halt in about 10 seconds.

Called Burner repair, They came in the afternoon. They didn't diagnose much, just replaced the burner motor (runs fan and pump) and pump coupling. I thought the Pump was seized due to poor oil intake. They said it was fine.

Now the unit makes a fast clattery sound when the burner is on and a distinct clop, clop, clop when slowing after power off at end of burn cycle.

I was going to dig into this the weekend.

I have some Ideas. Anybody do burner service here?

I have been doing my own "tune ups" for decades. But IIRC ive only had the motor and pump off once.

This is an old Carlin 99FRD burner running 0.85 GPH. I hear most folks have Beckett.

Thanks.
 
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I know I got real worried on my burner when it was making a racket. Turned out it was the power flue. Tech put in a shim and all has been fine since.

Do you have a blower of some sort on it? like needed for a horizontal vent?
 
I think the squirrel cage wheel got out of round when the motor was replaced. I would call service company back and tell them your problem. It could be that the wheel is rubbing against interior burner housing but sometimes when replacing the motor the wheel doesn't come out so easy and he may have bend it when installing motor, then you would need a new one. Of course you would have to get the correct wheel for your burner.

If you are so inclined to tackle it yourself, you have to pull the motor and wheel is held on with a hexagonal screw. You need a long allen key to reach the screw such as pictured below.



 
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Thanks George and jeep,

Makes sense. I didn't want to go and replace the pump if it was the fine.
Can I pull out the fan from the motor side without undoing coupling? I recall the pump drive is a slip fit and the shaft is D shaped? I repslced the bushing a decade ago when the motor chewed the coupling when the pump dry due to sludge in the gravity feed line.

Are all couplings supposed to be "flexible"

I raised the issue multiple times about the noise and they said to "ignore it".
 
When you take off the motor the blower wheel will be attached to the motor. Coming out of the motor shaft will be the coupling. It should slide right off. You can't replace the blower wheel without taking off the coupling but it is no big deal.



 
Thanks!

Loosed the two motor mounting bolts a 1/2 turn and moved the motor laterelly a tad (its a replacement unit not super exact) and the noise went down 90%. T

The pump shaft must not have been co-axial to the motor shaft. But there was no vibration felt. If I loosed ONE bolt the unit woud vibrate when it went out of parallel

I wish these pumps used dual metal U joints.

I donnt trust the "service tech spent much time cutting making up the new drive shaft. I would cut them VERY carefully with a hacksaw in a miter box to make sure ends are square and clean.

I might buy a factory Carlin 99FRD burner 2 -3/8" coupling for 3 buck from Patriot Supply.

Now I bet my motor was OK. they double overcharged me for the carlin motor at $175 parts.

At least I got heat
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