Oil for Cold starting diesels

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Dec 31, 2017
Messages
15,083
Location
SE British Columbia, Canada
Looking for opinions on dealing with cold starting diesels in Canada and the northern States ( and some of the recently affected southern states) My neighbour has a 2004 Ford F-350 with a 6 liter diesel. It’s a bit stumbly when he starts it in cold weather. Cold up here means 0 F to 32 F. He has his favourite quick change place that is currently selling him Rotella T 10W-30 conventional (photo attached). He has no room to garage the truck. During the winter he plugs in the block heater which is on a timer and keeps it plugged in for 10 hours per day. The cost of the power is about $ 1.50 per day.

I suggested he change to Rotella T-6 5-40 and bought a liter of 5-40 and the Rotella T. Actually I couldn’t find a 1 liter of Rotella T-6 so I substituted a bottle of Mobil 5-40 diesel truck oil. It’s easy to see the 5-40 pours better but the difference was not as dramatic as those -40 pour tests you see on You Tube.

My neighbour is a bit old school and wasn’t keen on paying the price on the synthetic. However I explained he might be able to unplug on warmer days and get the same type of start. One question is regarding Rotella T-5 10-30, the semi-synthetic. (Photo attached). It’s priced cheaper that T-6 but was wondering how much difference he might expect when trying to cold start with the T-5. Does anyone use T-5?

Finally, I hear rumours the Rotella T is going to be rebranded as T-4. Anyone hear anything about that?

Can we please keep the discussion to Rotella products. I don’t think I would be able to get him to change brand. Thanks. Fire away!

SF


 
Last edited:
add a qt of MMO to crankcase for winter time. Dunno truck's oil capacity. MMO says it is safe for up to 20% of capacity.
 
First of all, I wouldn't wanna help anyone engine wise that owns an old Ford with that engine. You know how people are, you can be blamed if anything goes wrong and that particular diesel truck isn't the pinnacle of reliability.

Advance Auto has Shell Rotella T6 0W40 in stock at stores where I live. Is it available up there?
 
I almost exclusively use Rotella T6 5W40 in my older Cummins diesel engine when I had that pickup and now my Ford Powerstroke. Synthetic oil always flows better in cold weather.

Get the newer containers of T6 that say they meet the Ford diesel oil spec.

You can go longer using synthetic oil for an OCI.

I hope he bullet-proofed the engine before it encounters big problems.
 
Originally Posted By: skyactiv
First of all, I wouldn't wanna help anyone engine wise that owns an old Ford with that engine. You know how people are, you can be blamed if anything goes wrong and that particular diesel truck isn't the pinnacle of reliability.

Advance Auto has Shell Rotella T6 0W40 in stock at stores where I live. Is it available up there?



Yes, we have it at Canadian Tire. Thanks.

SF
 
The cold-flow properties between 5w-40 & 10w-30 are nearly identical, so switching between the two wont make a difference.
Having previously owned two 6.0's (and starting at -40F) your neighbors problem could be several things.
One being the FICM, which can be damaged by low voltage, another being the HPOP fitting. It begins to leak slightly but more noticeable on warm starts. The injectors are fired by the High Pressure Oil Pump and a leaky fitting won't supply ample oil pressure to fire the injectors, again much more noticeable on warm starts.

Start with the FICM, ensure batteries are in excellent shape, switching oil isn't going to make a difference.
 
Originally Posted By: roadrunner1
The cold-flow properties between 5w-40 & 10w-30 are nearly identical, so switching between the two wont make a difference.
Having previously owned two 6.0's (and starting at -40F) your neighbors problem could be several things.
One being the FICM, which can be damaged by low voltage, another being the HPOP fitting. It begins to leak slightly but more noticeable on warm starts. The injectors are fired by the High Pressure Oil Pump and a leaky fitting won't supply ample oil pressure to fire the injectors, again much more noticeable on warm starts.

Start with the FICM, ensure batteries are in excellent shape, switching oil isn't going to make a difference.


Thanks. Advice taken. However, on the cold pour properties it’s 10-30 conventional vs 5-40 synthetic. I have a video at 5 degrees F comparing the two. It’s not a stunning difference but is significant. My vid is too large to load here.

SF
 
Originally Posted By: skyactiv
First of all, I wouldn't wanna help anyone engine wise that owns an old Ford with that engine. You know how people are, you can be blamed if anything goes wrong and that particular diesel truck isn't the pinnacle of reliability.

Advance Auto has Shell Rotella T6 0W40 in stock at stores where I live. Is it available up there?



+1, your buddy wants to be cheap and not buy synthetic oil and he won't change brands. Sounds like you care more about his truck than he does. I would leave him alone, he's obviously not losing any sleep over his choices.
 
If the stumbly start clears itself up within 10 to 20 seconds it isn't the oil..it's a glow plug/plugs or just because it's cold. Now if it is cranking slow and that's causing it to struggle to fire at all...oil wil help.

Kudos for caring about his truck tho!
 
Originally Posted By: Snagglefoot
Originally Posted By: roadrunner1
The cold-flow properties between 5w-40 & 10w-30 are nearly identical, so switching between the two wont make a difference.
Having previously owned two 6.0's (and starting at -40F) your neighbors problem could be several things.
One being the FICM, which can be damaged by low voltage, another being the HPOP fitting. It begins to leak slightly but more noticeable on warm starts. The injectors are fired by the High Pressure Oil Pump and a leaky fitting won't supply ample oil pressure to fire the injectors, again much more noticeable on warm starts.

Start with the FICM, ensure batteries are in excellent shape, switching oil isn't going to make a difference.


Thanks. Advice taken. However, on the cold pour properties it’s 10-30 conventional vs 5-40 synthetic. I have a video at 5 degrees F comparing the two. It’s not a stunning difference but is significant. My vid is too large to load here.

SF


It doesn't matter if you're comparing synthetic to dino, the oil has to meet the sane spec.
The "W" doesn't directly correlate between different viscosities, in other words a 5w-30 and a 5w-40 have different cold cranking specs to meet, which is why a 5w-40 and a 10w-30 are nearly identical, synthetic or not.

There are now 5w-30 HDEO lubes available, along with 0w-40, and 0w-30. Your location isn't cold enough to require these, but they are available. If finances allow have the FICM tested, there are tests that can be performed at home to test these with a google search. When solder joints become stressed within the FICM (due to low battery voltage) is when cold-start issues are the most noticeable.
I am pulling from memory but they step up voltage to 48 volts for the injectors, so a weak joint on the 12 volt side only magnifies itself to 48 volts.

Keep us updated on the truck.
 
I’d let him deal with it on his own. It’s a 6.0L after all, yuck.

I doubt oil has anything to do with the rough starts. Probably a bad injector or glow plug.
 
Originally Posted By: JC1
Originally Posted By: skyactiv
First of all, I wouldn't wanna help anyone engine wise that owns an old Ford with that engine. You know how people are, you can be blamed if anything goes wrong and that particular diesel truck isn't the pinnacle of reliability.

Advance Auto has Shell Rotella T6 0W40 in stock at stores where I live. Is it available up there?



+1, your buddy wants to be cheap and not buy synthetic oil and he won't change brands. Sounds like you care more about his truck than he does. I would leave him alone, he's obviously not losing any sleep over his choices.


Ha Ha. Thanks for advice. Kind of like helping an old lady across the street!

SF
 
Originally Posted By: roadrunner1
It doesn't matter if you're comparing synthetic to dino, the oil has to meet the sane spec.
The "W" doesn't directly correlate between different viscosities, in other words a 5w-30 and a 5w-40 have different cold cranking specs to meet, which is why a 5w-40 and a 10w-30 are nearly identical, synthetic or not.


No, that's incorrect.

to be labelled a "5W", whether it's 30,40,50, or 60 that comes after it the oil has to meet EXACTLY the same CCS and MRV limits.
 
Its because its a HEUI motor! If you could possibly explain that to him, but I have yet to see anyone reply with any info on hydraulic injectors. They have oil, and fuel in them, the oil is cold, and thick. Pressure to much resistance to push fuel out with really cold thick oil in the injector.

hydraulically activated, electronically controlled, unit injector (HEUI) fuel system

5w40 synthetic will help! a lot!


Newer diesels have common rail fuel injectors, like gasoline autos and they don't have the romps as we call it. They start easily. I don't start my ford from late November to early march. It has 15w40 in it.
 
If you friends truck idles rough for a minute or 2-3, thats how low it would take for the oil to warm up and/ or/ could also be a sign of the injection pressure regulator. Its just a small brass pin type valve with very small oil holes that are feed from the high pressure oil pump. they can be "very" sensitive in cold weather if they are a little bit fouled or with dirty old oil. But it really sounds more like its just cold oil in the injectors to me.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top