Inability to get oil to operating temp

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Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: KL31
Originally Posted By: FZ1
Use the oil grade stamped on the oil fill cap as a starting point. The oil is too thick for your app at 10 degrees.


Pretty sure the RS specs 5W-50 motorcraft oil as it's fill. 5W can pump at -30 celsius though. 10F is what, like minus 10-15 Celsius? Not cold enough to stop it pumping. And that's assuming the oil temp is same as outdoor temp, which it wouldn't be unless he parks an RS on the street/snow overnight....
crazy.gif


EDIT: and for everyone saying it's too thick. Ford are assuming this car will be tracked and from people I know who've test driven them, they are indeed a track car. For daily commutes, the ST is probably a much better option, unless you can somehow resist the urge to put that pedal down. 5W50 does shear down more from the UOA's I've seen, but I wouldn't go throwing a resource conserving 30 grade in one of these engines. I'd stick to the factory fill or a very stout 40 grade.


The RS is just a tad faster than the SHO, which is a family sized sedan. The SHO spec's a 5w30. Like I said, I would check to see whether or not the manual allows for a thinner oil. Realistically, 5w50 isn't required for Cars 'n Coffee meets, DD etc.

Doesn't it seem strange OP questions this with 0*F weather?


The SHO is 104HP/L, the RS is 152HP/L, that's a rather massive difference and certainly justification for a heavier lubricant.


I guess my point was that they are both DI twin turbo. The RS is certainly more dense you put.

If the environment calls for a 5w50, go for it, but for DD purposes I am failing to see the point and don't get why Ford didn't give a 5w30 option.

Once again, the fact that this was brought up in unusually cold temps has to mean something.
 
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Most likely , the HEAT EXCHANGER is doing its job . Coolant & Lube are parallel controlled , on most Ford DI , TRBO applications just use what FORD rec .Happy New Year to All
 
On the older SHOs the oil filter mounted heat exchanger used coolant from the block, I don't know if the Focus uses the same setup.

I took a SHO heat exchanger and mounted it to my Hyundai Genesis Coupe 2L motor. I used the same source of coolant that Hyundai uses and that was the coolant coming from the head to the heater core to the turbo and then to the exchanger to the water pump, or probably the hottest coolant in the engine.

It worked great and I roached "normal" oil temps about twice as fast without it.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: Atomic
Hello,

Last time I stopped by was to get input on what oil I should run in my new Focus RS. I have been on Mobil 1 5w-50 and a Fram Ultra and just completed second oil change at 10.5k (7.5k run).

With the arrival of winter, I am noticing the oil is never exceeding ~170 degrees, even with my 60 mile round trip to work and back, and with my lack of will power to keep from hammering down on it. On a recent 450 Mile road trip, I drove between 80-100 for hours at 3.5k RPM with the oil temp never reaching even 190 degrees.

All said, is this going to have a negative impact on the oil, necessitating a change earlier than the 7.5k I will run normally?

Thanks!


How can you drive 80-100 MPH in Ohio and not get tickets. Every time I drive through Ohio I see more cops per mile than any other state I have been in.


You can easily drive in the young to mid eighties without too much worry as long as you pay attention to things like brake lights far ahead and so on.
Traffic is more an impediment to speed than the state cops on Ohio interstates.
Enforcement focus also varies over time. There were years when you rarely saw a state cop running speed enforcement on an interstate but they're currently pretty dense on the ground.
Now, all 85 mph will buy you is a citation that you can pay out by mail. Add 15 mph to that and you're probably looking at a ride to county in bracelets while watching your car leave on a flatbed bound for whatever local outfit has the local impound cash cow.
 
Lets all hope this guy got one with a good head gasket!!!

I'm wondering if obstructed coolant passages could be affecting his oil temps???
 
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Originally Posted By: dlundblad

If the environment calls for a 5w50, go for it, but for DD purposes I am failing to see the point and don't get why Ford didn't give a 5w30 option.

Once again, the fact that this was brought up in unusually cold temps has to mean something.


Possibly the same reason they spec'd the 5w-50 exclusively for the Mustang GT "Track Pack" as well as the Shelby cars. There may be insufficient nannies in place with the heavier oil spec to be adequate with a thinner lube. They may have a much more liberal thermal castration mechanism or none at all with the heavier lube spec. Ergo, while you are right in practice, that using something thinner for the winter months may be safe, Ford cannot provide that leeway lest somebody manage to blow something up in a variation of that process (get a warm day, WOT blast overtake for example).
 
Try this, don't turn the heat on in the car for the first 10 mins after starting it. Don't let it warm up too long then start driving it. Again with no heat. Just bundle up a bit. Even if the temp is 0 but only if it's not snowing or there was no ice to scrape off the glass. If there's no precip give it a try and notice how much faster the engine came to temperature. Most people don't know this since they haven't tried it. I have. It's not comfortable but it works. Plus the battery will get a nice charge as well if you leave the radio off as well.
 
A year ago I was running 0w30 in the Gen Coupe and the oil temp was a bit higher than what I get with 0w40 now.

Maybe an oil pan heater of some sort?
 
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
Try this, don't turn the heat on in the car for the first 10 mins after starting it. Don't let it warm up too long then start driving it. Again with no heat. Just bundle up a bit. Even if the temp is 0 but only if it's not snowing or there was no ice to scrape off the glass. If there's no precip give it a try and notice how much faster the engine came to temperature. Most people don't know this since they haven't tried it. I have. It's not comfortable but it works. Plus the battery will get a nice charge as well if you leave the radio off as well.


I’ll do this after you do it and you post your findings
smile.gif


Cheers!
 
Originally Posted By: car51
I’ll do this after you do it and you post your findings
smile.gif


Cheers!


I did a few days ago when it was 6 out and the first trip was about 20 mins. Heat was off the entire time but engine temp via the temp gage on dash came up to the normal spot after 10 mins. Where if I had the heat on high blasting it would still be at the minimum spot after 20 mins of city driving. I was doing this more to give the battery a good charge then noticed the above as a side benefit. Sure enough it doesn't struggle as much when starting in the single digits. Plus it toughens you up which is good when fighting in the ring.
 
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
I did a few days ago when it was 6 out and the first trip was about 20 mins. Heat was off the entire time but engine temp via the temp gage on dash came up to the normal spot after 10 mins. Where if I had the heat on high blasting it would still be at the minimum spot after 20 mins of city driving. I was doing this more to give the battery a good charge then noticed the above as a side benefit. Sure enough it doesn't struggle as much when starting in the single digits. Plus it toughens you up which is good when fighting in the ring.


Believe it or not, I experience a similar thing here in CA when the starting temperature is below 50f.
 
The OP's concern is the effect on oil longevity due to winter driving and lack of temperature.

I suggest that at a certain mileage, after winter is over, he get a uoa.
 
Originally Posted By: MParr
USA specs vs. UK , AU specs same engine different specs. Go figure. That sort of thing is common.


Yup, just checked the manual for the UK version and the spec is different, LOL!

Not surprising though really, given the variance we see on other marques.
 
EXACTLY!
I think the original poster would be perfectly safe with the 0W40 A3/B4 oil. That would solve some of his issues. Now if he wants to race the thing, he can go to the Motorcraft 5W50 and add a Ford Racing oil filter. In fact, Motorcraft lists the 5W50 oil as required by the Ford GT and GT 500. There has been a lot of back and forth on many of the Focus RS forum boards. I say, toss a coin.
 
I have a similar problem with my motorcycle where the oil sump temperature doesn't get above 60 Deg C on short winter commutes. I use 5W 40 instead of the usual 20W50 and change it at 1000 miles.

The other issue though is getting rid of the water content that manifests itself as mayonnaise in and around the oil filler hole. I resolve that by simply letting it breath at the end of the day leaving the combined filler plug\dipstick off overnight. Providing I do this regularly, by morning the mayonnaise has gone. Remembering to screw the dipstick back in again is occasionally a problem.

The fact that oil will be hotter in some parts of the engine has been mentioned. That's the reason I only drop one grade and use an oil with a min 3.5 HTHS.
 
Originally Posted By: SandCastle
Why not compromise and use 0W-40 year round?

Yes M1 or Castrol Edge 0W40 with Euro A3/B4, Porsche A40 and over 1000 ppm of zinc.
 
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