VR1 20w50 vs Maxlife 20w50, dry sump

[SuzukiGoat]

The VR1 has been returning excellent wear numbers, especially with the high rpm usage I see. But it also is not readily available for $2 a quart.

Has anyone had any experience running them in a non wet clutch system?

 

[Kawiguy454]

I use the M1 15-50 in my YXZ-SS and the clutch immediately smoothed out from OEM fill. I consider the M1 similar to the VR1 w lot of ZDDP but @ ~$23/gal at WM too good $$ to change. I also run same oil in a car, truck and 3 MC's one which is supercharged. Over the years been using it in everything that takes oil and never had a catastrophic failure ...no need for testing to confirm anything. I would bet that the VR1 would be similar story for non wet clutch.

 

[ammolab]

I run the VR-1 20W-50 mixed with the 10W-30 equal volume in my BMW. Excellent results.

Would run the same Maxlife mix without worry.

 

[DoubleWasp]

I wish I could use VR1 in wet clutch.

ML 20/50 is a new realm for me. Not going to have results just yet, but I've filled a 454 boat engine and my GY6 scooter with it, and I'll be doing UOAs.

So far, nothing to complain about in either application.

 

[FermeLaPorte]

Sounds good

 

[alarmguy]

I just ran the 20/50 Maxlife in my Harley, for fun and for an experiment. I bought enough for two changes knowing this was an experiment and no doubt in my mind I was going back to the oil I have been using when I was done. But if I was to choose a non rated oil for my Harley this would be the one, also for metric bikes that don't call for a HEDO, I think many would be thrilled with the Maxlife.

Well, if this is any help, the Maxlife was awesome. By that I mean, super hot daytime temps, long hard runs and the engine was always nice and quiet, I was very impressed, however ....
I never did do the UOA and I never used the second batch I had for the oil change simply because I knew this was just a test and my go to oil (Mystik) was still going to be used after this test, Mystik always ran good with good UOAs so figured I would save the money on a test and just toss out the batch I had for the next oil change.

Anyway, for what its worth, I liked the way the engine sounded with the Maxlife, whether wear was as good as what my go to oil is I don't know. I don't think yo can go wrong with the VR1 or Maxlife, think I would choose the Maxlife though, not sure why, but that's me.

 

[rrounds]

Why not use VR1 20/50 in a wet clutch? I use M1 V-Twin 20/50 in a wet clutch bike and it has more ZDDP than the VR1.
If it(VR1) has Moly, I know guys that run high Moly oils in their bikes with wet clutch's with out slipping(but we all shimmed our clutch springs before our bikes ever hit the track).

ROD

 

[DoubleWasp]

In my particular bike, clutches are known to slip from the moly and FM.

I'd love to run an oil with good moly. Cam wiping or rocker needle bearing failure are not unheard of, and moly has been reasonably proven to be a good cam saver, as much as zinc.

I think I'll give a jignle to some of the aftermarket clutch guys and see if they have a clutch where this isn't an issue.

 

[SuzukiGoat]

Do you have the oil mod for your clutch?

I've got 6k miles on my clutch running the yamaha 15w50. Oil mod since 300 miles.

Zero clutch material in the filter screen.

Streeted unit though, not off-road.