New Rear Sway

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No alignment needed, use the jack in the trunk and slide the tires under the car for safety. Might be able to lower the car's pinch weld onto a ramp to use as a jack stand.
 
You can change it without jacking it up.

Progress customer service sucks. Their sway bar bushings are [censored], one of the bushings was shot less than 1 month / 2k miles. They give me [censored] excuses not to send a replacement. They claimed/guessed that I had an aftermarket exhaust (which they were wrong), and they blamed me for not using a "heat shield" for a friggin rear sway bar. I sent my OE exhaust pics, eventually they admit it's their fault and sent me the replacement. They tried so hard not to accept their fault for selling a defective bushing which costs less than $10. I can't imagine if it was an expensive part, I would have been on my own.

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I'd get another aftermarket sway bar, or get some energy suspension universal bushings and keep them as a spare set.
 
Originally Posted By: AZjeff
Curious for the need to put a new larger anti-sway bar on a '17 Hyundai?


Likewise. I have only met a couple of qualified folks who tune suspensions at the track, never seen anyone do much in a driveway except change their handling. For better or worse?

Pretty hard to beat the factory at that game for overall safe handling without risks.

And I also note that my sig car has elaborate little shields over the sway bar bushings. If any are within a few inches of exhaust components they may be a good idea...
 
A larger sway bar will reduce body roll during turning. I have changed a few cars rear bars for improved handling, reduced understeer. Poly bushings are available from energy suspensions for a "tighter" feel
 
Originally Posted By: bugeye
A larger sway bar will reduce body roll during turning. I have changed a few cars rear bars for improved handling, reduced understeer. Poly bushings are available from energy suspensions for a "tighter" feel


Thanks, I'm well aware of what a stiffer rear A/S bar does. Still not sure the need of a new bar on a '17 Hyundai in day to day driving. Is the OP going to track days? A Sonata isn't really know as a car for spirited driving. Just curious what the OP's needs are.
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: AZjeff
Curious for the need to put a new larger anti-sway bar on a '17 Hyundai?


Likewise. I have only met a couple of qualified folks who tune suspensions at the track, never seen anyone do much in a driveway except change their handling. For better or worse?

Pretty hard to beat the factory at that game for overall safe handling without risks.

And I also note that my sig car has elaborate little shields over the sway bar bushings. If any are within a few inches of exhaust components they may be a good idea...

I would sure start on the soft setting atleast. Seems 17mm is stock and jumping to 22mm seems a bit excessive with no other changes, but do some reading on a sonata forum and see what other guys have found that works.
Adding a rear sway bar will reduce understeer, but not do all that much for reducing body roll overall(a front bar will help that), but if you just want to have more fun autocrossing a fwd car, a rear sway is a good way to get the option to rotate the car more. Just respect that the car is not idiot proof anymore and jerky steering inputs at high speeds may be more exciting than you want!
 
Goal is merely to reduce the body roll to any degree possible, even if marginal. New rear sway was really the only way without changing out the springs. Definitely may add a strut tower brace at some point or a lower body brace. If I were to change the front sway I’d probably just order the factory one off of the sport trim. I got the Progress because I like it’s ability to be adjusted, but for sure will start on the soft setting. That’ll probably be enough for what I’m wanting.

Glad to know that I can change this out without a jack. Besides, if I end up not liking it I can always put the OEM one back. This isn’t a huge permanent difficult change.
 
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Originally Posted By: AZjeff
Originally Posted By: bugeye
A larger sway bar will reduce body roll during turning. I have changed a few cars rear bars for improved handling, reduced understeer. Poly bushings are available from energy suspensions for a "tighter" feel


Thanks, I'm well aware of what a stiffer rear A/S bar does. Still not sure the need of a new bar on a '17 Hyundai in day to day driving. Is the OP going to track days? A Sonata isn't really know as a car for spirited driving. Just curious what the OP's needs are.


Yea it’s for sure not a spirited driving car but it’s the car I bought and I want it to handle a little better is all.
 
Now you guys have me thinking I should’ve just ordered the Sport trim front sway and skipped the rear sway. Well too late now, it already shipped and I don’t think I wanna pay return shipping on it.

Tried to find the specs on the Sport trim sway bar and I can't find it anywhere. So I'm not sure they are in fact larger, but they'd almost certainly have to be with being a Sport model, right? A front sway from the Sport would be $100 vs the $170 I spent on the rear sway. Hmmmmm.....
 
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Front sways can require a few things to be removed to change out. Can you find out the spring rates for the sport trim struts? IF they are stiffer than yours, maybe find some front struts at the wreckers to swap in?
Anyways, if you've ordered the rear sway, try it out and if it makes the back end too loose, put the stock one back in and sell the sway bar for a cheap lesson learned.
 
Just remember to have the wheels the same height off the ground if you're jacking up the car. Don't just jack up one side or you'll never get the sway bar installed.
 
Originally Posted By: Throt
Now you guys have me thinking I should’ve just ordered the Sport trim front sway and skipped the rear sway. Well too late now, it already shipped and I don’t think I wanna pay return shipping on it.

Tried to find the specs on the Sport trim sway bar and I can't find it anywhere. So I'm not sure they are in fact larger, but they'd almost certainly have to be with being a Sport model, right? A front sway from the Sport would be $100 vs the $170 I spent on the rear sway. Hmmmmm.....


Do not skip rear sway bar.

I used Progress 22 mm rear sway bar in my Civic SI, and OE sway bar is 17 mm. So I guess it's very similar with your situation. Let me tell you, it makes a night and day difference.

You need to get rear sway bar first if it's a FWD, rear end must be stiffer than the front. It will reduce understeering, as the other guys mentioned. Don't worry, rear sway bar will reduce body roll as well.

You wouldn't want to reduce roll in the front with aftermarket sway bar. Front wheels need to stay on ground when cornering, especially if you don't have a limited slip. So that's why aftermarket FSB is not the best option if you are looking for best grip. Even some FWD track cars have thinner / no front sway bar to get better traction. You should get a thicker FSB (with thicker RSB, of course) on FWD car only if you do autocrossing, as it would increase initial turn in feedback and steering response.

If you buy FSB and skip the rear, you feel like there is less body roll, but you will have less grip on the front and will have to deal with more understeering.

Check if you have any OE alternatives for rear. I currently have 2015+ Honda Civic SI 20 mm rear sway bar on my Acura (OE RSB diameter is 11 mm). The reason why I went with OEM is $$$$$. I bought it for $50 at the dealer, whereas the Progress is 200$+ Canadian.
 
Originally Posted By: dgunay
Originally Posted By: Throt
Now you guys have me thinking I should’ve just ordered the Sport trim front sway and skipped the rear sway. Well too late now, it already shipped and I don’t think I wanna pay return shipping on it.

Tried to find the specs on the Sport trim sway bar and I can't find it anywhere. So I'm not sure they are in fact larger, but they'd almost certainly have to be with being a Sport model, right? A front sway from the Sport would be $100 vs the $170 I spent on the rear sway. Hmmmmm.....


Do not skip rear sway bar.

I used Progress 22 mm rear sway bar in my Civic SI, and OE sway bar is 17 mm. So I guess it's very similar with your situation. Let me tell you, it makes a night and day difference.

You need to get rear sway bar first if it's a FWD, rear end must be stiffer than the front. It will reduce understeering, as the other guys mentioned. Don't worry, rear sway bar will reduce body roll as well.

You wouldn't want to reduce roll in the front with aftermarket sway bar. Front wheels need to stay on ground when cornering, especially if you don't have a limited slip. So that's why aftermarket FSB is not the best option if you are looking for best grip. Even some FWD track cars have thinner / no front sway bar to get better traction. You should get a thicker FSB (with thicker RSB, of course) on FWD car only if you do autocrossing, as it would increase initial turn in feedback and steering response.

If you buy FSB and skip the rear, you feel like there is less body roll, but you will have less grip on the front and will have to deal with more understeering.

Check if you have any OE alternatives for rear. I currently have 2015+ Honda Civic SI 20 mm rear sway bar on my Acura (OE RSB diameter is 11 mm). The reason why I went with OEM is $$$$$. I bought it for $50 at the dealer, whereas the Progress is 200$+ Canadian.


+1 to everything above.

For me the 'sport version' of the Corolla had the same rear sway as mine so it wasn't an option. So I went from a stock 19mm to 24mm TRD rear sway bar in the Corolla and it completely transformed the drive-ability and fun factor in all seasons. Handling was more crisp, corners were actually fun and safer as the car felt much more planted. I travel a lot of highway and get pretty gusty cross winds and the RSB helped negate the "tossed around" feeling I get from winds. For my next front wheel drive car, if it needs better handling, the RSB will be the first option I will go for as I know it works and it is by far the best bang for the buck handling mod you can do on a front wheel drive car.

Looks like you have done your homework on which RSB you wanted. If it is adjustable that is even better as you can tune it to your liking. Do look at having a longer breaker bar handy just in case...some of those bolts are on there tight (mine were over 150ft lbs.)
 
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It's nice to see guys who understand suspension tuning. Cars are designed to understeer, can't have soccer mom doing counter-steering. Tighter steering and handling is a good thing. Carry on.
 
Originally Posted By: dgunay
Originally Posted By: Throt
Now you guys have me thinking I should’ve just ordered the Sport trim front sway and skipped the rear sway. Well too late now, it already shipped and I don’t think I wanna pay return shipping on it.

Tried to find the specs on the Sport trim sway bar and I can't find it anywhere. So I'm not sure they are in fact larger, but they'd almost certainly have to be with being a Sport model, right? A front sway from the Sport would be $100 vs the $170 I spent on the rear sway. Hmmmmm.....


Do not skip rear sway bar.

I used Progress 22 mm rear sway bar in my Civic SI, and OE sway bar is 17 mm. So I guess it's very similar with your situation. Let me tell you, it makes a night and day difference.

You need to get rear sway bar first if it's a FWD, rear end must be stiffer than the front. It will reduce understeering, as the other guys mentioned. Don't worry, rear sway bar will reduce body roll as well.

You wouldn't want to reduce roll in the front with aftermarket sway bar. Front wheels need to stay on ground when cornering, especially if you don't have a limited slip. So that's why aftermarket FSB is not the best option if you are looking for best grip. Even some FWD track cars have thinner / no front sway bar to get better traction. You should get a thicker FSB (with thicker RSB, of course) on FWD car only if you do autocrossing, as it would increase initial turn in feedback and steering response.

If you buy FSB and skip the rear, you feel like there is less body roll, but you will have less grip on the front and will have to deal with more understeering.

Check if you have any OE alternatives for rear. I currently have 2015+ Honda Civic SI 20 mm rear sway bar on my Acura (OE RSB diameter is 11 mm). The reason why I went with OEM is $$$$$. I bought it for $50 at the dealer, whereas the Progress is 200$+ Canadian.


This is very similar. The Sonata also has a 17mm rear OEM RSB. I’m expecting good things from the new RSB. I’m not aiming to be the Ken Block of Sonata’s. Just want a car that sticks to the road a little better. I swapped out the OEM Kumho’s for a set of Michelin Premier’s and that helped the handling somewhat, but I just need a little more. I have no intentions on changing the FSB. If anything I’d just add a strut bar for a little extras rigidity. But the idea to switch out the struts assemblies with Sport trim spec’d ones, now I can get behind that. Just need to find a Sonata Sport with some parts to donate because I don’t want to pay OEM. Thanks everyone!
 
Originally Posted By: Throt
Originally Posted By: dgunay
Originally Posted By: Throt
Now you guys have me thinking I should’ve just ordered the Sport trim front sway and skipped the rear sway. Well too late now, it already shipped and I don’t think I wanna pay return shipping on it.

Tried to find the specs on the Sport trim sway bar and I can't find it anywhere. So I'm not sure they are in fact larger, but they'd almost certainly have to be with being a Sport model, right? A front sway from the Sport would be $100 vs the $170 I spent on the rear sway. Hmmmmm.....


Do not skip rear sway bar.

I used Progress 22 mm rear sway bar in my Civic SI, and OE sway bar is 17 mm. So I guess it's very similar with your situation. Let me tell you, it makes a night and day difference.

You need to get rear sway bar first if it's a FWD, rear end must be stiffer than the front. It will reduce understeering, as the other guys mentioned. Don't worry, rear sway bar will reduce body roll as well.

You wouldn't want to reduce roll in the front with aftermarket sway bar. Front wheels need to stay on ground when cornering, especially if you don't have a limited slip. So that's why aftermarket FSB is not the best option if you are looking for best grip. Even some FWD track cars have thinner / no front sway bar to get better traction. You should get a thicker FSB (with thicker RSB, of course) on FWD car only if you do autocrossing, as it would increase initial turn in feedback and steering response.

If you buy FSB and skip the rear, you feel like there is less body roll, but you will have less grip on the front and will have to deal with more understeering.

Check if you have any OE alternatives for rear. I currently have 2015+ Honda Civic SI 20 mm rear sway bar on my Acura (OE RSB diameter is 11 mm). The reason why I went with OEM is $$$$$. I bought it for $50 at the dealer, whereas the Progress is 200$+ Canadian.


This is very similar. The Sonata also has a 17mm rear OEM RSB. I’m expecting good things from the new RSB. I’m not aiming to be the Ken Block of Sonata’s. Just want a car that sticks to the road a little better. I swapped out the OEM Kumho’s for a set of Michelin Premier’s and that helped the handling somewhat, but I just need a little more. I have no intentions on changing the FSB. If anything I’d just add a strut bar for a little extras rigidity. But the idea to switch out the struts assemblies with Sport trim spec’d ones, now I can get behind that. Just need to find a Sonata Sport with some parts to donate because I don’t want to pay OEM. Thanks everyone!


My experience is that it will feel like more neutral, instead of understeering. You are not going to get oversteer like a RWD car (not possible), but rear will feel like more rigid, like "one piece". Whole body/chassis will be more responsive. It's hard to describe. You need to be more careful at high speeds though until you really get used to it.

If I were you, I'd also add some negative camber to the front. I am not sure if it is adjustable from the factory, if not, check if there is any aftermarket camber bolt option for Sonata. Maybe -1.3 to -1.8 degrees to the front, and -1.0 to -1.3 to the rear. If you keep toe 0, I wouldn't worry about tread life.
 
One step at a time though... Adding a rear sway and front camber will definitely make the car more prone to losing the back end. I'd more likely add rear camber with a rear sway bar.
What is the balance like now? Everyone assumes fwd means the car understeers, but not all are like that. Lots of them will rotate just fine just letting off the gas mid turn. That's all you really want for a DD.
If you want to keep the car flatter then do sways at both ends, and/or springs at both ends.
 
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