Mobil 1 0W30 AFE

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Messages
1,426
Location
Golden Meadow, LA
Friends vehicle, 2015 Chevy Equinox with the 2.4 DI engine, 31k miles. Since new, I've changed her oil with a Fram Ultra XG9018 and Dexos 5W30, mostly Smittys Super Syn 5W30, whenever the OLM hits 30%, which equals to around 5-5500k miles. It's short tripped alot. Shes a teacher, and the school is only 0.3 miles from her house, she takes her vehicle because she always has alot of papers and classroom supplies to bring,(otherwise she would ride a bike) so, 5 days a week, 0.3 miles to school and then the same in the afternoon. She does go on a long trip every now and then. I'm assuming this engine is susceptible to fuel dilution being DI. Would it be ok and possibly better to run AFE 0W30 due to her frequent short trips, or would fuel dilution be a greater concern?
 
Last edited:
Dexos 5W30 is the right action. Read up on timing chain problems with modern engines (especially GM) and stick with the "right stuff"
 
Originally Posted By: daves87rs
Besides the noise (made my engine loud when I used it), it would be a good choice...


1) I’m really waiting for technical folks to jump in and explain this noise that the long time users have not dealt with … and explain what makes this noise since Mobil is known to use many blends to make a finished product … as do others.
2) I’m also the one who did dB tests on two vastly different motors and PUP was #4 behind 3 M1 products … I bought the meter when my wife noticed PUP was louder … she would not know how to open a hood …
 
Hey 4wd, we have some people who have the diagnosis of CHS.... Can't Hear Stuff.. Well you know you can opt for a different S descriptive term there
smile.gif


This diagnosis is in the same family class of CRS and CSS. Can't Remember Stuff and Can't See Stuff. Again stuff can be easily replaced by another descriptive term here as well.

In your case you must be given credit for actually testing with a piece of legitimate equipment. Well done.
 
5K OCI may or may not be a good thing, considering that the vehicle is short tripped a lot and is DI. This vehicle imo is a prime candidate for a UOA. That would eliminate a lot of guess work.
 
Forget the 0W that spec is rated at 35/40 below zero. Doesn't Mean ANYTHING about oil at Zreo degree or 32 degreees. look at the Viscosity index of the oil and the KV40. A high VI and a low KV 40 might help a tad bit - but not much unless you are currently running a KV40 of 64 and a VI of 140.

I don't know what the KV 40 and VI is of M1 0W30.

I will look it up though
smile.gif

.
.
.

Here it is

KV40: 63 cSt
VI 166
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: FermeLaPorte
Fuel dilution is a big issue that people in this forum don't really consider.


I disagree wholeheartedly... every time someone posts a UOA of a 3.5EB (especially) that shows fuel dilution of 5, 6, 7, 10%, hordes of people jump on the fuel dilution bandwagon and say retarded things like "Change the oil with every gas tank fill-up or your engine will explode!" Dnewton had quite the nice post on smacking these people in the face with data that proves 99% of their fears are unfounded.

Yes, fuel dilution is higher than in port-injected engines. Understood. But the whole point of a UOA is to determine wear TRENDS and to highlight anomalies in the operating conditions of an engine. If an engine returns 5% fuel dilution and yet wear RATES are essentially equal to port-injected engines (say 2ppm Fe/1k miles), the engine is saying that sure, there is fuel, but nothing untoward is yet happening.

For reference, look at the old carbureted Chevy 350s. Many of them had fuel dilution problems because the carb needles would stick and heavily overfuel the engine... AND UOAs of 350 Chevys routinely return 9+ ppm FE/1k... but nobody really freaks out about these UOAs! Let the data do the talking. Just say no to imitating Chicken Little.
 
Have to agree that 0WXX is probably a waste way down South.
0W30 AFE is good oil and I'm sure it will work fine, but its cold weather properties will be meaningless at the temps you will experience.
If fuel dilution is that much of a concern, maybe look for an oil that's thicker than 10.9cSt at 100C like that AFE? I don't know if HTHS is worth looking at too carefully in that engine given that it will rarely get up to a regular operating temp, much less an extreme temp. For example, M1 5W30 AP ($) is 11.7 cSt at 100C while M1 5W30 ESP ($$) is 12 cSt at that temp (the latter also has a very high HTHS for its grade), but only the former is a dexos1 oil while ESP is dexos2 (diesel). Pennzoil Gold 5W30 blend is also 11.7 cSt at 100C as well as dexos1 licensed, FWIW.
 
Last edited:
M1 0w30 appears average at best for a winter oil.

If you want high VI, go ENEOS 5w30 Sustina; IIRC VI is >> 190.

There may be other options too.

Back in the day Motul 8100 ECO-Nergy was the best winter oil Ive used. At 15 deg F, Car started and warmed up like it was 70 deg out!
 
Last edited:
5W30 GSUD or even try Valvoline full syn 5W30 with Maxlife Technolgy. Both are very good oils and would serve her well for at least 5K OCI's.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
M1 0w30 appears average at best for a winter oil.

If you want high VI, go ENEOS 5w30 Sustina; IIRC VI is >> 190.

You know full well, though, at -35 the M1 0w-30 will be more suitable than any 5w-30. I'd have no problem using the Sustina, though, even in our winters. Finding it is another issue.
wink.gif


At least M1 0w-30 AFE goes on sale, and can actually be found on many shelves.
 
Originally Posted By: mobilaltima
0W30 AFE is Dexos approved. Itll most likely be Supertech Dexos 5W30 in the Equinox from here on out


I checked a couple of days ago and M1 0W30 AFE was the ONLY 0W30 on the master list of dexos1 Gen 2 licenses!
Still haven't seen jugs with the new logo or license number in WMs around here...
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top