-32°....as in 32 degree's "below" Zero??? If it was mine I would have 1/2 Mobil 1 0W20 and 1/2 Mobil 1 0W30 in it.
0 oil pressure for 10 seconds
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I have an aftermarket oil pressure gauge in my car, we hit a cold snap like this a couple of times every year. I run Mobil 1 0w30 and even that will show zero on the gauge for a time (usually less than 10 seconds though, more like 3 seconds or so), then it starts to slowly rise. Takes about about 30 seconds before it reaches operating pressure. The car is approaching 20 years old (and 20 winters of punishment) and ~200k miles and the cold hasn't killed it yet.
But that said, I have a block heater (used off and on, when I can remember).
But that said, I have a block heater (used off and on, when I can remember).
Originally Posted By: littleant
Just serviced about a month ago with valvoline maxlife 5w30 SB and added a little zinc and 1/4 bottle of lubro moly mos2 and motorcraft FL-1A. Does it sound like the adbv did not open quick enough. This is a top thread adbv. Your opinions are appreciated.
1. I'd skip the additives, which might be thickening your oil slightly along with the High Mileage oil
2. The larger filter will take longer to fill up if the ADBV fails, which is likely what happened
When I used a larger filter, I had the same thing happen on a cold winter day. I now use Wix 51516 (Napa 1516) which are skinnier with a silicone valve and I have instant oil pressure on a cold start.
Just serviced about a month ago with valvoline maxlife 5w30 SB and added a little zinc and 1/4 bottle of lubro moly mos2 and motorcraft FL-1A. Does it sound like the adbv did not open quick enough. This is a top thread adbv. Your opinions are appreciated.
1. I'd skip the additives, which might be thickening your oil slightly along with the High Mileage oil
2. The larger filter will take longer to fill up if the ADBV fails, which is likely what happened
When I used a larger filter, I had the same thing happen on a cold winter day. I now use Wix 51516 (Napa 1516) which are skinnier with a silicone valve and I have instant oil pressure on a cold start.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
-32F is -36C. The MRV (pumping) test limit for the 5W designation is at -35C. You then also "dosed" the oil with various additives, which may have had an impact on its cold temperature performance as well.
You may literally have had no oil pumping until the thrash of the pump gears made enough heat to enable drawing that goop in.
This is why 0w-xx exists.
You may literally have had no oil pumping until the thrash of the pump gears made enough heat to enable drawing that goop in.
This is why 0w-xx exists.
What if the rubber of the ADBV becomes very stiff at such an extreme temperature? Then it might be reluctant to open, or break under the force of oil pressure.
I have used both block heaters and the magnetic stick on oil pan heaters in temperatures below -20F and have found that the oil pan heaters are more effective in warming the oil in a shorter period of time. This is only true if the bottom of the oil pan is exposed from underneath and is reasonably flat and is steel. The magnetic heaters are also real handy for occasional use for a variety of mechanical equipment and they require no modifications to the vehicle in cold weather. This is my suggestion to your extreme cold. Good Luck.
Originally Posted By: oldhp
-32°....as in 32 degree's "below" Zero??? If it was mine I would have 1/2 Mobil 1 0W20 and 1/2 Mobil 1 0W30 in it.
Yes Sir. Tonight the same. Wednesday they predict -30 to -35.
-32°....as in 32 degree's "below" Zero??? If it was mine I would have 1/2 Mobil 1 0W20 and 1/2 Mobil 1 0W30 in it.
Yes Sir. Tonight the same. Wednesday they predict -30 to -35.
Originally Posted By: littleant
Just serviced about a month ago with valvoline maxlife 5w30 SB and added a little zinc and 1/4 bottle of lubro moly mos2 and motorcraft FL-1A.
Maybe the additives and the filter are the cause. Maybe try the Maxlife and a less restrictive filter.
Just serviced about a month ago with valvoline maxlife 5w30 SB and added a little zinc and 1/4 bottle of lubro moly mos2 and motorcraft FL-1A.
Maybe the additives and the filter are the cause. Maybe try the Maxlife and a less restrictive filter.
Switch to 0W-30. No additives.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
-32F is -36C. The MRV (pumping) test limit for the 5W designation is at -35C. You then also "dosed" the oil with various additives, which may have had an impact on its cold temperature performance as well.
You may literally have had no oil pumping until the thrash of the pump gears made enough heat to enable drawing that goop in.
This is why 0w-xx exists.
I’m glad someone knows what they are talking about
-32F is -36C. The MRV (pumping) test limit for the 5W designation is at -35C. You then also "dosed" the oil with various additives, which may have had an impact on its cold temperature performance as well.
You may literally have had no oil pumping until the thrash of the pump gears made enough heat to enable drawing that goop in.
This is why 0w-xx exists.
I’m glad someone knows what they are talking about
Let’s see, the temperature had reached the pour point of MaxLife 5W30. No need to overthink things. Time for a block heater. Switching to Mobil 1 High Mileage 0W20 will lower the pour point.
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Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
-32F is -36C. The MRV (pumping) test limit for the 5W designation is at -35C. You then also "dosed" the oil with various additives, which may have had an impact on its cold temperature performance as well.
You may literally have had no oil pumping until the thrash of the pump gears made enough heat to enable drawing that goop in.
This. Pour point has nothing to do with any of this. Choose an oil viscosity suitable for ambient, as you indicate, and don't add garbage to the oil. When Valvoline conducted the CCS and MRV tests for their oil, they didn't test it with a bunch of stuff from the additive aisle added to the oil.
For most additives, the carrier oil is probably going to be a monograde 20 or 30, which will be rather counterproductive to winter starting.
-32F is -36C. The MRV (pumping) test limit for the 5W designation is at -35C. You then also "dosed" the oil with various additives, which may have had an impact on its cold temperature performance as well.
You may literally have had no oil pumping until the thrash of the pump gears made enough heat to enable drawing that goop in.
This. Pour point has nothing to do with any of this. Choose an oil viscosity suitable for ambient, as you indicate, and don't add garbage to the oil. When Valvoline conducted the CCS and MRV tests for their oil, they didn't test it with a bunch of stuff from the additive aisle added to the oil.
For most additives, the carrier oil is probably going to be a monograde 20 or 30, which will be rather counterproductive to winter starting.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
I will also add that this study on oil flow at low temperatures via CCS and MRV
highlights an issue, and that is that the 4.0L I6 is particularly sensitive to pumping viscosity and fails to pump several degrees higher than the other engines tested. They mention at the beginning that the MRV limit for this engine is more in-line with the old J300 standard of 30,000cP rather than the current limit of 60,000cP.
It's a long read, but it does really highlight the issues that can be encountered at these temperatures. Putting additives into the mix is just asking to make that situation significantly worse.
highlights an issue, and that is that the 4.0L I6 is particularly sensitive to pumping viscosity and fails to pump several degrees higher than the other engines tested. They mention at the beginning that the MRV limit for this engine is more in-line with the old J300 standard of 30,000cP rather than the current limit of 60,000cP.
It's a long read, but it does really highlight the issues that can be encountered at these temperatures. Putting additives into the mix is just asking to make that situation significantly worse.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
I will also add that this study on oil flow at low temperatures via CCS and MRV
highlights an issue, and that is that the 4.0L I6 is particularly sensitive to pumping viscosity and fails to pump several degrees higher than the other engines tested. They mention at the beginning that the MRV limit for this engine is more in-line with the old J300 standard of 30,000cP rather than the current limit of 60,000cP.
It's a long read, but it does really highlight the issues that can be encountered at these temperatures. Putting additives into the mix is just asking to make that situation significantly worse.
Nice work OVERKILL, I was about to post exactly the same thing...the 4.0 in all the studies that I've read struggles the most in cold temperatures...to the point that to normalise the results amongst engine designs, they have to exclude it from the process.
So if I had a Jeep 4.0, it would be running a 0W30, 3.5HTHS...no additives (or simply M1 0W40).
I will also add that this study on oil flow at low temperatures via CCS and MRV
highlights an issue, and that is that the 4.0L I6 is particularly sensitive to pumping viscosity and fails to pump several degrees higher than the other engines tested. They mention at the beginning that the MRV limit for this engine is more in-line with the old J300 standard of 30,000cP rather than the current limit of 60,000cP.
It's a long read, but it does really highlight the issues that can be encountered at these temperatures. Putting additives into the mix is just asking to make that situation significantly worse.
Nice work OVERKILL, I was about to post exactly the same thing...the 4.0 in all the studies that I've read struggles the most in cold temperatures...to the point that to normalise the results amongst engine designs, they have to exclude it from the process.
So if I had a Jeep 4.0, it would be running a 0W30, 3.5HTHS...no additives (or simply M1 0W40).
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
I will also add that this study on oil flow at low temperatures via CCS and MRV
highlights an issue, and that is that the 4.0L I6 is particularly sensitive to pumping viscosity and fails to pump several degrees higher than the other engines tested. They mention at the beginning that the MRV limit for this engine is more in-line with the old J300 standard of 30,000cP rather than the current limit of 60,000cP.
It's a long read, but it does really highlight the issues that can be encountered at these temperatures. Putting additives into the mix is just asking to make that situation significantly worse.
Nice work OVERKILL, I was about to post exactly the same thing...the 4.0 in all the studies that I've read struggles the most in cold temperatures...to the point that to normalise the results amongst engine designs, they have to exclude it from the process.
So if I had a Jeep 4.0, it would be running a 0W30, 3.5HTHS...no additives (or simply M1 0W40).
I had remembered coming across the study before and it took me a while to locate it.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
I will also add that this study on oil flow at low temperatures via CCS and MRV
highlights an issue, and that is that the 4.0L I6 is particularly sensitive to pumping viscosity and fails to pump several degrees higher than the other engines tested. They mention at the beginning that the MRV limit for this engine is more in-line with the old J300 standard of 30,000cP rather than the current limit of 60,000cP.
It's a long read, but it does really highlight the issues that can be encountered at these temperatures. Putting additives into the mix is just asking to make that situation significantly worse.
Nice work OVERKILL, I was about to post exactly the same thing...the 4.0 in all the studies that I've read struggles the most in cold temperatures...to the point that to normalise the results amongst engine designs, they have to exclude it from the process.
So if I had a Jeep 4.0, it would be running a 0W30, 3.5HTHS...no additives (or simply M1 0W40).
I had remembered coming across the study before and it took me a while to locate it.
Originally Posted By: littleant
The jeep always had a light piston slap when I purchased 6 years ago with 55,000 now have 168,000 miles. Once engine is warm no slap at all. This morning there was no more noise then usual (actually a little less). Dead quite when warm and driving. Use to run maxlife 5w30 conventional or Quaker state defy 5w30 conventional. Now both are synthetic blend and was a little more noisy. That is why I add the little zinc and moly.
Sinth blend imo is a waste of money, either you go full synth or full dyno, in-between is neither fish nor fowl, what are you saving, pennies I bet. A full synth probably wouldn't have given such a hard time on starting, also going down to 0W... would be of great help.
The jeep always had a light piston slap when I purchased 6 years ago with 55,000 now have 168,000 miles. Once engine is warm no slap at all. This morning there was no more noise then usual (actually a little less). Dead quite when warm and driving. Use to run maxlife 5w30 conventional or Quaker state defy 5w30 conventional. Now both are synthetic blend and was a little more noisy. That is why I add the little zinc and moly.
Sinth blend imo is a waste of money, either you go full synth or full dyno, in-between is neither fish nor fowl, what are you saving, pennies I bet. A full synth probably wouldn't have given such a hard time on starting, also going down to 0W... would be of great help.
So, to compile all the excellent suggestions here;
Run a 0w-30 synthetic oil. Mobil 1 is an excellent example.
Get a heater. A magnetic oil pan type would be the simplest way to go.
Stop using the additives. The M1 is all you need with a very good HTHS and add pack.
I would get the heater ASAP.
Run a 0w-30 synthetic oil. Mobil 1 is an excellent example.
Get a heater. A magnetic oil pan type would be the simplest way to go.
Stop using the additives. The M1 is all you need with a very good HTHS and add pack.
I would get the heater ASAP.
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Originally Posted By: Pelican
Originally Posted By: littleant
The jeep always had a light piston slap when I purchased 6 years ago with 55,000 now have 168,000 miles. Once engine is warm no slap at all. This morning there was no more noise then usual (actually a little less). Dead quite when warm and driving. Use to run maxlife 5w30 conventional or Quaker state defy 5w30 conventional. Now both are synthetic blend and was a little more noisy. That is why I add the little zinc and moly.
Sinth blend imo is a waste of money, either you go full synth or full dyno, in-between is neither fish nor fowl, what are you saving, pennies I bet. A full synth probably wouldn't have given such a hard time on starting, also going down to 0W... would be of great help.
Not trying to save Penny's at all. In my repost I stated > tried full synthetic 5w-30 when I purchased. It was summer and the piston slap was loud with the synthetic < Went with quaker state defy 5w-30 conventional or Maxlife conventional both no longer made both worked great for 100,000 miles.
Originally Posted By: littleant
The jeep always had a light piston slap when I purchased 6 years ago with 55,000 now have 168,000 miles. Once engine is warm no slap at all. This morning there was no more noise then usual (actually a little less). Dead quite when warm and driving. Use to run maxlife 5w30 conventional or Quaker state defy 5w30 conventional. Now both are synthetic blend and was a little more noisy. That is why I add the little zinc and moly.
Sinth blend imo is a waste of money, either you go full synth or full dyno, in-between is neither fish nor fowl, what are you saving, pennies I bet. A full synth probably wouldn't have given such a hard time on starting, also going down to 0W... would be of great help.
Not trying to save Penny's at all. In my repost I stated > tried full synthetic 5w-30 when I purchased. It was summer and the piston slap was loud with the synthetic < Went with quaker state defy 5w-30 conventional or Maxlife conventional both no longer made both worked great for 100,000 miles.
Does anyone believe that adding 1/4 bottle of Liqui Moly MOS2 would thicken a 6qt oil capacity of 5w-30 to the point of no oil pressure for 10 second's??
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