Does anti-seize ever go bad?

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I don't think it does and I found a really good bargain on nickel anti-seize so I decided to jump on it.

I am assuming that as long as I keep it properly sealed and possibly even take the extra step of storing it in some sort of Ziploc bag to keep the air out in addition to the container that it comes in, I should be good for years if not decades, right?

Main thing I'm after is making sure my garage is stocked on certain essentials such as brake cleaner, carb cleaner, sealants, lubricants, MAF cleaner, etc. so that I don't have to stop in the middle of a job and run to the parts store for something that I should already have.

Was my thinking clear on anti-seize or did I just throw away money if I don't use it in X period of time?
 
I have been dipping into the same can of nickel anti seize for well over 20 years.
I would never have considered it going "Bad".
It ain't yogurt. Microbes can't live in it.
And air can't hurt it either.
Dirt would be the only issue.
 
The bristles on the little brush eventually start breaking off... other than that, it pretty much lasts forever.
 
In my experience with a 30 yr. can; it dries out and becomes super thick. I added some non detergent 20 engine oil to thin it. Works great Permatex tech told me oil is what the base fluid is. In use, the oil evaporates, leaving the metallic particles to do the "anti seizing".
 
Originally Posted By: 4wheeldog
And air can't hurt it either.


What I was thinking about when I mentioned air is that I would imagine that air could create the possibility of it hardening over time if the threads on the cap get dirty. I realize I'm probably overthinking it a bit, but I just want it to last.
 
I think I have you guys beat. I still have the same can of nickel antiseize that was given to me 35 years ago. As others, I've had to periodically add oil to thin it back to original consistency.
 
Originally Posted By: qdeezie
Originally Posted By: 4wheeldog
And air can't hurt it either.


What I was thinking about when I mentioned air is that I would imagine that air could create the possibility of it hardening over time if the threads on the cap get dirty. I realize I'm probably overthinking it a bit, but I just want it to last.


The oil in it shouldn't oxidize. It's not vegetable oil. So it shouldn't harden. What would you be using all this anti seize for that you'd have to keep an inventory? My uncle worked in maintenance at a coal fired power plant. He said they used a lot of anti seize.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
It doesn't go bad. Archeologist will dig this up and claim they found old tribal war paint.


Or maybe it's some sort of make-up?
laugh.gif
 
Originally Posted By: maverickfhs
Originally Posted By: Trav
It doesn't go bad. Archeologist will dig this up and claim they found old tribal war paint.


Or maybe it's some sort of make-up?
laugh.gif



MadMax war paint.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
It doesn't go bad. Archeologist will dig this up and claim they found old tribal war paint.


lol.gif
 
Originally Posted By: NibbanaBanana
What would you be using all this anti seize for that you'd have to keep an inventory?


My personal auto fleet is beginning to grow (recently grew to 4 vehicles, possibly 5 by the end of 2018) and I frequently travel back and forth across the state (roughly 200 miles one way) to check up on relatives that are getting up there in age.

With this in mind, my preference when I do maintenance is if the repair is a scenario where I should use anti-seize, that's what I'd like to do to avoid future problems when performing future routine maintenance. For instance, I know that if nothing else, I'll be changing out spark plugs and O2 sensors from time to time to keep things fresh and I'd just like to have it on hand.
 
A friend rounded up old jars of Anti-Seize from his job. They were well dented but far from empty.

I finally got organized one day and broke out a nitrile glove and a knife.

I cut the jars and squeegeed all the remaining contents out with my fingers.

I added thin oil (the Permatex rep educated me) and messaged all the lumps back to life and made up 3 nearly full jars.

One of which was my own but I didn't have to tell him that.

My friend got shelf space in return.

Who's better than me?

Who's life is more exciting than mine?
 
Originally Posted By: NibbanaBanana
My uncle worked in maintenance at a coal fired power plant. He said they used a lot of anti seize.


I've had quite a few turbine overhauls carried out.

Most of the antisieze disappears while the machines are being pulled apart rather than going back together. The Contractor will have a fully stocked workshop tool store, and the antisieze will be gone twice before re-assembly.
 
Out of curiosity..........what is Copper Anti-Seize normally used for?

I have the "regular" and the nickel stuff. I'm clear on what my uses will be for both of those.

Any real need to get the copper?
 
Originally Posted By: qdeezie
Out of curiosity..........what is Copper Anti-Seize normally used for?

I have the "regular" and the nickel stuff. I'm clear on what my uses will be for both of those.

Any real need to get the copper?


High temp areas and aluminum . Nickel can cause corrosion on aluminum .
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Kestas
I think I have you guys beat. I still have the same can of nickel antiseize that was given to me 35 years ago. As others, I've had to periodically add oil to thin it back to original consistency.


My dad has one of those too! I don't know how old it is but he says he bought it before he and my mom met.
 
I thinned-out my congealed Permatex Copper anti-seize a couple of days ago, using low-odor mineral spirits. My guess is that the mineral spirits won't last long before evaporating...but I can always add more.

Went from two brush-cap tubs that were nearly un-useable, to one that spreads nicely. So far, so good.
 
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