Permanent Red vs High Temp High Strength Loctite?

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Yes I’m back again with another exhaust related thread. Just extracted a stud I snapped last Sun using some shade tree tactics. Don’t ever wanna touch another friggin exhaust pipe again.

This time around using manufacturer torque specs. However the only loctite I have available is medium blue and high strength red/needs a torch to remove which I don’t have. I’m thinking heat cycling itself may be enough to negate needing a torch but don’t wanna chance it.
 
I don't get the statement that you and many others have used that you need a torch to remove fasteners that have red loctite on them. I have never used anything but red loctite, and have never had any trouble removing a nut or bolt that has it. Sure it turns harder, but never needed heat. Actually I would think that it wouldn't even hold up under the heat of exhaust.
 
That’s what I figured but believe me when I say after the last few weeks I’m done with exhaust.
 
I can't imagine any type of Loctite surviving an exhaust manifold.

My experience with permanent Loctite is that without heat, you're not going to remove that fastener. Unless you machine it out. It only takes a propane torch. No big expense.
 
Originally Posted By: Hemispheres
Yes I’m back again with another exhaust related thread. Just extracted a stud I snapped last Sun using some shade tree tactics. Don’t ever wanna touch another friggin exhaust pipe again.

This time around using manufacturer torque specs. However the only loctite I have available is medium blue and high strength red/needs a torch to remove which I don’t have. I’m thinking heat cycling itself may be enough to negate needing a torch but don’t wanna chance it.


Never Seize not loctite on exhaust studs, use copper nuts if they are available.
 
I’m asking because my service manual says to use gm 12345493 which should be loctite 262. I used blue on the lower intake bolts with no issue though despite it calling for the same thread locker.
 
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