Does synthetic oil stick to parts/surfaces better?

Status
Not open for further replies.

irv

Joined
Oct 8, 2006
Messages
2,219
Location
Oshawa, Ont. Canada
Curious, as I recall reading this, quite a few years ago, mind you, if synthetic oil(s) stick to parts/components better than dino oils?
I believe some experiments were done that showed it did, which of course would help with cold/dry startups but being as it has likely been years since I heard/read about that, I was wondering if that has now been debunked?
 
Originally Posted By: irv
Curious, as I recall reading this, quite a few years ago, mind you, if synthetic oil(s) stick to parts/components better than dino oils?


Pretty sure I read the exact opposite.
 
Originally Posted By: Linctex
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/1930279/1

I guess that previous thread didn't generate sufficient responses or at least not the correct ones
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
I guess that previous thread didn't generate sufficient responses or at least not the correct ones
wink.gif



That thread was from 7.5 years ago and not from June of this year, fyi.
 
crackmeup2.gif
Guess I didn't recall writing this back in 2010!

From what I got re-reading those 6 pgs from 2010 is that nothing new has come forward, conclusively, to say one way or another than synthetic oils stick to metal parts.

From memory, which obviously isn't very good, I thought I seen/heard something conclusively that showed/proved it did?
That might have been the basis for my original post, wondering what members here, with a lot more knowledge than me, thought/heard about it?
21.gif
 
Originally Posted By: slowrench
I read on here years ago that dino oil sticks to parts, better between start-ups, because it contains up to 10% wax.


No, I think all modern oil base stocks are de-waxed.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: DBMaster
Anyone remember this commercial?



Sure do, but hard to believe that was back in 1995!
shocked.gif


I'm not sure this site was around then but I am sure if it was, the, whether Castrol did or didn't stick to metal parts, was discussed thoroughly?
 
I do remember that Syntec Commercial. Good Marketing.

Theories are abundant, but I have seen folks claiming the Ester based oils like Redline have an ability to cling to metal parts for cars that dont get driven often.

I was actually considering switching to RL just for this reason since 2 of my cars get driven about 1500 miles a year.

Currently all my cars run Castrol Edge.

So after seeing that commercial agian, haha maybe I wont. haha.


Jeff
 
So there are a couple of things going on here. All engines with any oil will stay "wet" on the inside. But, there is the issue of capillary fill. That is the residual film maintained between closely spaced parts like rod bearings.

True synthetics usually have lower surface tension than most dino oils. So they will slowly ease their way out from between some spaces. New tight engine - no issue. 200,000 mile motor with worn bearings, may want dino in there instead for cold start cushion ...

Now, most true synthetics will not mix well with most commercial add paks. So the add paks are in solution in mineral oil or dino base oil. That means there will always be some dino oil in most any automotive lube. Maybe not in jet engine lube, but for us, there will be some percentage of dino.

Bottom line is they are all syn-blends. Some with 75% synthetic and some with 7.5% and most refiners are not saying which is which ...
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top