2013 1500 Ram Hemi 4x4 Bighorn diff fluid change+

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irv

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Oct 8, 2006
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Oshawa, Ont. Canada
Just curious, as my truck now has around 65,000 km's, I'd like to do some fluid changes. What is recommended or can be used in my diffs and transfer case? I like Amsoil severe gear but I am unsure about compatibility and if I need a friction modifier with my posi/limited slip rear diff? I use Mobil in my sleds chain cases and have used that previously in my other vehicles diffs so that is also an option.

Also, seeing as I am overdue for a plug change (Recommended at 48,000 kms) what are some good plugs to use (I need 16!) that are going to last a lot longer than 48,000 kms?
The manual says to remove and inspect them but if I am going that far, they are going to be replaced, end of story.

Also, while I'm at it, what other recommendations does anyone suggest that I do?

Thanks.
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Originally Posted By: xxch4osxx
Trans fluid as well. Check the manual for viscosities. If its still under warranty, use only a licensed ATF-4 fluid.


I was thinking about that also, but wasn't entirely sure? When you did yours, assuming you did, did you also flush the torque converter?

My powertrain warranty will be over this coming June, in 2018, so by the time I likely get around to it, it will be close to being over anyways.
I was just wondering, as this is my first Dodge/Ram vehicle in eons, if numbers/requirements had changed much since then? I did some reading, back about 10 pgs, and I still see Mobil 75-90 syn is still fairly popular as far as diff fluids go.

I currently have some in stock but I am unsure if I have enough to do both diffs?
 
Originally Posted By: irv
Originally Posted By: xxch4osxx
Trans fluid as well. Check the manual for viscosities. If its still under warranty, use only a licensed ATF-4 fluid.


I was thinking about that also, but wasn't entirely sure? When you did yours, assuming you did, did you also flush the torque converter?

My powertrain warranty will be over this coming June, in 2018, so by the time I likely get around to it, it will be close to being over anyways.
I was just wondering, as this is my first Dodge/Ram vehicle in eons, if numbers/requirements had changed much since then? I did some reading, back about 10 pgs, and I still see Mobil 75-90 syn is still fairly popular as far as diff fluids go.

I currently have some in stock but I am unsure if I have enough to do both diffs?
I have around 42,000kms on mine but I haven't done any fluid changes other than oil and filters on it yet. I plan on changing both diffs, trans and transfer case this coming spring. My owners manual shows 75w140 for the rear diff even though its a 1500 series. I have Amsoil Severe Gear that will be going in the diffs. The transmission in mine is a 65RFE six speed, so it will be getting an ATF-4 fluid. The transfer case I think uses transmission fluid but I will have to verify that.
 
Originally Posted By: xxch4osxx
Originally Posted By: irv
Originally Posted By: xxch4osxx
Trans fluid as well. Check the manual for viscosities. If its still under warranty, use only a licensed ATF-4 fluid.


I was thinking about that also, but wasn't entirely sure? When you did yours, assuming you did, did you also flush the torque converter?

My powertrain warranty will be over this coming June, in 2018, so by the time I likely get around to it, it will be close to being over anyways.
I was just wondering, as this is my first Dodge/Ram vehicle in eons, if numbers/requirements had changed much since then? I did some reading, back about 10 pgs, and I still see Mobil 75-90 syn is still fairly popular as far as diff fluids go.

I currently have some in stock but I am unsure if I have enough to do both diffs?
I have around 42,000kms on mine but I haven't done any fluid changes other than oil and filters on it yet. I plan on changing both diffs, trans and transfer case this coming spring. My owners manual shows 75w140 for the rear diff even though its a 1500 series. I have Amsoil Severe Gear that will be going in the diffs. The transmission in mine is a 65RFE six speed, so it will be getting an ATF-4 fluid. The transfer case I think uses transmission fluid but I will have to verify that.


I believe you're right about the transfer case and it requiring ATF? My manual is in the truck and it's across the street so just being lazy and not wanting to currently retrieve it.
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I also have the 6sp, it's the center console model. When I ordered my 13 Big Horn, I wanted the the 8sp but I was told they were currently sold out of those??
When mine arrived, many on the same truck had 8sps.
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75W-140 is surprising? Is your's the limited slip, or whatever Ram calls it?
 
Well, here's my suggestion. Grab the owner's manual. Check what specs your truck takes. Buy synthetic fluids that meet the specs. You're now two steps ahead of most people by simply changing your fluids and using synthetic.
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Originally Posted By: Ethan1
Well, here's my suggestion. Grab the owner's manual. Check what specs your truck takes. Buy synthetic fluids that meet the specs. You're now two steps ahead of most people by simply changing your fluids and using synthetic.
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I agree, and will definitely be doing this come spring when time permits.
Lots of Youtube vids about everything I need as well, but I did see a guy tonight suggest that dielectric grease be put on hemi's spark plugs threads!
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For the plugs, I would use whatever is on the hood sticker. Might be copper cores and if that's what is OEM, use them and change them more often. It'll run worse on fancier plugs.
 
My 2012 Ram 1500 5.7L Bighorn 4X4 has been running great on Autolite Iridium plugs since I used them to replace the original copper plugs at 30K miles.

My transfer case is the BW 44-44 so I bought the special Mopar BW 44-44 fluid via the internet for under $20 / qt.

My transmission is the 68RE and I did a simple pan drop & change of filters with ATF+4 at around 36K miles. Took 7.5 qts plus0.5 qt for the power steering.

My front differential uses 75W-90, the rear calls for 75W-140. Some documents recommend 75W-85 in the front differential but I'm not going to chase that.
 
I did the plugs in my 2011 around the 87k mark. Looked perfect. Took me less than 3 hours with a beer and a kid to keep me company. The transfer case on that one did not have the auto 4x4 so it did not require any special friction modified fluid so Amsoil multi vehicle ATF went in, worked fine. The diff got Co-op gear oil SL, group 4 80w140. It has the friction modifier in it and worked like a charm. Many many hard towing miles and the fluid came out honey colored and next to nothing for debris.

The trans got Co-op ATF SL, group 4 synthetic and the Mopar filters. Worked just fine for many, many hard towing miles.
 
Further looking at youtube vids, I wasn't aware or forgot, on the 2013's, there is no need to remove the diff cover as it has a drain plug.
Being anal, I'd like to remove the cover to spray brake cleaner in there to wash everything out but I am also thinking, maybe I'll just spray some in the fill/drain holes and wash it out that way?
I will make sure to either blow it out, ensure it's dry via paper toweling or the similar before I refill it.
Thoughts?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5spRbhjo9uc

This guy also does the plugs but skips a lot of steps. Looks a little labor intensive but it's got to be done. Iridiums is what I am going with and if I understand correctly, longer life spark plugs now exist for this truck?

Thanks for the info so far. I appreciate it.
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My 2011 had the drain and fill plugs on the rear, long story short, there was a recall for under filled diffs from the factory and fill plugs that were too low in the diff which caused catastrophic failures. The first drain I found my diff overfilled past the fill plug so I maintained that level with the other changes.

I am not a fan of taking the cover off. Was the same with the trans pan. Ram likes to use RTV, which is a pain to clean up and re-seal. That alone took longer than the actual drain and fill.
 
Originally Posted By: BrianF
My 2011 had the drain and fill plugs on the rear, long story short, there was a recall for under filled diffs from the factory and fill plugs that were too low in the diff which caused catastrophic failures. The first drain I found my diff overfilled past the fill plug so I maintained that level with the other changes.

I am not a fan of taking the cover off. Was the same with the trans pan. Ram likes to use RTV, which is a pain to clean up and re-seal. That alone took longer than the actual drain and fill.


I wasn't aware of that? So just RTV no gasket? Like I mentioned, I'd like to clean in there but I am afraid some pockets exist that would allow all the fluid nor the brake clean to drain?
I guess it will be a game time decision whether I decide to take the cover off or not? I guess the best scenario is have everything prepared ahead of time and immediately pull the drain plug after a longish drive to make sure the oil is good and warm/hot.
 
I was watching this other Colesfixitright video about doing a transmission fluid change and I was surprised to see another filter in there just like an oil filter.
Is this the norm just on these trucks or do a lot of other manu's trucks/vehicles now have these?
I see he only uses transmission silicone/sealant on the pan, not the supplied gasket.
Got to hand it to this guy for doing everything on a creeper on the floor.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3Be-gYhshY
 
Now to be fair, my truck had the 545RFE trans, not sure what unit yours has. It is the same trans as the 6 speed but not the 8 speed. What I found when I pulled the pan was no debris, the usual magnet sludge but overall it was very nice. In fact if I had to do it again, I would skip the filter change and just do a full fluid exchange. Same with the rear diff. The reason I pulled the diff cover was to inspect the gears as I was towing very, very heavy and wanted to do a visual and ensure I was not destroying anything.

Another of the issues I ran into was the fact that my truck was filthy. There was caked mud/dirt all over the chassis. I tried to knock as much off as I could but it definitely made this job harder.

Don't flush the diff with brake clean, it wont gain you anything. Just do a basic drain and fill. If you feel there is more debris in there that should be removed, do a short run on new oil and then drain/fill again. I did a drain/fill and then a year later I did another with the cover off. The thing was spotless.
 
Originally Posted By: irv
I was watching this other Colesfixitright video about doing a transmission fluid change and I was surprised to see another filter in there just like an oil filter.
Is this the norm just on these trucks or do a lot of other manu's trucks/vehicles now have these?
I see he only uses transmission silicone/sealant on the pan, not the supplied gasket.
Got to hand it to this guy for doing everything on a creeper on the floor.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3Be-gYhshY


Two filters is the standard design for this particular transmission through several model numbers: one pan filter and one spin-on canister filter internal to the transmission case.

https://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/545RFE.html

Several board members have modified the spin-on filter to something high efficiency, both internal to and external to the transmission case.

The only thing I dislike is Mopar's use of RTV for the transmission pan gasket. Fortunately there are plenty of aftermarket filter pan gaskets available, often included in a filter kit. I avoid the cork gaskets but have had good performance with the fiber gaskets included in kits from ATP and one Parts Master kit I have included a rubber gasket.

Be careful to make sure you get the correct pan filter for yor transmission; there's a 2WD version and a 4WD version with different dimensions.
 
Originally Posted By: BrianF
Now to be fair, my truck had the 545RFE trans, not sure what unit yours has. It is the same trans as the 6 speed but not the 8 speed. What I found when I pulled the pan was no debris, the usual magnet sludge but overall it was very nice. In fact if I had to do it again, I would skip the filter change and just do a full fluid exchange. Same with the rear diff. The reason I pulled the diff cover was to inspect the gears as I was towing very, very heavy and wanted to do a visual and ensure I was not destroying anything.

Another of the issues I ran into was the fact that my truck was filthy. There was caked mud/dirt all over the chassis. I tried to knock as much off as I could but it definitely made this job harder.

Don't flush the diff with brake clean, it wont gain you anything. Just do a basic drain and fill. If you feel there is more debris in there that should be removed, do a short run on new oil and then drain/fill again. I did a drain/fill and then a year later I did another with the cover off. The thing was spotless.



I think it was my 97 Sierra that I did the diffs on and like then, I used Brake clean, just like this vid, to get all the extra gunk/dirt out. (Watch at 2:05)
With the fluid cost and the required effort to do this job, (no hoist, etc) I don't plan on doing it again until it is required so that is also why I want it nice and clean in there, but, like I mentioned above, it will be a game time decision.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9YjNwVe_NVE

My truck is the 6sp as well. 2013 Ram Bighorn quad cab 4x4 with 3.55 LSD gears.
 
Originally Posted By: Nyogtha
Originally Posted By: irv
I was watching this other Colesfixitright video about doing a transmission fluid change and I was surprised to see another filter in there just like an oil filter.
Is this the norm just on these trucks or do a lot of other manu's trucks/vehicles now have these?
I see he only uses transmission silicone/sealant on the pan, not the supplied gasket.
Got to hand it to this guy for doing everything on a creeper on the floor.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3Be-gYhshY


Two filters is the standard design for this particular transmission through several model numbers: one pan filter and one spin-on canister filter internal to the transmission case.

https://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/545RFE.html

Several board members have modified the spin-on filter to something high efficiency, both internal to and external to the transmission case.

The only thing I dislike is Mopar's use of RTV for the transmission pan gasket. Fortunately there are plenty of aftermarket filter pan gaskets available, often included in a filter kit. I avoid the cork gaskets but have had good performance with the fiber gaskets included in kits from ATP and one Parts Master kit I have included a rubber gasket.

Be careful to make sure you get the correct pan filter for yor transmission; there's a 2WD version and a 4WD version with different dimensions.



Great info, Nyogtha. Thank you.
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I am still debating whether to tackle/do this job myself in my driveway or take it to my buddies shop in Bowmanville? It will depend how busy he is and what day of the week he can get me in?
Thinking about it, if he isn't too busy, I may just do everything in the spring? Winter tires off, summers on, diff fluid changes, tranny fluid change, transfer case fluid change and plugs?
It won't be cheap but it will be cheaper/easier than anybody else, so, if he is not busy, I may just choose to help him out $ at the same time?
 
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