Amsoil 10w40 Atv/Utv oil? Red cap

[kawie_guy]

Bought some of this oil this summer to run in my Kawie atv. My atv puked it all up into the airbox from the crankcase vent. Never had any other oil do this before, and I've tried a dozen or so (including Amsoil Metric 10w-40 blue cap).
Anyone else have this happen with this oil?

 

[Linctex]

Originally Posted By: kawie_guy
My atv puked it all up into the airbox from the crankcase vent.


Not the oil's fault....

Severe blow-by increases crankcase pressure to make this happen.

Cylinder bore/ring problems.

 

[krismoriah72]

http://www.kawieriders.com/forum/kawasak...e-force-11.html

From V Force John..a kawi engine guru..

from my experiences and motors Ive rebuilt that have used synthetic like mobil1, amsoil, royal purple. the wear in the motor isn't caused by bad oil. I believe the oil runs too thin when hot and can find its way to cavitation, or find it's way past the oil bearing on the left of the crankshaft.

I had a guy JUST LAST WEEK!! member from on here. he came up to buy ANOTHER crankshaft. his machine was NOT abused, its stock and in amazing shape. he didn't head the warning about using royal purple and it cost him another crankshaft.

on the other hand.

a 730cc motor I built back in 2005 (yes 7 years old) raced me with my can am 1000 and BEAT ME. this motor is running rotella 15-40 and was a race bike for GNCC and AGP NEVER FAILED YET!! and still runs strong or stronger than the day I dynotuned it.


ask yourself. spend $$$$$$ on the expensive snake oils. or buy a cheap [censored] gallon of rotella 15-40 and prevent this.

you can think, do and believe what you want.

 

[dave123]

Originally Posted By: krismoriah72
http://www.kawieriders.com/forum/kawasak...e-force-11.html

From V Force John..a kawi engine guru..

from my experiences and motors Ive rebuilt that have used synthetic like mobil1, amsoil, royal purple. the wear in the motor isn't caused by bad oil. I believe the oil runs too thin when hot and can find its way to cavitation, or find it's way past the oil bearing on the left of the crankshaft.

I had a guy JUST LAST WEEK!! member from on here. he came up to buy ANOTHER crankshaft. his machine was NOT abused, its stock and in amazing shape. he didn't head the warning about using royal purple and it cost him another crankshaft.

on the other hand.

a 730cc motor I built back in 2005 (yes 7 years old) raced me with my can am 1000 and BEAT ME. this motor is running rotella 15-40 and was a race bike for GNCC and AGP NEVER FAILED YET!! and still runs strong or stronger than the day I dynotuned it.


ask yourself. spend $$$$$$ on the expensive snake oils. or buy a cheap [censored] gallon of rotella 15-40 and prevent this.

you can think, do and believe what you want.
It’s on the internet it has to be true omg I’d stay as far as I can away from that guy.

 

[cronk]

I've been running it in my Yamaha Timberwolf for a year and a half or so, no consumption or issues.
Actually seems to have the smoothest auto clutch engagement of any oil I have tried.

 

[kawie_guy]

Originally Posted By: Linctex
Originally Posted By: kawie_guy
My atv puked it all up into the airbox from the crankcase vent.


Not the oil's fault....

Severe blow-by increases crankcase pressure to make this happen.

Cylinder bore/ring problems.


Yes, but why would only this one oil puke it up?

 

[kawie_guy]

Originally Posted By: dave123
Originally Posted By: krismoriah72
http://www.kawieriders.com/forum/kawasak...e-force-11.html

From V Force John..a kawi engine guru..

from my experiences and motors Ive rebuilt that have used synthetic like mobil1, amsoil, royal purple. the wear in the motor isn't caused by bad oil. I believe the oil runs too thin when hot and can find its way to cavitation, or find it's way past the oil bearing on the left of the crankshaft.

I had a guy JUST LAST WEEK!! member from on here. he came up to buy ANOTHER crankshaft. his machine was NOT abused, its stock and in amazing shape. he didn't head the warning about using royal purple and it cost him another crankshaft.

on the other hand.

a 730cc motor I built back in 2005 (yes 7 years old) raced me with my can am 1000 and BEAT ME. this motor is running rotella 15-40 and was a race bike for GNCC and AGP NEVER FAILED YET!! and still runs strong or stronger than the day I dynotuned it.


ask yourself. spend $$$$$$ on the expensive snake oils. or buy a cheap [censored] gallon of rotella 15-40 and prevent this.

you can think, do and believe what you want.
It’s on the internet it has to be true omg I’d stay as far as I can away from that guy.






Makes no sense, does it? My uoas have shown most of the conventionals I've tried have sheared down quicker than the syns. (Though nearly all of them went 30 weight from 40 regardless). In other words, if syns are snake oils, then so are conventionals.

 

[kawie_guy]

Originally Posted By: cronk
I've been running it in my Yamaha Timberwolf for a year and a half or so, no consumption or issues.
Actually seems to have the smoothest auto clutch engagement of any oil I have tried.


Thank you.
It ran well for me too. Felt just as smooth as Metric. Just put a bunch in the airbox is all.....

 

[dave123]

Overfilled??? Possibly

 

[kawie_guy]

Originally Posted By: dave123
Overfilled??? Possibly


Nope. But that does remind me of another little quirk it had. It would read higher on the dipstick when it was hot than cold. In other words, it would read at the top of the stick if I checked it right after getting back from a ride, and read half full the next morning. Every other oil I've tried was just the opposite.

 

[cronk]

That is really odd. I have heard of engines consuming one brand more than others but never one oil having blow by when other brands don't.
If you have blow by, it is usually caused be weak rings or a gouged cylinder.
For example, I had a Kohler K341 engine on a garden tractor that had bad blow by, would push oil out the breather tube to the point it left small puddles on the ground after shut down. Oil made no difference, even tried thicker 15w40 and sae 30 oils and still had the issue. Cylinder head removal revealed the cylinder has several deep scratches (appear to have been caused by dirt/sand from the previous owners lack of air filter maintenance), so this was obviously causing the blow by.

I would recommend double checking the owners manual on checking the oil level, some are very specific when to check the oil for an accurate reading.
Some want the dipstick threaded in, some want it just set in the hole and pulled back out. Some want it checked cold, some will say check it hot after sitting 5 or 10 minutes. It does make a difference.

Only other thing I can think off off hand, could the air filter be clogged or restricted in a way that engine vacuum is building up in the air box and pulling oil up the breather tube?
I just can't honestly believe you are getting blow by with one brand of oil and no blow by with another.

 

[kawie_guy]

Originally Posted By: cronk
That is really odd. I have heard of engines consuming one brand more than others but never one oil having blow by when other brands don't.
If you have blow by, it is usually caused be weak rings or a gouged cylinder.
For example, I had a Kohler K341 engine on a garden tractor that had bad blow by, would push oil out the breather tube to the point it left small puddles on the ground after shut down. Oil made no difference, even tried thicker 15w40 and sae 30 oils and still had the issue. Cylinder head removal revealed the cylinder has several deep scratches (appear to have been caused by dirt/sand from the previous owners lack of air filter maintenance), so this was obviously causing the blow by.

I would recommend double checking the owners manual on checking the oil level, some are very specific when to check the oil for an accurate reading.
Some want the dipstick threaded in, some want it just set in the hole and pulled back out. Some want it checked cold, some will say check it hot after sitting 5 or 10 minutes. It does make a difference.

Only other thing I can think off off hand, could the air filter be clogged or restricted in a way that engine vacuum is building up in the air box and pulling oil up the breather tube?
I just can't honestly believe you are getting blow by with one brand of oil and no blow by with another.


Kawasaki isn't too detailed or too fussy on checking oil. They say just to shut the engine off and wait a few minutes for the oil to drain back down. Make sure the oil is between the H and the L.

My first thought was air filter issues, but it was clean and I ran in the lead all day so I ate zero dust.

I might try that oil again with a new air filter and at cooler temps. It was about 100 degrees F the day it puked.

I came home and dumped the Amsoil atv/utv, put in a different air filter (I keep 4 Twin Airs oiled an ready at all times) and installed Rotella T6. Took the quad out the very next day so it was same temp, and no oil was in the airbox.