2017 GMC Canyon 2.8 Duramax - Delvac ESP - 5k OCI

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This is my 2nd oil change. I dumped the factory fill at 1500 miles and replaced it with a non Dexos 2 HDEO oil. This is M1 Delvac ESP, previous PAO/Ester based CJ-4 formula.

Oil has 5,000 miles on it. I’m going to shorten my cold start warm up time from 5-10 minutes to 3-5 minutes to try and improve the fuel dilution. This engine only has 6500 miles at the time of this sample, so the rings may not be fully seated as well. I don't know yet.

Sample was collected hot from the drain. For accuracy, I took a composite UO sample, meaning that I filled up a 1 gallon jug, shook it up, then filled the sample bottle.

Also worth noting that for the last 3k miles I've fueled exclusively with HVO from Propel.

What do you guys think ?

 
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3-5 minutes is still a long warm up time, I'd cut it back to 1-2 minutes or less if possible and drive slowly. Aside from that the engine is still breaking in.
 
The engine too new for a uoa to tell anything except the metals are a bit higher from break in.
 
Originally Posted By: CT8
The engine too new for a uoa to tell anything except the metals are a bit higher from break in.


These metals readings, especially the iron, are actually much lower than the few reports I've seen on this new engine, from people with higher mileage. They are using Dexos 2 oils however, and I am not.
 
Where do you live in California where you need to idle to warm up? The mountains or high desert?
 
Originally Posted By: CT8
Where do you live in California where you need to idle to warm up? The mountains or high desert?


Northern California. It is around 30 degrees F right now. I warm it up mostly to heat/cool the cab and reduce the oil pressure. Start up pressure is usually 65-70 PSI at idle, even when it's warm outside it's still really high with this oil.
 
Originally Posted By: CT8
The engine too new for a uoa to tell anything except the metals are a bit higher from break in.


+++

Run D1 to the OLM limit …
 
Originally Posted By: zeng
Isn't 5000 miles OCI too short for Delvac 1 ESP 5W40, granted car age is new ?


The purpose of the early oil change was to see how this engine handled a non spec oil and to get a baseline. Now I know about the fuel dilution which is occurring and can make some changes to my cold start routine. If I can get the fuel dilution under control see going 10k + on this oil as there is still lots of life left.
 
30F isn't really that cold. We have cold starts in my neighbourhood of down to -40F or -40C. Let it idle for a minute, and you are good to go with no more than 30% throttle until it starts to warm up. I had 1,000s of lighter duty diesels in my fleet and most got handled pretty roughly. And we kept them in service over 10 years. Oil related breakdowns were not an issue.

Just to clarify, engines and especially diesels warm up faster under load. That's why I recommend: start it, idle for a minute and then drive. Idling for a newer diesel engine with DPF and new emissions controls is a bad thing. Avoid idling as much as possible.
Our fleet had GPS trackers that flagged any idling over 3 minutes. Bad for the engine, bad for the environment and bad for the pocket book. And if you include all of our North American fleet - talking 20,000 trucks.
 
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Originally Posted By: CleverUserName
Originally Posted By: CT8
Where do you live in California where you need to idle to warm up? The mountains or high desert?


Northern California. It is around 30 degrees F right now. I warm it up mostly to heat/cool the cab and reduce the oil pressure. Start up pressure is usually 65-70 PSI at idle, even when it's warm outside it's still really high with this oil.
why do you need to reduce the oil pressure?
 
Stop the idling. These engines warm up so much faster under load.

Report looks good. FD not a huge surprise on an emissions diesel.

Beware that many manufacturers use a fake oil pressure gauge that shows a programmed reading based on rpm and engine temperature.
 
Don't diesels come with an idiot light for warm ups? As far as I know, as long as the glow plug light is off, I'm driving it. I'd idle that thing a few minutes after long loaded runs (hwy or what not) for the turbo to cool though.
Besides,
faq_oel_sae2GB.jpg
 
I believe this suggestion came from Terry Dyson back in the day. It's certainly worth a shot. Even in warmer climates, your block heater can be used for a period of time, and that will significantly reduce the "warm up" time. Of course, that's assuming you have a block heater in the first place.

In the grand scheme of things, it's meaningless, but in the OCD world of BITOG, it might accomplish what you're looking for.
 
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Stop the idling. These engines warm up so much faster under load.

Report looks good. FD not a huge surprise on an emissions diesel.

Beware that many manufacturers use a fake oil pressure gauge that shows a programmed reading based on rpm and engine temperature.


This truck has a 5th injector in the DPF so there shouldn’t be an issue with dilution during regeneration.

It has a real gauge. I can tell because the oil pressure is reading much higher than when I had the OE C3 oil in the sump.

Based on the advice gleaned here, I’ll shorten the cold start idle to 1-2 minutes. I was concerned about driving around with the oil pump pressure relief opening, but if it’s not a big deal then I’ll ignore it.
 
Should I be using any additives with HVO? I’ve been adding stanadyne (the blue label stuff) occasionally, mostly to add lubricity. Is this a good idea?

Maybe I should start a new thread with this question?
 
Originally Posted By: CleverUserName
I was concerned about driving around with the oil pump pressure relief opening, but if it’s not a big deal then I’ll ignore it.

This concern is not valid on a typical automotive engine operation.
Pressure relieving is solely to protect system components, such as filter housing/seals from bursting/leaking due to excessive system pressure.Period.
 
Expected break in wear.
Fuel dilution is not horrid at 2%. Undesirable? Sure. But not damaging.

quit idling it more than 30 seconds. Let the oil pressure stabilize from ramp up, put her in drive, and go easy.
 
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