Hole Saw Drilling Tip

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After drilling many holes with a hole saw over the years, and messing up more than a few, a huge tip is to not use a drill bit in the hole saw. Especially on thin materials, or aluminum. Drill the pilot hole separately, and use a 1/4 drill rod, or cut the shank off of a long bit installed in the arbor to guide the saw. Otherwise if using a drill bit, your pilot hole keeps getting bigger, and the saw hole keeps getting bigger and uglier too. Yesterday I cut a 4 inch hole in the lower corner of my steel garage door for a dust collector port. Now I can connect up my 3/4 horse dust collector outside to pull welding fumes, dust, etc. right outside, plus I don't have to listen to it. There is a plastic blast gate attached on the outside of the door I got from Menard's for $5.

 
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Originally Posted By: Kira
Grandpa raccoon can't fit through that! Wadda you, anti-family?


Chipmunks, squirrels, and weasels will be A-OK!!!
 
Good idea! I've clamped a sacrificial piece of plywood to thin stuff to act as a guide as well. This way you can cut partial circles or bites.
 
Originally Posted By: IndyIan
Good idea! I've clamped a sacrificial piece of plywood to thin stuff to act as a guide as well. This way you can cut partial circles or bites.


Which is also a great tip for when you need to re-drill for a larger hole!

I think the best hole saw tip I've used (particularly when drilling wood), is to drill a few holes around the edge of the hole to allow chips to fall.

https://www.familyhandyman.com/tools/saws/choose-the-right-hole-saw-for-your-project/view-all/
 
Originally Posted By: Traction
Yesterday I cut a 4 inch hole in the lower corner of my steel garage door for a dust collector port. Now I can connect up my 3/4 horse dust collector outside to pull welding fumes, dust, etc. right outside, plus I don't have to listen to it. There is a plastic blast gate attached on the outside of the door I got from Menard's for $5.


Good tip but why would you drill a through hole in a door that goes up and down. Sooner or later you are going to A) get sick of disconnecting hoses to open the door, or B) forget about it and open the door with hoses still attached and pull it apart, with possible damage.
 
Originally Posted By: another Todd
Originally Posted By: Traction
Yesterday I cut a 4 inch hole in the lower corner of my steel garage door for a dust collector port. Now I can connect up my 3/4 horse dust collector outside to pull welding fumes, dust, etc. right outside, plus I don't have to listen to it. There is a plastic blast gate attached on the outside of the door I got from Menard's for $5.


Good tip but why would you drill a through hole in a door that goes up and down. Sooner or later you are going to A) get sick of disconnecting hoses to open the door, or B) forget about it and open the door with hoses still attached and pull it apart, with possible damage.

It's for occasional use, and the hoses just slip on. I'll use it for welding projects, or painting small parts inside during cold weather. I didn't want to go through the sidewall, but I could have. Other than that just remember to unhook if needing to open the door. I am more worried about opening the door with the rear hatch of my Tahoe open.
 
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I cut a hole where there should have been a factory subframe bushing for the rear of my Genesis Coupe last summer. Installed a factory bushing. The subframe was stamped steel and quite hard. There was already somewhat of a hole there. But I used the plywood backer board and also figured out to get rid of the bit and used a cut off bolt for the guide.

The hole saw wandered a bit but the OE hole was in a recessed area and that kind of contained the run out. It turned out good as it also thinned the steel and in the end pushed it out to for some sort of a flange.

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^ That's cool but did Hyundai just forget that step? Hole guy called in sick?
lol.gif
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
^ That's cool but did Hyundai just forget that step? Hole guy called in sick?
lol.gif

It's speculated that the motor mounts are so squishy and allow so much movement they had to just use three bushings to hold the rear subframe in it could move with the motor. It sure made a major difference in planting the rear end when cornering.
 
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
[It's speculated that the motor mounts are so squishy and allow so much movement they had to just use three bushings to hold the rear subframe in it could move with the motor.

Read 3 times, still can't parse this.
 
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