frame rust

[donjuers]

Originally Posted By: Oldtom
I Fluid Filmed an older Toyota Tacoma with the Kellesport pro gun specifically designed for Fluid Film. I paid about $120 for the gun and nozzles and the entire job took only a few hours. The great advantage of the Kellesport gun is the 36 inch flex nozzle. I was able to snake the nozzle into every frame hole, pull the trigger and pull it out slowly. The gun left a super heavy coat of fluid film INSIDE the box frame. This may be less critical in a truck with a C channel frame. Fluid Film can be applied over existing rust with no surface prep, just spray yearly if you live in a road salt area. Quick, easy, cheap ( $45 per gallon ) Sorry if I sound like a salesman for fluid Film, the stuff flat out works.

But wait, there's more!

Once you have the pro spray gun, you can rust proof vehicles for extra cash. One gallon will do 2 vehicles.

You got ripped off big time I sell the same gun kit for $84.00 and gallons for $39.99 Valley truck in Cleveland

 

[maxdustington]

Originally Posted By: andyd
Originally Posted By: Ducked
I use sunflower oil mixed with motor oil as a cavity spray. I wouldnt personally use used motor oil because it is carcinogenic/teratogenic and it will contain acids, though it'll probably still work.

Fluid film may be better, dunno.

For surface treatment of rusty metal I use a flattened beer can as a grinding disk, with sunflower oil as a binder after initial rust removal. Seems to work quite well.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3864753/Coke_Can_for_Brake_Drums#Post3864753
When we cleaned out the family homestead, I snagged a 1/2 gallon jug of linseed oil. Linseed oil dries to an airtight coat. Away from the elements. it is great for coating interior voids to prevent condensation leading to rust through. It works well enough on framework and framework repairs on the Rat to to make it worthwhile. The cons to linseed oil is that it takes forever to dry. After I used a knotted wire wheel in a grinder to remove the scaled, I brushed on a 1st coat of thinned oil. From then on, the last step of every repair session was to add another coat . I stopped after 5 or 6 coats


I believe boiled linseed oil (BLO) dries faster. I coated a vise with it, it works pretty well and once dried you can paint over it.

 

[Ducked]

Originally Posted By: maxdustington
Originally Posted By: andyd
Originally Posted By: Ducked
I use sunflower oil mixed with motor oil as a cavity spray. I wouldnt personally use used motor oil because it is carcinogenic/teratogenic and it will contain acids, though it'll probably still work.

Fluid film may be better, dunno.

For surface treatment of rusty metal I use a flattened beer can as a grinding disk, with sunflower oil as a binder after initial rust removal. Seems to work quite well.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3864753/Coke_Can_for_Brake_Drums#Post3864753
When we cleaned out the family homestead, I snagged a 1/2 gallon jug of linseed oil. Linseed oil dries to an airtight coat. Away from the elements. it is great for coating interior voids to prevent condensation leading to rust through. It works well enough on framework and framework repairs on the Rat to to make it worthwhile. The cons to linseed oil is that it takes forever to dry. After I used a knotted wire wheel in a grinder to remove the scaled, I brushed on a 1st coat of thinned oil. From then on, the last step of every repair session was to add another coat . I stopped after 5 or 6 coats


I believe boiled linseed oil (BLO) dries faster. I coated a vise with it, it works pretty well and once dried you can paint over it.


I bought some boiled linseed in Australia for this use and have used it a little on the topside but dunno where I put it.

Generally I don't think slow setting is much of an issue with the underbody, and since it gives the stuff a chance to soak in it may actually be an advantage. Topsides faster setting would be an asset, and if I knew where to buy some here in Taiwan I'd try an alkyd resin in that role.

 

[Ducked]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Weapon of choice for the United State Navy. I spent a lot of time with working with them.

Needle gun. Probably get into pits quite well, but a bit too rough for a lot of car steel, maybe OK for a truck frame.

Anyway, I don't have air. There's this electric drill attachment, but 155 quid is approximately infinity more expensive than an empty beer can, which also makes metallic paint.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Universal-SDS-Needle-Scaler-15/dp/B01E07R574

I have sometimes used a bit of SWR (Steel Wire Rope) shoved in a tube. If you get the rotation direction right it unlays and jams in the tube, making a narrow wire brush you can get into corners with.